Save about 20lbs, many fewer wear/friction points in the steering linkages, should be lower effort steering for the same ratios (not sure about that one, but heard it from folks). Also, rebuilt 20:1 and 16:1 boxes are expensive compared to new racks.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That just about sums it up. The only thing I would add is improved road feel.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Still doesn't make sense to me. Can a "quality " conversion be done for under $500? I can remove 20 lbs easier. Stock wear/friction points lasred many years/miles. Steering effort is a maybe.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

If you're that worried about 20 pounds, try Jenny Craig.

In all honesty, what is 20 pounds really going to do on a street car? That will amount to less than .02 in a 1/4 mile.

I think you guys just enjoy re-inventing the wheel.

Remember, the guy who invented the wheel was a dumbass, the guy who invented the other 3 was a genius.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

This is for Project V. I am looking toward a final weight of 2400-2500 lbs with driver and 12 gals of fuel, including 100 lbs of rollcage and 17X9 wheels. 20lbs in several places adds up. If I do the fab and design myself, which I often like doing, then the only cost is the rack. I will also replace steering column with a fabbed unit for additional 15 lbs reduction.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The big deal is finding a rack narrow enough for the early A.

I found a rack short enough for a late B though......


If you take the centre link to the rack pile its pretty easy to sort out what might work....The rack has to be no longer than the centre link to preserve stock geometry.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

There is an AC Cobra rack made by Flaming River with about the right dimensions for about $300-350 new. They can also make custom rack lengths. I will check around for others...

Would be nice to find a common OEM rack, though, for replacement purposes.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

sandy, If I follow correctly,m the rack has to have the same lenght (or less) than the center link? are we talking about the piece that "connects" tie rods, pitman and idler? if this is so, I have one new OEM center link and I'll be road tripping today, thru an area where there's many junkyards. I'll see what I can come up with. OEM would be fine, so we don't have to go to the special-custom route. (Always a pain in the ass!)

would you like them assisted or manual?

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

I woould think that for the exercise we are commenting on a manual box would be the thing.

I replaced a power/draglink steering system in my bogger with a manual rack ......saved almost 50 lbs and have no trouble turning the wheels while stopped even with cut 12.50 tires.

....and thanks Dude!

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Yep, manual. Any assistance would be great!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

sorry, meant POWWR or manual. I'll research into both of them

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Referencing back to OzHemi's post, and on the question of a narrow enough rack for an A-Body,...

Oz - do you remember which model Commodore the rack came out of?

If it was an early Crumbledore, say a VB thru to VL, they were the same size vehicle as the large Vauxhaul/Opel sold Europe in the '80's.

IIRC, the Opel was available as a LHD,...

If Oz's car uses the rack from a later Dunnydore, anything post VN ('89) to almost up to current models, then the rack would be the close to the same size used in the Monaro's, sorry, Pontiac GTO's,..


PiD v4.0

You can use either rack, early or late apparently...The mounting points are different and the K frame needs to suit, but believe the over all width to be close enough that either will work (perhaps with different tie rod ends?)
That being said, from memory (it's been some years now) I think mine was a VR/VL one.. but pretty sure another mate of mine has a K frame done up and uses a VN-ish era one..

I still have a spare rack here actually that I kept and could always dig it out and measure it (Since I can't measure the one on the car at the moment )

no luck at the junkyards. Will keep on researching.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.