Ok so I did the HEI conversion and it worked perfectly. The car idled perfectly smooth and I could barely tell the thing was running while sitting at a stop light. 5 days later and two trips down the highway and its back to the same problem I had with the points. It's slowly starting to run worse and worse. When I'm at a stop light, instead of idling smooth it's a bit jerky and vibrating way more than it should. Eventually it will most likely get to the point where it won't run without being on the gas again. It's timed at 10 BTDC and ran smooth for the first couple days (just as it always did when I changed points).

Whats the deal here? It's gotta be the cam but I'm not good enough with cars to be able to diagnose that. Has anyone here ever had this problem or have any advice to give me? On the old points distributor I pulled out, it has some play when I push the shaft up and down. There's no side to side play but I'm not sure if its supposed to move up and down much or even at all. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

So the car runs smooth cold and not hot? Like the valves are too tight?

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Joshua

When I would re gap/buy new points or when I put the HEI conversion in, the car ran as smooth as could be for the first couple days, hot or cold. Then after a highway run it starts running rough. The next day I'll start it up and when cold, it doesn't run nearly as smooth as it ran cold during the first couple days I'd change points or put the HEI in. Then after running it for a while and it getting hot, it runs even worse.

So basically it runs smoother when cold, but not as smooth as it should be. After a few months it should escalate to the point where I can't even drive it without being on the gas all the time because it'll die. I haven't had enough time with the HEI conversion to prove this, but already I can tell that it's going down the same exact road as the points distributors.

You think I should adjust the valves and then go from there?

Sounds like your coil is failing or you have a serious voltage drop in the wiring to the coil. What does the volt meter say at the coil when it is doing this? There is a voltage drop some where......

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

First thing I did to my 63 Dart was electronic ignition. Haven't messed with it since. Been at least 18 yrs. Good thing to do.for me.

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ifyoubegintothinkyou'relosingcontrol...it'salreadygone

7000 miles on my tune up from last year. I did it just before Beech Bend. I am going to check everything before I go this year. I have points that are NOS Atlas from back in the day.

Anyone remember when they sold gold plated points??

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I think Ted may have hit the nail on the head. I would change the coil out, its a cheap fix.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

I found some time yesterday to check it out but I couldn't find my volt meter. I can pretty much gurantee its not the coil itself since this problem occured with the old coil as well as the new MSD Blaster 2 I installed with the HEI conversion.

You still need to check voltages from your key switch and power sources. Some where there it is cutting out or there is a bad ground from the engine to the frame and frame to the battery.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG