Slant Six Forum :: Weber 32/36 DGEV to a super six manifold

Darn it making me think it's a terrible thing.
Okay I'll look into the 38/38 I don't want a slug out of the hole, right now since I've rebuilt my one barrel and I have some leakage going on that's what I have.

....so what do you all think of the way they setup the linkage in the above picture?

Also would it be better to fill the existing mounting holes and then drill it out for the correct weber spacing or to use an adapter. Some people say having a spacer is a good thing as far as heat is concerned??

Also does anyone know the center to center bolt spacing on a Weber?

I used to run a Weber 32/36 on a cast iron Supersix manifold back in the early 2000s. I used some kind of Datsun Z Weber carb adapter (sorry don't remember the details) that I hogged out with a Dremel. It was about 2 inches high if I remember. It actually worked better, by butt dyno, then the same carb on my Clifford water heated manifold. I could actually chirp the tires with that setup...seemingly better low-end torque.

Hmm... Well after reading the last reply, I'm not sure. Decent gas mileage is a good thing, but not if it makes the car into a "slug". I don't hammer this car much, I mostly just drive it normally. If I can get almost as much fuel efficiency out of the 38/38 as the 32/36, I'll probably go with the 38/38.
Also, while this car is mostly stock now (except for Dutra Duals), you never know.
Thanks,

Author:	Wesola78 [ Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:14 am ]
Post subject:
Hmm... Well after reading the last reply, I'm not sure. Decent gas mileage is a good thing, but not if it makes the car into a "slug". I don't hammer this car much, I mostly just drive it normally. If I can get almost as much fuel efficiency out of the 38/38 as the 32/36, I'll probably go with the 38/38. Also, while this car is mostly stock now (except for Dutra Duals), you never know. Thanks,

Author:	TexasDart [ Wed Mar 19, 2008 9:56 am ]
Post subject:
Darn it making me think it's a terrible thing. Okay I'll look into the 38/38 I don't want a slug out of the hole, right now since I've rebuilt my one barrel and I have some leakage going on that's what I have. ....so what do you all think of the way they setup the linkage in the above picture? Also would it be better to fill the existing mounting holes and then drill it out for the correct weber spacing or to use an adapter. Some people say having a spacer is a good thing as far as heat is concerned?? Also does anyone know the center to center bolt spacing on a Weber?

Author:	Patrick Devlin [ Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:01 pm ]
Post subject:
I used to run a Weber 32/36 on a cast iron Supersix manifold back in the early 2000s. I used some kind of Datsun Z Weber carb adapter (sorry don't remember the details) that I hogged out with a Dremel. It was about 2 inches high if I remember. It actually worked better, by butt dyno, then the same carb on my Clifford water heated manifold. I could actually chirp the tires with that setup...seemingly better low-end torque.

Author:	LUCKY13 [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 1:09 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Darn it making me think it's a terrible thing. Okay I'll look into the 38/38 I don't want a slug out of the hole, right now since I've rebuilt my one barrel and I have some leakage going on that's what I have. ....so what do you all think of the way they setup the linkage in the above picture? Also would it be better to fill the existing mounting holes and then drill it out for the correct weber spacing or to use an adapter. Some people say having a spacer is a good thing as far as heat is concerned?? Also does anyone know the center to center bolt spacing on a Weber? I would probably just use the adaptor as long as your talking about adapting the Weber to the Super Six setup ( Not a one barrel intake). One thing the Weber has a funny bottom to its base plate and needs something that matches it perfect or it will have vacuum leaks, so the adaptor will do that good. Quote: I used to run a Weber 32/36 on a cast iron Supersix manifold back in the early 2000s. I used some kind of Datsun Z Weber carb adapter (sorry don't remember the details) that I hogged out with a Dremel. It was about 2 inches high if I remember. It actually worked better, by butt dyno, then the same carb on my Clifford water heated manifold. I could actually chirp the tires with that setup...seemingly better low-end torque. I would say that would be about right. The Clifford intake really has a lot of plenum and runner volume that could be to much for a small 32/36 on a mild /6 engine. The Super Six intake just simply gave you the cross sectional area you needed for your combo. If you would have had a 38/38 with that SS intake you would have really had more power. Quote: Hmm... Well after reading the last reply, I'm not sure. Decent gas mileage is a good thing, but not if it makes the car into a "slug". I don't hammer this car much, I mostly just drive it normally. If I can get almost as much fuel efficiency out of the 38/38 as the 32/36, I'll probably go with the 38/38. Also, while this car is mostly stock now (except for Dutra Duals), you never know. Thanks, I don't think you would be a slug with the 32/36, but I do feel you would find yourself wanting/needing more power at times even when just in daily driver mood. So much so that you would find yourself having to just kick the carb WOT to get in and out of traffic at times instead of being able to just crack the throttle about 1/3 and having the power needed. This in its self can save fuel. Todays traffic & newer fasters cars really push use to keep up with older tech cars. One thing many people don't think about when it comes to bigger carbs is the fact that with a bigger carb the engine will have less pumping looses. What is pumping looses? Your engine is a big air pump, so when it is restricted it has to suck harder to get the food it needs. THis harder suction creates a drag on the engine and causes HP loose from simply working harder. One of the hardest things for me to except/learn when tuning for MPG was that sometimes more throttle opening & less timing will give better MPG. Ofcourse you need that timing to help accelerate ( thats why the vacuum advance is good to have), but once you are cruising ( steady throttle) you don't need as much timing and sometimes can even back up to the point that it forces you to have to open the throttle farther. The way the cruise circuit is setup you are almost already drawing all the fuel it can flow once you have the throttle cracked any at all (through the cruise circuit). When you open it farther the A/F mix leans down ( all it does is add more air). If you have ever used a A/F meter in the car you would see this happen. So you back the timing down and it forces you to have to open the throttle a little extra just to maintain cruise, this lets extra air in and leans down the A/F mix, but at the same time you have reduced pumping looses because the engine doesn't have to work as hard because the carb is holding less resistance against the engine (letting more air flow in). What happens is it takes less fuel to cruise at the same power level because you make more power out of less because of the lower pumping looses and the good lean mix also makes for good power. Think about some of these import cars and how they use to go down the highway turning as much as 3500 RPM (before OD tranny's) but still get great MPG. It becomes a balancing act sometimes when tuning and that is why it takes a lot of time when working out which setup produces the best results. Its easy to get a carb that doesn't show rich fuel or any lean bog problems. But to dial it in the little extra amount takes some work and that is where the biggest pay offs are in power & economy. Most people want push the tune up this far, but with todays fuel prices it will force you to learn how & do it. The funny thing is you all of a sudden realize that when you where tuning for fuel milage, somehow you ended up with more power (when you get it right). Jess

Author:	Wizard [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 7:27 am ]
Post subject:	Interesting and have question.
Will the stock old computer like my carbed 2.2L caravan that only control the ingition timing via manifold vacuum make this MPG tuning diffcult? I didn't consider the retarding timing forcing you to go wider on throttle. Weber is nice but something is giving me hard time with this attempt. Cheers, Wizard

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Weber 32/36 DGEV to a super six manifold https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27907	Page 2 of 2

Author:	Jopapa [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 3:55 pm ]
Post subject:
If the budget works out after I get all my other stuff I'm definitely getting the K551-8 kit. Sounds like a sweet way to go. I'd sure like to find it for less than $450... That and I hate that air cleaner it uses. Wonder if I can adapt a stock airbox...

Author:	Rob64GT [ Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:01 pm ]
Post subject:
I have a 38/38 Weber and the adapter. The carb has had gas in it but it was not run. I never got the trans kick down hooked up and before I got it running I went to a turbo setup with blow through Holley. I would sell the carb w/aircleaner and the adapter for $250 if anybody is interested.

Author:	Chally7t [ Fri Mar 21, 2008 1:37 pm ]
Post subject:
Hi everybody, I'm new here posting from France Rob64, I'm interested with your kit. Is it for 1BBL intake ? Or Super Six ?

Author:	gato [ Fri Mar 21, 2008 4:33 pm ]
Post subject:	whatzit mean>
somebody clue me in? weber 38/38? is it twin venturi's with 38mm diameters, or each of the main jets is #38? is it bigger than my BBD? D~~~!

