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Cutting and welding a swaybar?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22364
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Author:  DionR [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 10:51 am ]
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Thanks for the pic!

So the hollow swaybar project did go through. And you got all six for less than the $600 Addco quoted me? Kind of figured it was a "scare him away" kind of a price.

As of right now, I am going to mock it up and see what I have to do to make it work. Then I will go from there.

I did find another place, in Portland, that does custom swaybars. His price was $175 for a medium complexity bar. He did hollow as well, but I don't remember the price.

If I can't make it work, I will probably just go with the Portland guy. Time will tell.

Thanks again!

Author:  Bob Paulin [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 11:38 am ]
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From what I have read, just nicking the sway bar will produce a weak spot.
I've heard that about torsion bars, but not swaybars.

Hmmm......

A swaybar is basically a transverse torsion bar............

For a number of years throughout the '70s, we would weld arms onto the ends of MOPAR torsion bars and mount them transversely in the chassis of an oval-track Modified to use as a sway or anti-roll bar.

Through the '80s, we heated and bent stockautomotive/truck A/R bars, and welded brackets on the ends of them.

Never a problem welding onto the ends of either torsion bars or sway/anti-roll bars........

......but, as with a leaf spring, I don't think I would cut one and try to weld it back together or attempt to weld a broken one back together.

Author:  NewLancerMan [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 2:49 pm ]
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dion,

that price in portland doesn't sound bad. I just bought 4130 steel by the foot, and then the metal shop charged $10/bend per bar. So we had bends, so $40 labor per bar.

That puts it at about $100, then the costs of the end links and bushings.

are you planning on going through the K frame or around the outside?

MJ

Author:  DionR [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 4:13 pm ]
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are you planning on going through the K frame or around the outside?
My goal is for it to look factory stock (except for the diameter :twisted: ). So I am going though the k-frame.

Hopefully I will know more about how it looks after this weekend is over. The bar got here this afternoon, so I am hoping to get it under the car and size things up.

Author:  kesteb [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:36 pm ]
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I am running a stock '75 sway bar, with '75 LCAs, under my '65. No cutting necessary on the bar, some modifications on the k-member thou.

Author:  DionR [ Fri Mar 23, 2007 11:49 pm ]
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I am running a stock '75 sway bar, with '75 LCAs, under my '65. No cutting necessary on the bar, some modifications on the k-member thou.
Now that is good to hear.

Thanks!

Author:  DionR [ Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:49 am ]
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I am running a stock '75 sway bar, with '75 LCAs, under my '65. No cutting necessary on the bar, some modifications on the k-member thou.
What are you using for endlinks? Are they severely angled?

Author:  kesteb [ Fri Mar 30, 2007 3:29 pm ]
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I am running a stock '75 sway bar, with '75 LCAs, under my '65. No cutting necessary on the bar, some modifications on the k-member thou.
What are you using for endlinks? Are they severely angled?
I am using the stock end links. No angles, straight up.

Author:  sandy in BC [ Fri Mar 30, 2007 8:45 pm ]
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Does anyone get the feeling early and late might be easily interchangable?

Author:  heckshemi [ Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:40 pm ]
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Does anyone get the feeling early and late might be easily interchangable?
They probably are. Not only that, a B-body bar will fit a late. I installed a sway bar from a '68 B-body on a '71 Valiant at one time and it worked fine. Not sure if it would work on an early A-body though.

Author:  kesteb [ Tue Apr 03, 2007 4:48 pm ]
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Does anyone get the feeling early and late might be easily interchangable?
Well, cutting an welding were required to make the sway bar fit. Basically I cut a 2"x2" channel where the bar crossed the k-member and then boxed it in with 2x2x.120 square tube. I thought about doing this 25 or so years ago, but never had the time nor the equipment.

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