Was looking at the replies. Sent you an email Ted. Saw your reply Doc with the picture and didn't realize there was a link at the top until just now. Too busy looking at the load of springs you have collected. Thanks for the link. Same article Ted probably has. If yes Ted you don't need to send the email, but thanks for offering.

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From Mopars to classic Minis and back to Mopars in 19 years flat!

Will work for roast chicken crisps!!

Okay, not sure anyone is interested still (no knock on anyone just this is an older topic now), but been testing a bit on the car.

Set the timing back down to 9-10 degrees initial. No change to weights, springs etc. This gave me a total w/vac of 44 at 3000 rpm with is roughly calc to be 65mph with my car. Changed the jet as I previously posted (I think I remember posting that) to cure the still lean look. Insulator is white all the way down etc. Autolite 66 plug. Idle set to 750-800, mix set using the gunsons in the pipe with a reading of 3.2 to 3.3 on ave at idle. We drove the car around like that, some trips down to the shops, a few up the highway and back etc. Filled the car up this weekend and mph dropped to approx 13mpg.

So, I got in my Holley jets and replaced the jet with a 57, retimed the car back up, but only to 16 degrees initial instead of the 21 as before. The 21 degree mark did give me an increase in idle speed and a very slight increase in vac over the 16 mark, but thought was to plot where the 16 setting would get with the new 57 jet and then go from there. Idle to 750-800, mix set using vac guage, took it down to a stumble and drop in vac and then richened it until the idle smoothed and the vac reached its highest reading. With initial as it is I should be at 52 degrees all in by 3000 rpm now. Will test and see how it does. No pinging experienced on the initial run out after reset.

Will be interested to see if average daily driving around will show an increase in mpg again back up to around the 16.9 range I had initially after the HEI redo.

Oh, as a matter of interest, well to me at least anyway, I found where I'd written the odo down from my initial fill up after the first tuning of the car when we first got it. When I got the car the air filter was absolutely black. Looked like it had not been changed in years. No light through it. Valves were all set to the same value all the way across. Don't remember what the number was, but let's say 18 all the way across. Plugs and wires all nasty and worn. Cap, rotor, points all in pretty poor shape. Oil very black. Carb needed rebuild, poured rich exhaust smoke out the back no matter how you adjusted it. Timing on TDC and I set to 5 degrees with the old points dizzy still in. 2.76 gears and stock wheels and tyres. Anyway, computing that tank the mpg was 11 mpg. With as sad a shape the maintenance was on the engine and the carb spewing fuel etc. I'd have to guess the chap I got it from was probably pulling 7 or 8 out of it!

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From Mopars to classic Minis and back to Mopars in 19 years flat!

Will work for roast chicken crisps!!

How many miles do you have on this engine?

Is it pretty worn and blowing oil on the air cleaner?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hi Ted,

No telling on miles. Would not say that many as it was a reman unit the previous owner put in a couple of years back. I'll have to dig up the receipt and see what miles were on it then. Car is showing 80 some thousand on the odo so??? No, no blowing oil on the air cleaner etc. The air cleaner was just black with dirt from being in so long. I have my doubts that he ever changed the air filter the whole time he had the car. Car does not smoke now that I rebuilt the carb. Runs smooth, don't notice any oil burning. Does have a few seal leaks. Mostly on the trans. Need to change the pan gasket on it and seems to have a rear main drip. Nothing too bad. Not worth mucking with until I get more serious.

Cheers

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From Mopars to classic Minis and back to Mopars in 19 years flat!

Will work for roast chicken crisps!!

MoparBrit,

I have been puzzled for quite awhile with your lack of good mileage especially after you did the recurve, valve lash and HEI mod. The distributor recurve does help mileage allot, however you should be getting well over 20 mpg. I am not kind to my car and drive it hard and the worst I get is 22.5 mpg and most of the time I get much better mileage nearing 25 mpg on my commutes back and forth to work.

