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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 7:02 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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I'm glad the carb rebuild solved your problem. So check out the wiring though. If you are losing voltage there, then you are losing gas mileage also.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 7:08 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
i had a carb rebuild done, and my truck has been running good since i picked it up today, so i'm crossing my fingers, the lights do get dim at low rpm however, and a service manual is on the way.

Dim lights at idle are pretty typical.....

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 10:47 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 7:18 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Car Model:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... ghts.shtml


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 4:52 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
The dim lights are typical because it is typical on these old cars to have high resistance in all the charging and ignition wiring, and connectors. The bulkhead connectors are a major problem here as they have been out in the elements on the outside for years. All wiring and connectors are 40 years old in many cases. My gas mileage went from 13 (ouch) to 18 when I replaced all the blue wires in the harness, and cleaned up the bulkhead connectors. The lights no longer dimmed. That included the wires to and from the voltage regulator. It is well worth looking into. The difference between a great car and an OK car is often a bunch of little things like this.

Later on, I did the performance upgrades discussed in the link posted here. It does work, but you can improve things alot just by cleaning up what you have from the factory. I do think the biggest stealth culprit here is the factory Ameter. I bypassd this completely in my car, and ran the charge wire directly from the alt to the battery, and installed a relay system for the lights. All this made it better, but the biggest improvement came from the very first step, which was simply replacing the old stock wires and connectors.
Sam

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Last edited by Sam Powell on Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 4:59 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
I was thinking of the older low-amp alternators with a 600rpm idle being the problem................ (i.e. you're fine once moving)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:06 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
Emsvital, I think you are right. Apparently, these old Mopar alternators will not keep up with wipers, blower motor and lights at idle, regardless of the rating. The just don;t work well at low RPM. I switched to a GM 1 wire for that reason. But, if you are getting a voltage drop in your ignition wires, you will not get good performance from a Mopar electronic ignition regarless of the RPM.

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