Well fellas these are both badass rides hopefully i'll be there one day. Lemme know if anyone is coming to Florida to race i'll give somebody a run hopefully

Engine will be done soon! Converter came
Kevin

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I don't think they want to think about it

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

Well, I did think about it and here is a simple break down. I've done all the labor myself.

Just to get the turbo going it was around $2,100. I got a lot of the items off of ebay Turbo(200),Intercooler(110),Pipes(100), Carb(100), Rebuild(35), Intake(50 10 years ago),gauges(350),bonnet(175),meth injection(200),exhaust(125),fuel system(350),bat relocation(70), misc(200) and old parts/steel that I've had from other projects.

Rest of car including purchase price $3500....Tires,trans,brakes, 8 3/4,front end,free ignition,u joints...ect..more ebay stuff here

All said and done 6k-ish

Don't forget that it cost money to fill the bottle, you never have to refill a turbo (discounting parts breakage).

Now where is that "stirring the pot" emoticon?

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

I posted a complete breakdown of mine on this board before and was called a liar by Tom Drake, so I won't even go there again. Suffice to say I have about the same money as Shaker in mine though, and have gone 1.2 seconds quicker and 6 MPH faster.

No, you don't have to refill a turbo, but when you get to the power level that Shaker is at, breakage will become a huge issue trying to get the other second that I have gotten.

Breakage is an issue for me trying to go faster than I have too. Just like anything there is a learning curve, and sometimes it becomes a learning "angle".

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I went to the track today. Changes made: swapped from 3.23 to 2.94, and did a burn out.

60ft 1.897
1/8mph 88.18
1/8et 8.359
1/4mph 104.49
1/4et 12.952

Thats flying for that setup. The right convertor and what ever it would need to leave hard could put that setup into the low 12's, all it needs is to go from that 1.89 to a 1.5 60ft and it would be there. Good job.



Jess

Jess, I think I'm ok on the converter. It will stall over 2500rpm and build over 10psi while holding the brake but with the skinny tires...it just kills them. Yesterday, I was leaving the line with 3-4psi and letting the boost build...it actually comes on fairly quickly. A sticky tire would for sure allow me to launch harder but I like the skinny white wall tire look.

it seems counterintuitive that the swap to a lower ratio rear end would make your car faster. but i guess the reason is, this rear end allows the engine to operate at the right rpms (where the engine is making the most hp or torque) for a longer period of time?

I have to shift at 4500rpm since the motor will not go past this level. With the 3.23 I was running out of motor before the end of the quarter. Also, the 3.23 allowed the car to spin the tires at launch whereas the 2.94 allowed me to bring the car up on boost and launch without spinning the tires. In addition, the engine makes over 300 ft/lbs of rear wheel torque from 3650rpm to 4300rpm so the 2.94 allowed the car to be in its power band "longer".

Well guyz,I just want to say thanks for the great reading material,and darn you for spiking my interest in the /6 AGAIN !!!! I've built a couple of them so far,and have enjoyed immensely every minute of them !!! The last one (sold before I moved here to Melbourne) was a '69 Dart !!! 225cu in,bored .060 over,9:1 pistons,head shaved .090,1:70/1:44 valves,4bl Offy w/390Holley,manual shift 2800 stall conv to 3:90 gears !!!! What a blast I had with it,and well worth my investment !!! Guess I just need to get off my dead and onto my dyeing and find another project to play with !! Again,THANKS for rekindleing the fire !!! Maybe this time I come come a little closer to some of the numbers I'm seeing here !!!

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Dennis

Glad we could help!
DD

You can only suppress those feelings for so long!

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.