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Axle shaft won't come out of 7 1/4
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21624		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  sixsignet [ Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
A wedge is a powerful tool...
Drive a wedge (cold chisel) between the end of the axle shaft and the spider gear cross shaft and that axle will pop-out. (or at least break loose enough to use one of the previously discribed methods for complete removal.
DD
Image

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in here?
Author:  slantzilla [ Sat Jan 27, 2007 6:37 am ]
Post subject: 
Yep. :D
Author:  sixsignet [ Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:38 am ]
Post subject: 
Got it.
Used big screwdriver as wedge.
It moved the axle shaft.
Used heavier slide hammer with hub puller claw.

I actually had to borrow two kits and combine parts - a Hub Puller (for the claw that fits 5-on-4 bolts) and an Axle Puller (for the HD slide hammer)

Thanks, everybody.
This bearing feels much different than the other one.

Image
Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Sat Jan 27, 2007 11:50 am ]
Post subject: 
...And "pop".... out it comes! :wink:
Quote:
This bearing feels much different than the other one.
That bearing looks like aworn-out OEM unit.
It was the rust between the outer bearing race and the housing that had it "stuck".
The good news, the rust tells you that the inner axle seal was doing it's job.
Author:  sixsignet [ Sat Jan 27, 2007 12:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
My driveline guy is off until monday.

But it looks like the weather will stay dry for several days (except for frozen fog in the AM)!

So I have time to unwind and contemplate putting it back together.

I got the seal out too.

I made an outer gasket out of 1/16" closed-cell urethane foam I had hanging around.

Is the outer gasket the reason rust got in there?

How should I treat the rusty inner surface of the tube?
Steel wool got rid of most of the surface rust, but is there something I can put on it to be a barrier between the tube and the new bearing?

Like anti-sieze?
Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Sat Jan 27, 2007 7:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
Anti-sieze or any good quality grease will do the job.
DD
Author:  sixsignet [ Mon Jan 29, 2007 11:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have some new seals on order.
I hope SKF 13418 is the right one...

I paid extra to get a Timken RWF34R bearing.

Is it good to put a little oil on the axle shaft where the oil seal rides, or is the seal supposed to be dry?
Author:  rock [ Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Howdy six, I like to use ...
Howdy sixsignet,

Understanding the perils of overdoing the treatment, I like to use a three finger brake cylinder hone inside seats that are rusted like yours. Lubricate with light oil and smooth out some before the ole steel wool deal. You can tilt the vehicle and stuff the axle tube with rags surrounding a magnet to keep poo poo out of the tube, and use brakeclean to clean afterwards from both. I also use the magnet for the steel wool hairs. That race is hardened so you won't do much more than polish it, but yours looks a tad more rusted than I would want to do with just steel wool and hand energy. Others may disagree with the hone, but works for me!
rock
'64d100
Author:  sixsignet [ Wed Jan 31, 2007 4:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
Interesting technique.
I already had the right one installed before I read it. I smeared anti-sieze on it.
I had to special order the seals. Then I destroyed one during installation.
Sat another day waiting for another special order seal.

The SKF 13418 on the right is 5/8 inch tall.
The Federal Mogul 5124 on the left is 7/8 inch tall.
(The old ones were 7/8" tall style)
So if they're both pressed fully on, the SKF 13418's lip rides about 1/4 inch farther from the wheel.
But they both fit the axle shaft.

Took it for a drive. 8)
So far it sounds good from 0-50 mph or so.

The speedo gear from the donor car is still in the glove compartment.
If this rearend is a 2.76 (I'll check b4 I change it), my '63 doesn't seem to mind.
Once I have the speedo correct, we will be going on a 50-60 mph fuel economy run.
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