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Cutting and welding a swaybar? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22364 |
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Author: | DionR [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 10:51 am ] |
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Thanks for the pic! So the hollow swaybar project did go through. And you got all six for less than the $600 Addco quoted me? Kind of figured it was a "scare him away" kind of a price. As of right now, I am going to mock it up and see what I have to do to make it work. Then I will go from there. I did find another place, in Portland, that does custom swaybars. His price was $175 for a medium complexity bar. He did hollow as well, but I don't remember the price. If I can't make it work, I will probably just go with the Portland guy. Time will tell. Thanks again! |
Author: | Bob Paulin [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 11:38 am ] |
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Quote: Quote: Quote: From what I have read, just nicking the sway bar will produce a weak spot.
I've heard that about torsion bars, but not swaybars.Hmmm...... A swaybar is basically a transverse torsion bar............ For a number of years throughout the '70s, we would weld arms onto the ends of MOPAR torsion bars and mount them transversely in the chassis of an oval-track Modified to use as a sway or anti-roll bar. Through the '80s, we heated and bent stockautomotive/truck A/R bars, and welded brackets on the ends of them. Never a problem welding onto the ends of either torsion bars or sway/anti-roll bars........ ......but, as with a leaf spring, I don't think I would cut one and try to weld it back together or attempt to weld a broken one back together. |
Author: | NewLancerMan [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 2:49 pm ] |
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dion, that price in portland doesn't sound bad. I just bought 4130 steel by the foot, and then the metal shop charged $10/bend per bar. So we had bends, so $40 labor per bar. That puts it at about $100, then the costs of the end links and bushings. are you planning on going through the K frame or around the outside? MJ |
Author: | DionR [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 4:13 pm ] |
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Quote: are you planning on going through the K frame or around the outside?
My goal is for it to look factory stock (except for the diameter ![]() Hopefully I will know more about how it looks after this weekend is over. The bar got here this afternoon, so I am hoping to get it under the car and size things up. |
Author: | kesteb [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:36 pm ] |
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I am running a stock '75 sway bar, with '75 LCAs, under my '65. No cutting necessary on the bar, some modifications on the k-member thou. |
Author: | DionR [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 11:49 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Quote: I am running a stock '75 sway bar, with '75 LCAs, under my '65. No cutting necessary on the bar, some modifications on the k-member thou.
Now that is good to hear.Thanks! |
Author: | DionR [ Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:49 am ] |
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Quote: I am running a stock '75 sway bar, with '75 LCAs, under my '65. No cutting necessary on the bar, some modifications on the k-member thou.
What are you using for endlinks? Are they severely angled?
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Author: | kesteb [ Fri Mar 30, 2007 3:29 pm ] |
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Quote: Quote: I am running a stock '75 sway bar, with '75 LCAs, under my '65. No cutting necessary on the bar, some modifications on the k-member thou.
What are you using for endlinks? Are they severely angled? |
Author: | sandy in BC [ Fri Mar 30, 2007 8:45 pm ] |
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Does anyone get the feeling early and late might be easily interchangable? |
Author: | heckshemi [ Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:40 pm ] |
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Quote:
Does anyone get the feeling early and late might be easily interchangable?
They probably are. Not only that, a B-body bar will fit a late. I installed a sway bar from a '68 B-body on a '71 Valiant at one time and it worked fine. Not sure if it would work on an early A-body though.
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Author: | kesteb [ Tue Apr 03, 2007 4:48 pm ] |
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Quote: Does anyone get the feeling early and late might be easily interchangable?
Well, cutting an welding were required to make the sway bar fit. Basically I cut a 2"x2" channel where the bar crossed the k-member and then boxed it in with 2x2x.120 square tube. I thought about doing this 25 or so years ago, but never had the time nor the equipment.
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