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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:42 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 11:19 am
Posts: 29
Car Model:
The crankshaft has a nose-1.960" OD. The adapter has a recess for that nose- 1.962". The torque converter side of that adapter/spacer (rear) has a nose which registers the flexplate and they fit nicely. That nose has a counterbore for the torque converter nose which fits as described above.

An aside- crankshaft endfloat is .008".

Is there a heavy duty/ rough service/ thicker adaptor plate available? Original flexplate (43 year old?) was .108" thick. Replacement was .088 thick. Don't know the material breakdowns however..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 2:24 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:45 pm
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Location: Vancouver, WA
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After looking farther, I am guess I was wrong, there was a crank
plate adaper used, and so stand corrected.

what I found in the parts book after looking again...
Adapter, drive plate (flex plate) 2202 472

Dowel, housing adaper 1533 923
Adjusting torkconverter
.007" Center Distance 1736 347
.014" " " 1736 348
.021" " " 1736 353


does the crank adaper have a number stamped on it? 2202 472?

the A727RG may have started in 69, however I have still found the
adapter plate type in as late as 71 trucks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:34 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 11:19 am
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But wait, there's more. When we do the math, it looks like when everything is put together, there is a small space (about .0040") between the flexplate and the torque converter. this is because the nose of the converter is longer than the depth of the counterbore in the crankshaft adapter. Should there be no gap at all betweeen the two?

Also, the replacement flexplate that I used last time is .0020" thinner than the original one that was in the van. (but that one broke too).

Ant thoughts before I put this all back together again?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:37 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 11:19 am
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Sorry, that's a space between flexplate and converter of .040" and a difference of .020" between the 2 flexplates.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Whoa. If I understand you correctly, you mean the converter nose bottoms out and you need to slightly bend the flex plate ears to get the bolts tight. I would imagine this could break a flexplate. Either grind down the TC nose by 0.060" (maybe just on edges?), or run 0.060" washers between the flexplate and TC pads, or deepend the hole in the crank adapter so the TC can go all the way in. This could definitely be your problem.

Lou

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:40 am 
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When the transmission is bolted to the engine, and the converter is "bottomed" in the trans, there should be a gap between the "pads" on the converter and the flexplate. The factory service manual does not give a dimension. The converter is then pulled to the flexplate, by hand, and the "pads" should be touching the flexplate. There should be no gap.

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Last edited by Charrlie_S on Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:58 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Good suggestions from Dart270. I also wonder, since we're dealing with a V8 trans here, if one of the heavy-duty flex plates available on the market might be a wise investment...?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:22 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Quote:
Good suggestions from Dart270. I also wonder, since we're dealing with a V8 trans here, if one of the heavy-duty flex plates available on the market might be a wise investment...?
I don't know if that is a viable option. The bolt pattern on the slant crankshaft is different then the V-8. I am pretty sure the V-8 trans, still used the slant six flexplate.

I think if the sugestions from Lou are utilized, it will cure the problem.
One other thing is to use "blue" locktite on all the flexplate bolts.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 12:23 pm 
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Slant Six and V8 patterns are same except for one bolt hole is offset about 3/8". Just take the Slant plate and use as a template to drill a V8 plate you buy - SFI cert from Mopar or Mancini is about $40.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:22 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:35 pm
Posts: 665
Location: Spokane, Washington
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Quote:
Slant Six and V8 patterns are same except for one bolt hole is offset about 3/8". Just take the Slant plate and use as a template to drill a V8 plate you buy - SFI cert from Mopar or Mancini is about $40.

Lou
Could you do the same thing with an V8 flywheel?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:38 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 9:47 pm
Posts: 526
Car Model:
Torque converters slides back and forth on their splines and seals. The flexplate should not be pulled into the torque converter ears as one bolting this on. If is, you have wrong one or something is up.

Cheers, Wizard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 3:50 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:45 pm
Posts: 135
Location: Vancouver, WA
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
Slant Six and V8 patterns are same except for one bolt hole is offset about 3/8". Just take the Slant plate and use as a template to drill a V8 plate you buy - SFI cert from Mopar or Mancini is about $40.

Lou
Could you do the same thing with an V8 flywheel?
Seen that done, got a truck \6 fly that was living behind a
LA for many years that way without issue. However, if it
was me I would get the hole filled before drilling the new one....

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62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron


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