Moparmodeler,

SlantSix Dan outlined the most basic things to do, which I have tried to follow to the letter. I am trying to get 30 degrees cranked in by 2000 rpm for my tall gear ratio. Right now it's all in by 2500 rpm. I actually have 43 degrees at 2500 rpm counting the vacuum advance. I run low or mid grade and it still doesn't ping yet, so I am shooting to get all the timing in at little lower rpm. I have lots more snap compared to stock. I have about 15,000 miles on a resent rebuild and drive 128 miles a day. I track each change and log it. My Dart weighs 3500 pounds. How much does your Road Runner weigh?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

many times a post can be taken the wrong way from that intended.. I have posted some outrageously funny stuff and ,wouldn't you knowit, some poeple have actully taken it the wrong way... BTW looked up Confrey MN never heard of it before...mankato, albert Lea, new Ulm , all old memories.. Had relatives living in So dak and we drove from Waseca where I was born, to many places all around Many great childhood memories...d

Search for some of the distributor recurving messages, there are some good ones already posted.

In general, yes, more initial advance, (8-12 degrees) fast light spring for the next 14-18 degrees of mechanical (1000 to 2400 RPM) then set the heavy spring to slow the mechanical advance way down for the last 4-6 degrees and set that to happen right at your freeway RPM range. (2400 to 2800?) The total advance should be limited to appx 30 degrees total. (shorter weight - govenor slots)
Use a high travel, adjustable vacuum advance pod for best street perf.
This is a "ballpark" curve, all engine / vehicle combos need "fine tuning" to maximize.
DD

thank you for your quick reply to my question. now can somebody please tell me how to search for plug recommendations .. I tried plug , spark, spark plug, plugs, spark plugs, spark plugs? plugs? and I cannot find anything for the peanuts... i seem to remember something awhile ago about a 925 plug, but can't confirm.. Thank You dan

Spark plugs: NGK ZFR5N, remove the metal ring washer, gap to 0.040".

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The car is a 1975 with out tubes... what would be a good plug for a late head car? thank you d

Get a set of #26 Autolites and be done.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Ah, a '75, sorry, the recommendation above was for '74-down heads. Try an NGK UR5.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am running the NGK UR4/6630 plugs gapped at .040.
This is the best plug out of all the plugs I have tried to date.
Tried the Autolites and Champions. The NGK's are far better.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Yup, NGK plug quality is really, really nice.

UR4 is one step hotter than UR5. Today's fuel burns cleaner than any available "yesterday", so you can drop down a heat range or two from original spec without fouling problems, and that buys you more ping-resistance, and that lets you dial in a little more spark advance.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Is there a plug that is a range cooler for the ZFR5N?

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225 .030
.020 off the block .100 from head
Comp 264
904 Tranny
New Ebre-ting

http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j103/edrod01/

Moparmodeler,

You don't necessarily need to swap the rear end. I run a 2.76 8 3/4 posi and can go across an intersection sideways by just pressing down a little too hard.

Dan is right on about the timing gears. I think I would change them first and foremost, sort of like a heart transplant. The stock setup is very retarded. If you can't get that cam to work for you, nothing else is going to help. Once that is done I would recurve the distributor. In fact by just changing the position of spring posts (loosen the secondary spring and tighten the primary spring post will help alot). Once that is done you should notice a torque hit of about 200 ft pounds that will get your car sliding.
I would tune the accelerator pump circuit next for a healthy shot and then crank the timing up to at least 12 degrees, (I prefer 16).

These things should be key core items as well as getting the ignition system up to speed including NGK Spark Plugs.

Bolting on after market manifolds and headers won't change much if the engine isn't running correctly. Check over all of Dan's posts and answer the questions first. Then you should start to realize some of the power that is in the SL6. Once it is running at it's optimum, then you can have fun with swapping rear ends, manifolds, carbs, etc....

If you want me to post my build sheet again, let me know or I can email it.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Awesome info guys!

I wish there was a way to keep this posts in a 'subscribed' section or 'favorites' section

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1969-1/2 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-spd, Dana 60)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (4-spd, 8.75")
1973 Plymouth Duster (225, auto, 8.25")
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 2wd (5.9L, auto, Dana 60)

You can do so locally on your own machine by bookmarking the page, or you can tag it for easy access from any computer with a free del.icio.us account.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Take it from some one who has just been there, you can have all the best stuff in the world, installed right, and if the basic wiring is not up to snuff, it will run badly. learn to use a VOM to check for high resistance, and fix the various old connectors that are pulling you down.

For starters, measure the charging voltage at the alternator, and then various places along the wiring. You will very likely find a voltage drop somewhere between the alt and the ballast resister. The main line runs like this: the batt-starter relay-bulkhead connector- ameter- ignition switch, bulkhead connector-alternator. When I first got my Dart I had almost a two volt drop from one end to the other. Initial fixes reduced the drop to 1 volt. Most recent fixes eliminated virtually all voltage drop, and the car runs much better.

Sam

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