Slant Six Forum :: Motorcraft 2100

Why are you looking on the Holley site for Motorcraft parts. Go to Ponycarbs.

You will want a 3 stage valve from a '75 Jeep with a 304. I am also useing the stock '75 Jeep jets. Some of the Jeep sites recommend that you go 2 steps leaner, and that's with mild 258's. The fuel mixture is just fine on my basically stock 225.

Make sure the carb has "1.08" stamped on the side. A smaller number is OK, a bigger number may not be. Remember Ford used these carbs on everything from 4 bangers to the 460 and the "1.08" is the venturi size in inches. That is what I am using. The "1.21" is the next lager size and are fairly common on F-150s with the 351(w/m)/352/360 engines. For adjustments settings after a rebuild, use the AMC 290/304 settings.

Also I would suggest the electric choke. The water heated version doesn't get hot enough to open the choke fully. Well, eventually it does, but it will take a long time. Also there is really no "ported" vaccum port on this carb like the BBD's. So I run my car without the vacuum advance. The Jeep guys report better results with a Transdapt adapter over the Mr Gasket one. The bottom of the Motorcraft is not the same as a Holley 2300 so they can have vaccum leaks. I made my own adapter so I didn't have that problem.

I really like the MC2100 I have on my engine. A noticable improvement over the BBD that I was running. Works great.

A warning about Ponycarbs, they are not performance oriented. They cater to the restoration/rebuild crowd. They will literally freak if you tell them you are using a 2100 on a \6. So, some creative parts ordering is required. Notice, the '75 Jeep reference, that is your friend, just tell them it is for a '75 Jeep CJ5 with a 304, and no you don't have the triangler model tag, and everything will go smoothly.

Author:	Highway [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 11:39 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: ok I figured it out FINALLY if you want to use this carb with an adapter plate you need this carb........ Roadrunner, what's the model difference between the two?

Author:	ROADRUNNER7169 [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:37 pm ]
Post subject:
if you look toward the top of each pic look at how the base is shaped the one on the bottom the edge hangs over the adapter and you will get a massive vacuum leak the one on the top has a narrower base and it fits the adapter with not leaks also if you plan to do this carb upgrade you need to notch the adapter to fit around the big nut that holds the 2 manifolds together BUT BE careful NOT TO TAKE TO MUCH METAL OFF i'm still trying to find my cable to my camera if I can find it I will take some pictures of it also with this carb upgrade you can use your 1 bbl throttle linkage but you do need to modify it (bend it straight and mount it on your egr valve and a slight modification to the carb)but you will need to get the lokar kick down cable if running an automatic after I get my new carb (the right one) I will post an article on the mod with pic's and all the goodies

Author:	kesteb [ Fri Feb 02, 2007 10:07 pm ]
Post subject:
I did say not to use the Mr Gasket adapter, didn't I. The potential vaccum leaks is what lead me to make my own adapter plate. A chunk of 1/2" aluminum plate works very nicely. Along with some quality time with a drill press.

Author:	ROADRUNNER7169 [ Sat Feb 03, 2007 5:36 am ]
Post subject:
if you use the mr gasket plate you can not use the carb with the bigger base you must use the smaller base so you can use the mr gasket plate but it will limit which carb you go with but if you make your own plate you can use either (I would make a plate but i'm lazy and have no time or the tools to do so) but let me know how your swap went with you custom plate cuz i'm still waiting for my new carb in the mail and I still have the rag jammed in the back

Author:	cchrishefish [ Fri Mar 06, 2020 8:00 am ]
Post subject:	Re:
Quote: Why are you looking on the Holley site for Motorcraft parts. Go to Ponycarbs. You will want a 3 stage valve from a '75 Jeep with a 304. I am also useing the stock '75 Jeep jets. Some of the Jeep sites recommend that you go 2 steps leaner, and that's with mild 258's. The fuel mixture is just fine on my basically stock 225. Make sure the carb has "1.08" stamped on the side. A smaller number is OK, a bigger number may not be. Remember Ford used these carbs on everything from 4 bangers to the 460 and the "1.08" is the venturi size in inches. That is what I am using. The "1.21" is the next lager size and are fairly common on F-150s with the 351(w/m)/352/360 engines. For adjustments settings after a rebuild, use the AMC 290/304 settings. Also I would suggest the electric choke. The water heated version doesn't get hot enough to open the choke fully. Well, eventually it does, but it will take a long time. Also there is really no "ported" vaccum port on this carb like the BBD's. So I run my car without the vacuum advance. The Jeep guys report better results with a Transdapt adapter over the Mr Gasket one. The bottom of the Motorcraft is not the same as a Holley 2300 so they can have vaccum leaks. I made my own adapter so I didn't have that problem. I really like the MC2100 I have on my engine. A noticable improvement over the BBD that I was running. Works great. A warning about Ponycarbs, they are not performance oriented. They cater to the restoration/rebuild crowd. They will literally freak if you tell them you are using a 2100 on a \6. So, some creative parts ordering is required. Notice, the '75 Jeep reference, that is your friend, just tell them it is for a '75 Jeep CJ5 with a 304, and no you don't have the triangler model tag, and everything will go smoothly.

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