Right hand drive 68 FB Barracuda

_________________
Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

hmmm, do'nt know what happened there,seems like the post text did'nt "post" as I thought.
seeing as how your slant would have heaps of room to fit extractors,why pursue a cast manifold?
click
extractors would give better performance than cast surely? they would be readily available for slants in SA?

regards,Rod

edit:
this is about the going rate for used extractors here.
http://www.moparmarket.com/classifieds_ ... edad=22106

Hey rod

Fanie here "68Barracuda"

You will enjoy my other ride - a CM REGAL SE 318

and hope fully help me to kill the person who just mutilated a VH charger on this side of the Indian ocean

_________________
Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

sorry about the long post, I just don't know how to post pictures...

This weekend I attempted mounting my new exhaust and used 2bbl intake to my 1980 s6. The exhaust is a brand new mopar unit and the intake i picked up off ebay.

I loosely assembled the unit on the floor (of my kitchen )with the 3 bolts around the "hotbox" and then tipped the assembly so the ports were sitting on a large straight edge. The exhaust pipe port was supported by a small jack so the whole thing was stable. I wanted to see if there were any huge gaps between the the port surfaces and the straight edge. It looked good so I took it out to the truck and started mounting it per the instructions I found on this forum and out of the Haynes manual. I got to the point where the 3 intake to exhaust bolts/nut were at 10 ft-lbs. and the nuts mounting the assembly to the head were at 10 in-lbs. At this point I could see big gaps between the gasket and the two center ports of the intake. I left the three bolts around the hotbox tightened and took the assembly off the engine. I set it ports side down on a bench like I had done on my kitchen floor. In some spots were gaps as large as 1/8" between the exhaust and intake port surfaces. It looked all out of whack.

So my question is can I tighten the hotbox bolts while the assembly is tipped up on the ports on level surface and then mount it to the engine. Or do I have to get the surfaces ground down after loosely mounting it to the engine? I can email pictures if anyone is interested.

Thanks in advance,

Sam,

It should be the same both ways (on the engine and on the floor) - at least pretty close. But I’d trust the engine mounting as more precise.

Did you try tightening the hotbox bolts while you had everything aligned on the kitchen floor? Sometimes when you tighten the bolts, it pulls everything cockeyed. The hotbox mating surface could be milled crooked, or the bolt holes drilled at an angle so they bind, or both.

Look for bolts that are close to their hole on one side. You may be able to drill one or two larger and get more wiggle room. Or, you can have a machine shop mill the assembly straight.

Danny

And the gaskets are…? It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions. The parts store varieties are a real damnuisance, especially the useless stamped-metal one that goes between the intake and exhaust manifolds.
You really need to discard the Haynes manual and get real books.
H'm. 10 lb·in won't do anything except hold the manifolds loosely against the head.
This is why the procedure is to have the hotbox bolts only finger-loose, set the manifold-to-head torque, and then tighten the hotbox bolts.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

In response to Dan's post:

I'm using the Aussie gaskets from GPRS Mopar

I have the Stockel and Stockel book, 1980 version, from my shop class back in the day, was hoping this forum and the haynes manual would fill in the gaps...

The Haynes manual states to tighten the manifolds to head nuts to 10 in-lbs and then the hotbox bolts to 10 or 20 ft-lbs. then go back and torque the manifold nuts to 10 ft-lbs. In the fireplace it goes...

I'll try it again torquing the manifolds first then the hotbox.

thanks.

In response to Danny:

When the assembly was on the floor,the stud for the hotbox was close to one side of the hole on the intake manifold. So I might have to bore that out a bit.

Thanks for the reply

I set the manifolds on a flat surface port side down again and looked at the hotbox holes(w/o the bolts in place). The intake holes need to be enlarged or filed on one side, they are off by ~ 1/16" and there is some flashing on the intake manifold that needs to be ground off.

Oh well, it's too cold in Florida right now to be outside working on a truck anyway!

Not surely. If we care about things like cold-engine operation, daily-driving fuel economy, low-RPM torque and such, then split cast manifolds can offer advantages. If all we're doing is mashing the accelerator to the floor and living at or near redline, then maybe we can talk about extractors (headers) giving better performance than split cast manifolds.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.