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Wet sleeving a 64 block
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20706
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Author:  Ron Parker [ Tue Nov 14, 2006 3:08 pm ]
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When Gary Bruner built my engine, we bored it 100 thousandths over and hit a sand crack or something and had to sleeve the number 3 cylinder. He was worried about distortion with such thin walls so we hard blocked it. We have had no problems in three years. Of course I know this is a race engine, not a street engine, which you could not do. Thanks Ron Parker :D


It Ain’t Over Until I Win

Author:  slantedview [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:33 am ]
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Wow! Didn't mean to stir up all this.
That is what this site is for. To stir the pot and see what we have for supper. Many ideas are better then one.
And it can bring out more ideas when it stirs the thoughts of others.


Jess
How true. Found a sleeve/piston combo that may work. The sleeve is flanged at the top for deck stability and the sleeve OD is 3.95", which will fit nicely on a 3.98" bore center and may leave quite a bit of column support between cylinders 2-3 and 4-5 since they are on a 4" bore center. I will wind up with a 94mm (3.70") bore which means that if I want a 273 I will have to stroke the poor thing to 4.225". May try to use 360 valves to help out the breathing. The block goes to the shop on the 29th for a couple test bores so I can order sleeves. I'll keep you posted and thanks again for all the input. :)

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 8:58 am ]
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Now this is something I've always thought would be fun, to be able to put "273" badges on the car and tell people "Oh, yeah, it's got a 273 in it"...and then lift the hood to show the slant-6. If you do this, you gotta (just gotta!) put "273" air cleaner decals on it, too!

Author:  Dart270 [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 4:44 pm ]
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Or, you could make it 270 ci and put it in a Dart 270. I get asked by non-Mopar heads if my Darts have a 270 engine all the time...

Lou

Author:  slantedview [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 5:16 pm ]
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Now this is something I've always thought would be fun, to be able to put "273" badges on the car and tell people "Oh, yeah, it's got a 273 in it"...and then lift the hood to show the slant-6. If you do this, you gotta (just gotta!) put "273" air cleaner decals on it, too!
Would you settle for Super 225 and Charger 225 air cleaners on a twin turbo, EFI, 225 with the Offy dual carb manifold? That's next. If you will tell me where to order 273 decals, I'll be glad to put 'em on the air cleaners. :twisted:

Author:  LUCKY13 [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 5:51 pm ]
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Now this is something I've always thought would be fun, to be able to put "273" badges on the car and tell people "Oh, yeah, it's got a 273 in it"...and then lift the hood to show the slant-6. If you do this, you gotta (just gotta!) put "273" air cleaner decals on it, too!
Would you settle for Super 225 and Charger 225 air cleaners on a twin turbo, EFI, 225 with the Offy dual carb manifold? That's next. If you will tell me where to order 273 decals, I'll be glad to put 'em on the air cleaners. :twisted:

This is doable. I think that two webbers with mech linkage would be the best way to go about it. And the air coming from both turbos needs to be mixed before going to the carbs to give equal pressure for both. I know there is a balance chamber in the intake but it needs this before the carbs to have equal flow. The only thing is you can just about pay for a EFI system for what the webbers and intake will cost. Although the duels will look cooler. But if your going twins I would assume you intend to push it and the fuel delivery to each cylinder will be important. Although the duels is going to probably be the best for this instead of a single 4 barrel because of the distrabution problems in the 4 barrel intakes. It sounds like a fun project though.


There is a new EFI system coming out this spring that I am sure a lot of people will be interested in because of its simplisity of instalation. How good it truly works I dont know but it will bolt onto a four barrel intake just like a carb and even looks like a carb. It is self tunning for up to 1200hp and will be easy for anyone to have EFI. How much this will cost I dont know either. I dont think I would use it until some others have proven its ability but if it does what they say it will be real good for the people who are not willing to tune & fabricate a system for there car. It is truly Plug & Play.


http://www.retrotekspeed.com/


Jess

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Thu Nov 23, 2006 5:52 am ]
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Looks to me, like a fancied up throttle body system. The manifold is still wet, and if you have a poor flowing manifold, you will still have problems. I think I would let someone else do the real world testing.

Author:  dakight [ Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:03 am ]
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Looks to me, like a fancied up throttle body system. The manifold is still wet, and if you have a poor flowing manifold, you will still have problems. I think I would let someone else do the real world testing.
It's a compromise at best. I'm wondering how difficult it would to adapt the Mopar Performance MPFI retrofit system for the Jeep. The 2 motors are similar in displacement so with a little ingenuity it should be doable, but I don't have any details for sure. The MP system is still well north of $2000.00 though.

Author:  LUCKY13 [ Thu Nov 23, 2006 10:28 am ]
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Looks to me, like a fancied up throttle body system. The manifold is still wet, and if you have a poor flowing manifold, you will still have problems. I think I would let someone else do the real world testing.

It's a compromise at best. I'm wondering how difficult it would to adapt the Mopar Performance MPFI retrofit system for the Jeep. The 2 motors are similar in displacement so with a little ingenuity it should be doable, but I don't have any details for sure. The MP system is still well north of $2000.00 though.

