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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 7:04 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
Posts: 2432
Location: East Arkansas
Car Model:
Russ
Thanks again for sharing the cost info. That really helps.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 12:28 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2005 4:01 pm
Posts: 12
Location: Bensalem, Pa.
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It took me less than 15 minutes to drill 2 rotors with a handheld drill. JWH


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 1:07 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 12:49 am
Posts: 267
Location: Burlington / West Seattle
Car Model:
Hay TopHat: Are you still running the F/J/M knuckles between your A-body Upper+Lower Control Arms??

Can you give us the low-down on how well that went together and the performance up/downs?

Thanks,
Seth


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 4:18 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 7:18 pm
Posts: 134
Location: ny
Car Model:
Tophat
Yes it is true that it is neccesary to drill the chevy rotors to the mopar small pattern. It really wasnt too difficult, and i was able to do it myself with a handheld drill and the provided template. It is a bit time consuming though


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 5:10 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:19 am
Posts: 470
Location: SC
Car Model: 63 Dart 81 D150
Quote:
Hay TopHat: Are you still running the F/J/M knuckles between your A-body Upper+Lower Control Arms??

Can you give us the low-down on how well that went together and the performance up/downs?

Thanks,
Seth
Yes I am still running the FMJ spindles. They work great. I could not find stock UCA's for a good price near me so I did use the RMS tubular UCA's. The main reason I went with the RMS arms is that I lowered my front end almost down on the bumpstops so I needed the extra adjustability. The arms bolt in just like regular arms though.

The assembly went smooth as silk. Depending on how familiar you are with front end work (one of the things I do for a living) you could do the upgrade in half a day, less with a lift and airtools. I did mine in my gravel driveway and rebuilt the whole frontend at the same time, taking my time I had it done in a weekend.

The up side.
Buy parts anywhere and bolt them on without mods.
Braking difference is day and night.
BBP wheels, less expensive, more choices, better handling.
FMJ spindles are still cheep and easy to find.
Your Mopar can stay all Mopar.

The down side.
Stock 73-76 UCA's are getting hard to find.
RMS UCA's are a bit more expensive then stock.
I really can't think of any other down sides other then I didn't do it sooner.


If I had it to do all over again I would do it the same way.

Quote:
Tophat
Yes it is true that it is neccesary to drill the chevy rotors to the mopar small pattern. It really wasnt too difficult, and i was able to do it myself with a handheld drill and the provided template. It is a bit time consuming though
I understand it is not all that hard to drill the rotors. In 3-4 years I know I would not be able to find the template to drill my next set though.




TopHat


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