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/6 RSA Cuda https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24681 |
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Author: | 68barracuda [ Fri Aug 31, 2007 6:00 pm ] |
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Quote: igured so, but wasn't sure how they rigged up the rear indicators. The Australian-market cars had red brake/tail and amber indicator/reversing lamps. North-Central-South American market cars had red brake/indicator lamps and white reversing lamps. Looks like your Australian-body Valiant has the Australian-market setup; what'd they give you on your RSA '68? Guessing the lenses adjacent to the red brake/tail are amber in colour and used as indicators. Maybe they gave you separate white under-bumper reversing lamps borrowed off the US '67 Barracuda...maybe they wired up the indicators in the Australian manner so they also serve as reversing lamps...don't keep me in suspense! Laughing
oops got confused = the 68 is as per US spec red and white. the side markers are amber all round (single wire)
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Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 12:41 pm ] |
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OK, that changes things a little as regards the rear sidemarkers. If you want them to flash, you need to trigger their control relays off the front indicator feed and either the front or rear position lamp feed. If you trigger off the rear brake/indicator wire, the rear sidemarkers'll light up whenever you step on the brake during the daytime, and they'll extinguish whenever you step on the brake at night. Not what is wanted. If you want to change the '68 over to the Australian type setup with red brake/tail and amber indicator/reverse: Cut the wire we'll call "1" that runs from the brake lamp switch "A" to the turn signal switch "B". Your existing brake lamp wires at that point become your rear turn signal (only) wires. Run a new wire from the brake switch "A" side of the cut wire "1", to the rear of the vehicle to power the brake lamps. Cut the reversing lamp wire "2" downstream of the reversing lamp switch "C" ("downstream" means between the reverse lamp switch and the reverse lamps), and connect the reverse lamp switch "C" side of the wire "2" to the turn signal switch side "B" of the cut wire "1". Now you've got some wire-switching to do at the back of the car: The wire that formerly fed the bright (brake/turn) filament in your red lamps now feeds your rear turn/reverse lamp function in your white lamps, so move that wire accordingly. Connect one leg of your new brake lamp wire (which you ran from brake lamp switch to rear of car in the third step, above) to the bright-filament socket contact for the red lamp, on each side of the car. The original wires that fed the reversing lamps will not be used. |
Author: | 68barracuda [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:41 am ] |
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Quote: Laughing OK...yeah, taking a second look at the engine bay photo (the one from the manifold side) I see the large-bore vacuum hose I originally thought snaked over the rocker cover to some kind of a low-mount booster, is actually your crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose. You may want to look into moving that so it connects to the plenum area of your intake. There are several good and not-very-difficult ways to do this. Running the PCV to runner number six as you've got it tends to make #6 run very lean.
I have moved it away after i checked distribution with a Gunsons colourtuneIdling a lot smoother - had a slight pop/mis? What idling rpm , in and out of gear do you recommend with my setup? Regards Fanie |
Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:38 am ] |
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Gunson Colortune is a terrific tool. Bit of a cult-following item here, but throughout the English Commonwealth it's well known. Kerb idle, I'd shoot for around 700 to 750 in Neutral, 650 to 700 in Drive. |
Author: | 68barracuda [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 12:22 pm ] |
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Thanx - Got hold of a Equus tacho,- guys also make timing lights - has the same finish as the rest of the Barracuda's dash |
Author: | 68barracuda [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 12:27 pm ] |
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Hi - another tuning question Best timing? I have a lot of manuals, but they quite often contradict one another, and the forum has been a fantastic help so far. I salute you all! I have this nagging suspicion that the outer ring on the balancer has moved slightly - even at tdc I have no pining under hard accelaration, under hot conditions |
Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:51 pm ] |
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"No pinking" makes sense, because TDC is well retarded from where the basic timing should be set, which for a configuration like yours is probably around 5° to 7° BTDC. The outer ring (on which is located the timing mark) can slip relative to the hub, and you can check this by finding TDC on #1 (at the actual cylinder) and checking where the mark is. |
Author: | 68barracuda [ Thu Sep 06, 2007 2:46 pm ] |
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Author: | 68barracuda [ Thu Sep 06, 2007 2:49 pm ] |
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