On the way home today I was wondering when the last time your rebuilt the little Holley? I have been extensively modifying and running tests on mine and it keeps getting better and better. Today when I had the bowl off while installing larger jet I was looking the power valve and how in it's natural state it is all the way down pushing on all three of the inlet balls. I generally check the (3) little bolts on top of the carb that hold it in place. Mine will whistle now and then when it gets loose. When you loose vacuum it will let the power valve down and cause you to run richer than normal. If the diaphragm should leak from a pin hole the same thing could happen.

After reading your posts I just had to ask when was the last time you changed the power valve?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

When doing changes to fuel and timing, the 'one size fits all' does not apply here (that's why timing is a very 'rough guide line, R&D type subject) One of the big factors with fuel and spark equations is seeing where your buddy is located.... timing and fuel formulation at Black Diamond's paisley 653 feet above sea level will definately not be anything like being at Rio Rancho's 5679 feet above sea level... Mopar Brit just doesn't have the same amount of air at his level vs. yours... also I'm betting that our Pac NW humidity levels are also a bit different than his high desert driving environment... Given the lack of air/oxygen in his 'air', I'm betting he's pretty close to getting all he can get out of his car without some change of scenery or other engine modification... (and he can't get too tight with things or a drop in altitude could really make things fun during his trip...)




-D.Idiot

Hi,

Carb was rebuilt using a NAPA kit when we first got the car. Only got about 400 or so miles on it from there. Still have an incling that there might be some carb issue perhaps. Often doubt my own work even though kitted many a carb. Just never had a slant before so defer more to those who have been there done that.

Now if it was a Mini with an SU or HIF then no bother!

The economiser diaphram assembly was replaced when the kit was put in. Carb had some issues though when I got into it. Fuel bowl had the ears bent in from being way overtightened, there was no pump diaphragm spring behind the pump diaphragm assembly and the economiser valve cover (the one with the three screws on top) had to be bent or warped as I had a vacuum whistle there.

Thanks to the help of Dan, Grumpuscreature (from A body board) and Roberson_tech (from A body board) I was able to confirm items needed and get the parts. Many thanks again!!! Now the cover seals, the spring is in place and a nice straight fuel bowl cover is on.

Been wondering about the pump link connection. For normal operation the rebuild kit said to put it in the middle hole. For cold climate use the outer hole and for hot used the inner hole. I placed the linkage in normal centre. It does get cold here and it does get hot here.

I do have a super six set up that I can put on, but thought I would have been able to pull better mpg with the 1920 than I have. Become a bit of a challenge. I emailed Dan on the carbs he has as well. Thought was to start new with perhaps an Economiser, but torn with the "just go ahead and do the Super Six" thought as in general driving I have read that you end up running just on the single barrel most of the time (unless you are giving it welly all the time) and can get better MPG while having better power available when needed.

Feeling now is that we are "in" the carb all the time to keep steady speed. We do live in an area where you could say it has very slight gradual rolling hills here and there, but certainly nothing out of the ordinary for almost anywhere.

I do need to fix the thermal switch in the air cleaner. When I had the air cleaner laying to the side while tuning I did here a buzz coming from it. Tried Dan's suggestion of a spritz of carb cleaner, but still does it. The switch works and operates the air cleaner door, but feel I might be loosing vacuum there perhaps. Not much luck in finding another and then having that thought of putting on the super six that has the correct air cleaner with it with switch.

DusterIdiot, yes, had the same thoughts. Still would think that we should be able to pull better than 16.9 though. I would think (there is a problem from the start ) that with thinner air I should be able to get away with less jet. Although then the thought of having an effective "air pump" means it probably struggles to pull air in. Perhaps mods that have not been done yet like the 2.25 exhaust system with perhaps a super turbo muffler (guess it is still beneficial to go 2.25 all the way back instead of the small pipe from the muffler out like I've read about here and there?) to get it breathing and then the super six carb etc. would help.

Hmmm. Know what you are saying on altitude change though. Mostly going to be used around here and try to get max mpg, but might actually take it on a trip or two perhaps. If I could pull 23 -25 around town with a bit more on the highway I'd be over the moon! Especially when you consider 1971 technology up against a '94 4Runner that gets 17.5 around town and not much better on the highway. Maybe a best of about 23.

