Some hall effect interupters, have different length/width vanes/slots. The "odd size" vane/slot is to create a #1 refference signal.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I am pretty sure there's no such master/#1/reference vane in this setup, because there'd be no reason for it. There's nothing the ECM does with the Hall Effect data that needs to be timed to coincide with any particular event in any particular cylinder.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Interesting. I'd expected the vanes to be sized so that it would be on half the time and off half the time, and it would trigger half the cylinders on the leading edge and the other half on the trailing edge. Instead it looks like it uses the vanes to trigger half the cylinders and interpolates to get the other half. I could be wrong, but with a setup like that it's probably not trying to trigger off both trigger edges and a tach adapter might work.

Why they didn't keep the Lean Burn distributor and design a new computer for it is beyond me...

Edited to add - another option would be to use a 36-1 wheel, wire it to a Ford EDIS-4 ignition module, and wire its PIP signal to the Hall effect sensor input on the Mopar ECU! The EDIS module turns the 36-1 wheel signal into a 12-0 volt square wave for the ECU, and an EDIS-4 would send such pulses twice per revolution. Whether the pulse length would confuse the stock ECU or not, I don't know.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

how goes the crank trigger installation?

zedpapa

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1970 dodge dart w/225 /6 bored .040" over, holley 390cfm w/vac. sec., compcams 252s, clifford shorty headers w/2.5" exhaust w/flowmaster, f-body 11" front discs, aluminum A-833OD, 8 1/4 w/3.21 SG
soon to have 5 gears!!!

I've been busy at work - the next step will be to make a sensor bracket. I'm planning to make two - one simple weld-free one, and a more elegant one that requires a welder.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

If you come up with a good, solid, welded design, I would ask you to consider making a couple extra. You might find a customer or two.

I'd be one of those customers! I am pretty much copying your build anyway (other than adding a flex fuel sensor)

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Chris'
Autobody
Restoration
Service

How many people here are interested? I may need to get a quote for something designed specifically for a slant if there's enough demand, although I can't promise anything.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

I'm in pending final pictures.

I am in as well. Are you using the Ford EDIS style crank sensor?

If it works, and the price seems reasonable I am interested. And if you can help a dumb dumb like me with a wiring diagram, that would help. The question is. of course, how to configure it with Accel Gen VII. I am sure it will support it, but how to get the information to do it has been the problem in the past. I guess I would have to understand how much benefit there would be here. I have been leaving the extra dual sync harness hang out unused ever since I installed it, since this would allow be to wire it in, I think.

Are you trying to get sequential EFI or just more precise MPI? Is the system a hall effect, with a voltage applied, or a mag set up which would produce a magnetic surge like the Mopar distributor? The Accel set up does require a referance for piston # 1, and the suggested route for that is to use the Mopar distributor with only one vane on the dizzy. I guess I am most interested if it moves me towards Sequential. otherwise the MPI set up for now seems to be working pretty well.

Sam

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i'm in. i would be interested in a sensor mount and the wheel. hopefully it fits with power steering. keep us posted with updates and pictures if you can swing it.

zedpapa

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1970 dodge dart w/225 /6 bored .040" over, holley 390cfm w/vac. sec., compcams 252s, clifford shorty headers w/2.5" exhaust w/flowmaster, f-body 11" front discs, aluminum A-833OD, 8 1/4 w/3.21 SG
soon to have 5 gears!!!

Wow, there's more interest for a full kit than I realized. I will have some more pictures as time permits (had a bunch of other things to work on) and if it goes well I'll see if it's something we could build in a batch and at what cost.

This trigger could be used to work with a sequential system if combined with a cam sync. I really had two reasons for putting it on there. The first was to improve my ignition timing control. It has several advantages over the stock setup: It's more accurate (no timing chain stretch or cam harmonics), and it provides cylinder identification, letting me switch to distributorless ignition if I want. The second reason was that the Dart's front end was half disassembled, making it much easier to write an article with putting this on my car than on one of Jerry's.

My Dart has power steering, so no problem there. I may need to make the final version able to adjust for one, two, or three pulleys. The sensor may be either a Ford EDIS or a GM sensor - but I suspect the GM ones will work with EDIS. I'll be sure to test this if I do. These are VR (inductive) pickups. Haven't tried these with a Hall effect sensor.

It should work with an EDIS-enabled Accel DFI. I'm not sure if this is an extra cost option on the Gen 7 or not (it was on some earlier units).

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Could you make it so it goes on the back of the dampner?

Only if I bring the cost or difficulty of installing it up considerably. I can see the benefit of putting it on the back of the damper - less issues with it hitting the fan, or turning into a "fan triggered ignition." But this would require a lot more parts built especially for the slant six, or require more fabrication on the part of the installer.

The front mount design lets you center it on the crank bolt, and doesn't need to be made in a lot of differnet versions to accomodate different installations. Centering it is important since the sensor is affected by runout on the trigger wheel.

If the wheel is mounted on the back, it would either need to be a ring shapped trigger welded to the damper, with the welder's skill determining how accurate it is, or something custom made specifically to fit the bolt circle on a slant six damper. The former would obviously take a lot more work on the installer's part, while the latter would either need a short run at a very high cost, or a part run of hundreds to make it inexpensive enough to be able to sell at the same sort of price as the front mount wheels.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair