I would try the sin oil and if you dont have any leaks appear or start burning oil youll be fine. Then if you find need to go back to conventional oil then there is no problem with that at all. The biggest thing about the sin oil is it is so then & flows so easy that if yo have a small leak it will leak worse, and the same goes for the rings if they dont hold good then they will do worse with the sin oil. Also if your engine is loose (bearing/pistons) you will get more noise because the parts will be able to move in the slack easier with the sin oil. The only problem I have seen with switching back after using sin oil is the leak problem, sometimes if it causes a leak to leak more it will washout/clean around the leak area and it may leak even after the change back because it washed out some buildup that was helping it not leak.



The best oil I have ever used is the Joe Gibbs racing line of oil. But it is not cheap but they do have some that is resonable and still top quality.

http://www.willyscarbs.com/

You have to go to the On Line Store after you get to the link & then at the bottom of the page you see the link for the oil. Oil like this is probable more than most want to purchase but it is great oil. These guys have access to the best products and know what works & what dont, this has allowed them to formulate the best oils & additives for lasting and less wear. It simply works, just be sure you get oil for your needs and not something that is for breakin oil or something made for Dyno runs and such. And if you do have a loose engine they have the sin oil formulated to work with that also.


Jess

Never used it, but for the record it's orderable by most parts stores (anywhere that goes through Arrow Speed warehouse). My favorite local parts store is O'Reilly's, and I know they can even get it directly through their own warehouse, which is faster (1-2 business days) and cheeper than Arrow Speed. All depends on how far in advance you plan your oil changes.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

I have never used it but I know it is a little on the $$$ side, higher than most synthetics.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

That's actually not quite true. Usually you won't have an immediate or catastrophic problem, but there is absolutely nothing guaranteeing compatibility between any two sets of engine oil chemistry. Many of the additives don't play well with one another, and while your car won't blow up or stop running, it's very easy to seriously damage the anti-sludge, anti-oxidation, anti-foam, detergent and/or anti-scuff properties when you mix different oils.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If you want to spend the money, time and effort to collect data on special-order Doctor Mo-Jo's Miracle Super Synthetic Engine Oil, go for it, but if you don't do that, you're either shooting in the dark, taking advertising claims at face value (marketeers never lie or exaggerate, right?) or taking somebody's word for it.

If you don't want engine oil study to be your new hobby, buy a reputable national brand and be done with it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Once you decide on a good product, the availability can be an issue. I used to buy Redline in 5 gallon pails at fleet pricing and just kept a stock of it around. Lately I have just been ordering from Summit. They carry Royal purple as well. I have never used it but heard good things about it. Myself I stick with what I know works unless there is some compellimg reason to change.

I just can't see messing with wait times and shipping costs for engine oil of all things.

But that's just me.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well at Summit you pay a flat 9.95 handling fee for whatever you order. I try to get stuff for projects all at once and add anything special like the
Redline to the order. It just shows up at my work and I don't have to go shopping. Having said that, this is a slant 6 forum. Ours has 117,000 miles on it and gets Valvoline 10-30 or 10-40. I don't see any advantage for it at this point to go synthetic. I'll just change it every 3000 miles. If you are going to drive across the desert in the 120 degree summer maybe put in some fresh 20-50 just for the trip. My 65 dart had a 273 and was on mobil-1 when I inherited it and had been since the stuff came out, so I kept it that way, until I put in a new engine at 190,000 something miles. Our 2001 nissan gets the redline on the 10,000 mile interval. It's paid for and we plan on keeping it for awhile. I want to keep the engine clean inside and it is always in the heat and traffic with the AC on. I would be changing the oil in it all the time otherwise. When you really need a good synthetic is with a turbocharged engine. It saves the turbo and they destroy normal oil pretty quickly.

