When I tore it out I thought to myself "I betcha it would run along time evan with this noise" Having another super clean and solid engine sitting there I decided to change it. Its a pretty sharp looking car so I thought it was worth the effort. If it was a beater with a heater I think I would have seen how long I could have run it. Did you strain the oil through a paint filter and see what came out of it? If its a bearing you'll know. Last time I spun a bearing almost 20 years ago that sound never went away, unlike the one your hearing.

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I'm going to get a new starter since this one was definately hitting the flywheel and see if the noise stops with that, then I'll change the oil and see if I get any metal flakes or glitter in what I drain out. I wish I could drop the oil pan without pulling the engine so I could inspect the bottom end, but that'll have to wait until I have a couple free days.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

hello,
it is not something like a rattling PCV valve , by any chance.????
mine did that when I firsr got it.a new one fixed it,quiet like a mouse.



regards,Rod

Nope it's definately not the PCV valve. I could only wish it was something that simple. Definately metal on metal.

Here are some pics I took of the flywheel after I pulled the starter. You can definately see that the teeth have been hitting something, and the damage is fresh:

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

To me that looks like its just been well used. I have read that the engine will find a couple of spots where it will stop after you shut it off. When you go to restart, the starter kicks out in the same places. I dont think that is too worn. You can see where there are teeth that have no wear.

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Excuse me, does this smell like chloroform to you?

This makes sense to me.... A cylinder coming up on compression stops the engine.


With a 6cyl engine, there should be 3 areas of the flywheel like that.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Hrmmm, that ain't comforting. Well, say it does turn out to be a spun bearing. I've never done a bottom end rebuild before, so would it be wise to rebuild the whole thing, or would I be able to take a couple days to pull it and just replace the crank and rod bearings? I'm still leary about tearing down the engine, just because I've never done it before.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

I posted a bit ago under Baaad noise. I lifted up the engine and disconnected the center link from the frame and passenger side spindle, removed the pan, removed the rod caps and checked all the rod bearings and mains from underneath the car. Its not fun, but it can be done. I ended up replacing one rod bearng due to operator error. If you find the crank is in need of turning, then I would pull the engine out. ANYWAY, thats how I check torque converter bolts.

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Excuse me, does this smell like chloroform to you?

Yeah I'm going to check my TC bolts before pulling the oil pan.....just in case that ends up being the cause of my noise issue. I think I have a good idea on how I can remove my oil pan without alot of agony, but I'll wait until I absolutely have to remove the pan before trying it.

BTW what are the TC bolts supposed to be torqued to anyway?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Discovered another symptom!

When I start up the car and let the engine idle, same as before, it sounds fine. Now though, when I push down on the brake as if I were getting ready to shift, I hear a metallic "clunk clunk clunk" that sounds almost like linkage somewhere knocking together. I though maybe it was my exhaust pipe tapping something, but there's plenty of clearance all around it.

Adding this to the other symptoms I've been having, does this help narrow anything down at all? I'm still really hoping it'll be a fairly easy fix. I don't want to pull the bottom end apart

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Where your torque converter bolts tight?
Or is there one loose bolt the torque converter is hitting.
Sounds like the torque converter is doing something odd when you put it in gear.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The noise when applying the brake happens when in park and neutral also, and only when the car isn't in motion. I haven't been able to check the bolts yet, but the plan is to do it on Monday, when I'll have a day off since I have to work this weekend (typical).

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

1) Does this car have power brakes?

2) Have you had a good look at your transmission cooler lines to see where and what they're hitting? It's always at least one "something"...themselves at one or more locations, the floor pan, etc.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yep, it's got power brakes. I took a look at my transmission cooler lines when I first heard the ticking noise, but couldn't see any spots that looked like the source for the noise.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Pull your oil filter, & then cut it apart and unwrap the paper. Look for metal specs (brass/aluminum) in the paper to indicate internal problems in the engine. If you find metal you know the engine needs to come apart.

The flywheel gears look normal, but that doesnt mean it might not have a crack in it or something, just that the ring gear is fine.


Jess