Thanks for the help and hanging with me.

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From Mopars to classic Minis and back to Mopars in 19 years flat!

Will work for roast chicken crisps!!

MoparBrit,

To put DI's altitude idea to test, what do your friends get for mileage with their cars? Is it killing their mileage too?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Can't really say Ted. Don't know anyone around here that has a slant car and nothing to compare to otherwise so going off the multiple posts read on various boards especially here.

I have seen people post on the 4Runner boards that they are getting a best of 13 or so around town with their 4Runners and we get 17.5, but then you have to read between the lines a bit. You find they've changed the tyres to some huge mudder type and done other things that make the reading inaccurate without even thinking that the speedo is not off, extra weight etc. Similar thing happens often with Minis. Car has been driving around with 3.76 FD and then they drop in a Mini Metro engine/gearbox assembly or something so that they have a 1300 in it. They could then have a 3.44 FD or even a 3.1 for example. Amazing the number that never deal with the difference on the speedo head.

Anyway, got more of a comfort level with the tech and engineering abilities on this board as far as that goes. Nice to be around people who actually understand what is going on in a car/engine specific combo. Would really like to get this car up to the mpg stated. Sure I could go out and buy a Honda or something, but we've always liked the classics and not the new stuff. Apart from that, if I can get the mpg to that level then I'd be outdoing many of the newer cars out there and driving something more to our taste. Would have me seriously thinking of selling the 4Runner then.

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From Mopars to classic Minis and back to Mopars in 19 years flat!

Will work for roast chicken crisps!!

Have you done a compression check? What is the cranking compression in psi ?
(sorry in advance if you already posted that info., I did not go back an re-read the whole thread)
DD

Since the subject is timing, what is a good, reliable, and accurate brand of variable advance timing light?

Just ran a compression on it. Warmed the engine up, took out all the plugs, held the throttle wide open and here is what I got.

1 - 128
2 - 119
3 - 130
4 - 130
5 - 132
6 - 127

I make that an average of 127.67 That makes the lowest, #2, down by 6.79 percent from the average. Supposedly still within the 10 percent spec. that I'd copied down from another site a while ago. Someone correct the variance tolerance if I'm wrong on that please.

Squirted a couple of squirts of oil in #2 as concerned I might have the valves wrong on that cylinder. Tested compression and it went up to 128/129. I'd say that was an indicator of blow past the rings/cylinder issue rather than valves.

Funnily, had a look in the Haynes (yes I know, I know, can't follow simple page gluing instructions ) and they say 100 lb minimum with no more than 20 lbs between cylinders variance. If you look at that, I'm only 13 lbs away so still in spec. Maybe not ideal, would be nice to have it spot on, but there you go.

What do you think Doc? Others?

Engine seems to runs smooth.

Cheers

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From Mopars to classic Minis and back to Mopars in 19 years flat!

Will work for roast chicken crisps!!

MoparBrit,

Looks pretty good, but if your worried about the #2 cylinders rings being pluged, you could always run a cup of xmission fluid in the engine to act as a mild detergent to clean out the oil holes in the piston. Another option would be to run a cup of synthetic oil which would also act like a mild detergent. The 0-30W Mobil One I am running is a high detergent oil. If either of those ideas are too wild, just change oil more often and use Valvoline 5-30W. It will clean the holes out.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Worth a try! Have not done the fogger routine on one in a while Think the engine is fairly clean, but probably could not hurt to run a bit through the carb.

Using 10/40 Mobil One high mileage in it right now.

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From Mopars to classic Minis and back to Mopars in 19 years flat!

Will work for roast chicken crisps!!

1. Avoid 10w40 oil and so-called "high-mileage car" oils. Neither is good for your engine.

2. Your compression results look pretty good — remember, the high altitude means a less-dense charge, which means lower compression numbers for any given state of repair of the engine's hard parts.

3. Use the Soup recipe if you suspect stuck rings.

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