You've got a(nother) PM.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

SL6Dan,
I was thinking at first (what I meant but miss stated) was could I use the fuel tank vent line?, but after further consideration could the carb bowl line be used? Which would be the best?

Thanks!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

H'mmm...good question. I'd need to look at the routing for the tank vent line, which might or might not be usable depending on whether there are any liquid/vapour separators in that line. I would definitely not route the fuel filter vapour return line to the bowl vent line — this would create a "vicious loop" as it seems to me.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

On the vapor return line from the fuel bowl......since it goes to the canister anyway to store fumes, if I tapped into that line from the fuel filter wouldn't the fumes be stored in the cannister also? Same with the fuel tank vent line? Vapors from both lines are stored in the canister right? Then pulled back into the carb by the third line going to the bottom half of the carb.

I suppose the fuel tank vent line would be better to use and less smelly when you shut off the engine. The fuel bowl vent line likes to vent into the throat of the carb and provide a little odor on real hot days.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Aw man, I wrote out a nice long post, hit the preview button, then forgot to actually submit it.

Oh well. Here it is again in a nutshell:

This morning I woke up early enough to try my hand at adjusting the valves. I got the car warmed up good and hot and proceeded to take off the valve cover. Wow. Talk about messy. But Fun!!!

I read Dan's instructions a couple of times before starting the job so I was prepared. I got my wrench and my feeler gauges and started with the intake valves. They were tight. Pretty darn tight. I adjusted them with the .010" shim then moved on to the exhaust valves. Did I mention the intake valves were tight? Well, I think these were even tighter!!! I used the .020 shim and had to back all of them off a good bit. When I got to the dead cylinder's valve, I really had to back it off a good bit and all of a sudden, the engine is running WAY differently. Different in a GOOD way! The cylinder had sprung back to life!

Like the instructions said, I went through the valves about 4 or 5 times, listening for any that were louder than others. None were. When I was satisfied, I killed the engine and put the valve cover back on with a new gasket. Once every thing was in place, I fired the car up again, set the timing and took her for a victory lap. Drove, sounded, felt like a totally different car. Smooth and quiet! No more pffft pffft sound (which I'm going to guess was the miss on the dead cylinder). AND it doesn't smell like rich gas anymore either!

Later in the morning, I took it up the big hill on the highway and no stalling during idle! I even shut it off and started it right back up again!

However, I went to lunch at a pizza place at about 9,000 ft. elevation today and after about 45 minutes I did have a little bit of trouble getting the car to start and idle. I figure that might be heat soak for real (as opposed to dead cylinder like before).

So, I want to say thanks to everyone for their advice and help with my issue. I really do appreciate it. And I have to say I am one happy hack shade tree mechanic today!

That is good news, Very cool!

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Oops, no such a line. That's a fuel bowl vent. The difference is subtle but important.
Some of them. And at idle and engine shutoff the rest of them would be forced into the carburetor bowl, spoiling the effect you're trying to achieve. Don't do it this way. If you are determined to tap into one of the vent lines going to the charcoal can, make it the fuel tank vent line, as close to the tank as possible.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.