Author:	emsvitil [ Fri Mar 21, 2008 4:35 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: whatzit mean>
Quote: somebody clue me in? weber 38/38? is it twin venturi's with 38mm diameters, or each of the main jets is #38? is it bigger than my BBD? D~~~! 38mm throat Webers are 2 stage, so a 38/38 is 38 primary,38 secondary

Author:	Rob64GT [ Fri Mar 21, 2008 6:13 pm ]
Post subject:
The adapter is for a super six manifold. Also I have an electric fuel pump for the carb, its the pump that is recommended by Webber. I'll included it too.

Author:	Rust collector [ Sat Mar 22, 2008 6:38 am ]
Post subject:	Re: whatzit mean>
Quote: Quote: somebody clue me in? weber 38/38? is it twin venturi's with 38mm diameters, or each of the main jets is #38? is it bigger than my BBD? D~~~! 38mm throat Webers are 2 stage, so a 38/38 is 38 primary,38 secondary The dgas and similar are not 2 stage, they open both holes at the same time. 38mm is 1.5", so it is a bit bigger than the bbd, which has 1-1/4" IIrc

Author:	tlrol [ Sat Mar 22, 2008 7:25 am ]
Post subject:	Weber on a Slant
Putting a Weber 32/36 DGV on a Slant Six is easy to do, and you WILL like the results. You want a Super Six manifold (which you apparently have). The throttle linkage and kick down linkage can be an issue, depends on what kind of car you have. I put the Weber 32/36 in my Slant Six truck (I Super Sixed the manifold)--a slight modification to the throttle cable bracket was all I needed to do to make it bolt on (I used the two barrel adaptor from Redline). Things you MUST do to make this work right: 1. Get the proper adaptor. Check for vacuum leaks like it is a religion. 2. Install a fuel pressure regulator and set it to 3 to 3.5 psi. 3. Get the Holley air cleaner adaptor and either modify the base of your present air clear to use a Holly 5 1/4" base or buy a new one--the Weber cleaners are a joke. Small and kind of cheesy with the clips, etc. 4. Make sure your engine is in the best state of tune possible. New plugs, plug wires, timed, etc. 5. BEFORE you install the Weber open it up and check the float setting--plastic vs brass--they get different settings and boy will it make a difference. Don't trust the factory--I did, bad on me. They set a plastic float to the brass setting--it turned that thing into junk. 6. Be ready to re-jet. Remember the 32/36 was DESIGNED for a 2.0 liter 4 cylinder. Having said that it can be re-jetted to make a Slant Six feel really good. Take notes as you re-jet--it takes awhile to tune them and every engine is different. My jet receipe is below, it is a work in progress but it performs well except that secondary doesn't open up quite enough yet--still tweaking (probably use a 180 or 190 Secondary Fuel): Primary Idle: 80 Primary Fuel: 160 Primary Air: 190 Secondary Idle: 70 Secondary Fuel: 175 Secondary Air: 190 Performance is WAY better than te stock one barrel. I had a bog on the secondary opening that went away when I put in the larger secondary idle--that is a little odd, but with the Webe's you have so many variables that sometimes you effective jetting results are different than the norm. Bottomline: Get the 32/36 DGV if you have a mostly stock engine, the 38/38 is a fine carb but it needs engine tweaks to perform to its best. There is a 34/34 that is available, that might be worth a try as well. Don't be afraid of the Webers, they are highly tunable (a positive and negative attribute I suppose) and they perfom much better than the stock one barrel (and better than the Crter BBD two barrel as well). Tuning is the key, but it isn't hard to do at all. Just check the float setting first--consider what it must be like to assemble carbs all day and you can understand why you need to check the factory's work...Hope this helps

Author:	Chally7t [ Sun Mar 23, 2008 2:07 pm ]
Post subject:
I can get a very cheap Offy 4BBL intake instead of the SS intake. Do you think this will flow as well as the SS, using a 2BBl to 4BBl adapter to plug the Weber? Sure I'll have a weight improvment...have you ever seen this kind of combination ? My engine is stock, so I think I don't need a 4BBL carb

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Author:	Wesola78 [ Sun Mar 23, 2008 6:52 pm ]
Post subject:
I have an Offy 4bbl intake that I'll be mounting a Weber 2bbl carb on. In my opinion, this combo should work as well or better than a super six intake. My slant is stock, with the exception of Dutra Duals. Anybody else?