I am a real fan of the Amsoil. Specificaly the Series 2000 0W-30. This is the only synthetic oil I have knowledge about. This Series is API certified, however this does not mean others are not certified, I just don't know. Just scaning down the product list I did not find one on the first 4 pages that was not API certified. Moving on.
The idea that an engine may leak or leak more when using a synthetic. I have heard it both ways. My results in the area are as follows: 94 nissan Altima dripping between 8 - 10 drops on my driveway nightly. Changed over to Amsoil. Leaked more for the first month and than tapered off to 1 drop every few days. The Amsoil people will tell you that the old seals are hard and the Amsoil conditions the seals and softens them back to a condition that is more like what they were when new. My test makes me believe them.
Fuel economy: 02 van Express 2500 HD work van. Started using Amsoil at 5000 miles. At this time there were no ladder racks or ladders on this van. Fuel mileage was checked on every tank and came in at 10.5 MPG. Changed to Amsoil in the engine and was know getting 11.5 MPG. At 20,000 miles changed trans fuild to Amsoil and increased to 13MPG. At 30,000 miles added ladder racks and ladders and mileage dropped to 10.5.
For me the oil pays for its self. This van know has 109000 miles on it and still runs great. I stopped checking mileage at 60K It was always them same.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

One more thing. Visocity. Conventional oils thin out quick as temp rises. Synthetic hold there visocity through a wider temp range. Just because you can pour in a quart in 3 seconds doesn't mean its very thin oil and won't hold up to the pounding. Hot conventional oil will drain out of an oil pan just as fast as hot synthetic.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Claims like this are somewhere between misleading and irresponsible. There are too many variables across the mileage checks you've listed, let alone those variables you haven't discussed (ambient temperature, seasonal fuel formulation changes, driving conditions, speeds and routes, and more). There are not two miles per gallon to be picked up by switching to synthetic automatic trans fluid, period. That's a simple matter of physics and math: If there were, the transmission would be dissipating enough energy to turn into a molten heap of slag under the vehicle.

Fortunately for the bottom line of companies like Amsoil (also Slick-50, PIAA, the makers of all those miracle "gas saver" products, the Splitfire spark plug people, the Bosch spark plug people, etc.), the human mind is wired so as to perceive patterns where none exist, to be susceptible to the power of suggestion, and to justify actions that might not make sense if they were subjected to rigourous, scientific scrutiny. It might easily be called the Slick 50 Effect: "I just paid $40 for a bottle of Slick-50...of course my engine runs smoother and quieter and gets 3 more miles per gallon, I checked!"

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

There is no power of sugestion going on here. Unforunetly I don't still have the mileage note book for this van, but it would show the exact mileage for a 3 year period. Winter months a little better.(.5 at the most) Here in Florida the weather is not as extreme as some places so my testing would be more accurate because of this.
By the way the van was bought in October so the first 5000 miles were winter miles. These would have been better MPG readings. The trans fuild change is the most convincing to me. One tank and the 20 before it was 11.5 +- .5 and the next 20 tanks were 13 +- .5.
As for the transmission turning into a pile of slag? I don't know. If I run my tire pressure low I'll lose 2 MPG but I don't see my tires bursting into flames.
The fact is for me it works and I don't feel that it is irresponsible to state it so.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I have a hard time finding Pensoil 10w30 sometimes. I figure either Jiffy Lube is buying it all up, NAPA doesn't keep enough in stock or so damn many people are buying.

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The Old Goat '83 D150 225-2

AKA Ice Titan

There is. Remember, everyone's absolutely sure they're not influenced or affected by advertising—fact is, we all are. Including you.
Well, no, because new engines get poorer mileage before they're bedded-in.
Physics and math. If you don't believe in 'em, you'll believe anything.
Heat dissipation in tires is not the same as heat dissipation in transmissions.
That's fine, but it doesn't necessarily mean it's factual.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok i wasnt going to jump in here and been here before. One of our racers that was a Dupont lubercation engineer told me and Dale Rose at the track why syntectic oil works better. His claim is it can put more volumn of oil over the surface faster than mineral oil and will run cooler. Sounded good to me. I asked at our local dirt track round de rounders what they use 90 per cent use syntectic most Mobil !. This is what i use in my race car and have raced it for four years no oil issues. I know it is not a daily driver but it is in my wifes 2005 Trailblazer and no issues. I know but that is what she wanted could not talk her in to a Magnum. But she lets me race. Thanks Ron Parker




It Aint Over Until I Win