Last night I was looking into how to get behind the bumper with no cutting. The under the front bumper would just get smashed on the first parking stop, so thats out. I am no longer really worried about the ram air effect, I just don't want to end up at a negitive pressure spot. I can get behind the bumper with not cutting, but its tricky. A 4" tube would be alot easier with the route I would need to take. I may stick with the 5" and custom build a special routing plemun to get there.
Stay "tuned"

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

My 2 cents

I read In the one Mopar book that scoops of any sort must be at least 32 square inches in frontal area - with a direct path to the carb -

That said I love your idea looks great, but wold prefer some sort of forward facing scoop either side of the rad with a a surface area of say 16 square inches each and a 16 sq inch duct from each feeding into your cleaner

Keep us up to date

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

I would agree with that.....32 sq. in. is a good number.

I really like the idea of plumbing an intake into the cowl "fresh-air" cut out. While it would require firewall cutting, I think it would look trick if done properly. (And it wouldn't have to interfere with A/C) Plus you could keep a stock apperance if that was a concern.
My .01...

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

I would have to assume that the 32 sq" number must be for some of the V8s. A single 5" round duct will provide 19 sq"s and that just seems huge for a 6cylinder.
I have at least one rule that I will not break and thats no cutting. To date every thing thats been done can be undone without the use of a welder. (besides a few screw holes) The cowel would be the shortest and best overall place to draw air from, but it breaks the rules. I have the top and bottom peices made from ALuminum at this point. Still need to make the wrapping strip and weld it up.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I like lots of pictures, so I thought I'd share some more in the process.

http://tinyurl.com/24btef
http://tinyurl.com/yvrheh
http://tinyurl.com/2g2gjk
http://tinyurl.com/yr9wmg

As you can see I have to fix a little clearance problem with a small dimple.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I agree about the cutting

Why not try to fit the intakes just bellow the front bumper - where your two small spots are located?

I think you guys call it the gravel pan? there is lots of space for 2 intakes

I was wondering - I own a Mopar twin snorkel aircleaner of a 4bbl V8 If I was to hook up some ducting and see where this leads me

Am using a single snorkel 4bbl V8 one at this stage

Will let you know

_________________
Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Take it back to the firewall. Plumb it into the air inlet there. Let your windshield pressurize your air. Can't be seen unless you raise the hood.
You'd have to cut holes though.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

There is no way to get to that area unless I cut the rad. support or cut the rad. its self.

My new idea is to come down and around the driverside frame rail and duct in behind the bumper in the wheel well. I will need to form fit this area under the rail to avoid seeing it from the front. Not the best design, but there is high pressure there and it up off the ground a bit.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

witch was my next suggestion

_________________
Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

Something else to consider over the top but still

If you have a second 67/68 bonnet - hood over your side of the pond? - those fake inlets of ours

What if you/me take one and open those two openings - and fit a NACCA type duct in them - make up a nice set of remove able trapdoors with the normal trim fitted - so if you go racing pop them off other wise keep them in place for pottering around town - and let the engine breathe through a trap door in the cleaner

_________________
Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

The "RamAir" system has been changed to a "ColdAir" system and its pretty much done.
http://tinyurl.com/yqchye
http://tinyurl.com/2dutwt
http://tinyurl.com/2y3r7v
http://tinyurl.com/yrlf6y Still thinking on how to finish this off, besides simply painting it black to hide it.

The pictures look orange but they are really the correct Chrysler Red.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

That dont look bad at all. Is it welded together? The edges seem pretty smooth for what it started out as. Good job no matter how. Matches up with the engine compartment as far as fit and style real nice.



Now what about the rest of the story with the other new parts? We have new TC,GV-OD, Headers and exhaust. Hows it doing sense changes?


Jess

Thanks
Its welded AL and I used a flap wheel to grind the edges a bit to smooth them.
The rest of the story.
My data is incomplete at this point, but I'll give ya what I got so far.
I haven't been back to the track for testing. My Wide band O2 is not working correctly so I am not sure what the engine is doing fuel wise. MSD has failed to get back to me with what to do with it. I'd like to throw it in the trash. Napa just got in some more of the plugs I am running. Plan to install those to check fuel by way of plug reading. Whats the world coming to if I got the read plugs again. I have a new off idle hesition since installing the headers that still needs to be figured out. Having trouble with my local shop bumping my appointment twice for rear gear change. (3.07 to 3.55) Using my performace timing computer FX2, my 60' were faster than ever recorded after the TC change but now slower after the header and exhaust change. Its slower because I just blow the tires away now even when running the A/C. Plan to remove the rear spring clamps and lower tire pressure to see what happens. This may work untill I fix the hesition.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

another $10,000,and you will still have a high 14 sec car,WITH back seat and AIR,my opinion,buy anouther car,lighten it up and go 13, Just my opinion,mark

The hesitation is probably because it is lean. Give it some main jet on both ends until you can do proper testing. LOL, although you will blow tires off even more then. Yes it sounds like she is breathing better and needs more fuel.


WBO2 sensors, despite all the problems you read about Innovate WBO2 systems, they have served me well (knock on wood). Its very possible that the old exhaust was so restrictive that it killed your sensor though, to rich, to hot. It also throws the readings off when there is a exhaust problem, makes them read richer most of the time. "Need more power Scotty" (fuel).


Jess