Charrlie_S, you are probably right. But the company claims it to perform beyond this. But we know how this goes. On a V8 engine it would probably be pretty sweet. But most guys don’t want the hassle of doing a good EFI and want to get a carb system to a proper level of performance. It will have its market that will chose this route if it performs as it should. But the /6 and it uneven cylinder distribution is a problem when it come to high horsepower apps. But this would give better cylinder-to-cylinder fuel than a carb would I think because of the better-mixed air & fuel. When I first looked at this I thought Holley Pro inJection. But they claim it has something that makes it more than a TBI can offer. I don’t see how, but I guess they could have something up their sleeve. But the Electronics side of the system is what I think will attract a lot of people into buying it. A system that is self-tuning, if it tunes itself good, many will jump on this.


Dakight - The Mopar MPFI would be a waste of money IMHO. I believe it could be made to work, but, for the money you could have a complete stand-alone system that is fully adjustable. It would cost a little more depending on what level of HP you were going to go for but not more than this system if you were going for high HP. The Mopar system is not adjustable. Heck, you could do a MegaSquirt system with everything even cheaper than this and it would be fully adjustable. I think a lot of the /6 guys have a problem with EFI because there is not much out there for the engine as far as EFI and stuff made to work with the Mopar & /6. This will change soon. And there will be complete EFI systems for the slant that will allow someone to have a system and not have to hunt up all the stuff and mod it to make it work, including intake, fuel system & wiring harness, maybe even as soon as February of next year. It is being worked on as we speak.

Jess

Author:  slantedview [ Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:40 am ]
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Time out. We're getting off in another direction here. Let me tell you what is going on in my devious mind. The reason I want a 273 slant is because I need somewhere close to 4.6 liters. I want to use 2 Holley/Weber progressive 2 barrels on an Offy twin carb intake. Since these were originally used on 2-2.3 liter engines, I need to build an engine in the 4-4.6 liter range because I am too lazy to spend all that time fiddling with the carbs just to get it to run. I'd rather start it up and fine tune it. This engine will be my daily driver, so it will be normally aspirated and cammed for grunt. I doubt it will ever see the far side of 4500RPM. It is going in a 66 Valiant 200 4 door that I am going to swap from 3 on the tree to OD 4 speed. It already has 3.55 gears.
The turbo motor will be for fun and I was planning on using Neon turbos, injectors, throttle bodies, etc. with a modified Offy twin carb intake. Howell Automotive is right up the road from here and they built what is currently the fastest Neon out there. This engine is going in a 63 2 door post with a T56 six speed, and needless to say, that is a bit in the future right now.
Thanks for all the input, and I hope this will clear some things up. The block goes to the machine shop in 5 days and I hope I to have pics posted in 6 or 7 days.

Author:  slantedview [ Sat Dec 02, 2006 7:35 am ]
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FWIW, the block is in the shop as we speak for cleaning, magnaflux, and one bore is being taken out to 3.91", 5 1/2" deep. Had a little trouble getting Ray to understand what I was trying to do until I said, "Like a diesel". Good machinists are a quirky bunch. If you bring them an automotive job, their mind is fixated on automotive only. If you want to do something outside the box, they are going to fight you tooth and nail and if you persist, they will tell you they can't do it and stomp off. Sound familiar? Dad was a machinist for 40 some years, and that's how he is. The block was a little late getting to the shop, but there were some things I had to do to keep dad on the green side of the dirt for a little while longer. Should have a hole bored and pics up Tuesday or Wednesday. :wink:

Author:  slantedview [ Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:26 am ]
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Well, we have a hole. LA Sleeves is gonna hate me when they see the order form for the sleeves. At 5 1/2" deep there is an inch of cylinder wall left to serve as a spigot. Looks like the combo will be custom sleeves, 22RE Toyota 94mm flat top pistons, and since I can't find a set of 198 rods, H beam flathead Ford rods by Eagle. I've decided to go ahead and stroke it to 4.25". Since Ray has an 8BA in the shop for rebuilding, he can grind the rod throws to fit the flathead rod when he strokes the crank. If my calculator is right, I'll wind up with a 274 and when people ask if it's really a 273 (found the stickers), I can say, "Nah, it's a little bigger than that". :wink:

Author:  LUCKY13 [ Sun Dec 10, 2006 2:07 pm ]
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Thats getting pretty darn big. If you can get some pics of this in action. I would love to see the block after machining & before the sleeve is installed. Good Luck


Jess

Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Tue Dec 12, 2006 9:18 am ]
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I'd definitely would love to see pictures of that, sounds like the setup I'd like to build.

Author:  slantedview [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 8:07 am ]
Post subject:  Thanks Guys, couldn'ta dunnit without ya.

Thanks for all the ideas and info you guys have been dishing out on this forum. That's what got me wondering.
As this is written, Ray is busily removing large amounts of cast iron. The specs are: 3.60" the entire length of the cylinder, 3.91" for 6 inches, 4.21" for .250". This will accept a flanged sleeve 7" long with a spigot on the bottom that is 1" long, 3.604" OD, 3.40" ID. That will leave half an inch for the sleeve to make the transition to 3.95" OD and 3.70" ID. The flanges at the top will be 4.25" OD and .255" thick. They will have to be machined to nest, but I will have a minimum of .280" sealing surface between the bores. Reckon it'll work?
In case you're wondering, my SD card reader forgot how to read. Once I get that figured out, I get to tackle posting pics (oh joy). :roll:

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