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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 10:35 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2002 7:57 am
Posts: 81
Location: Yorktown, VA.
Car Model:
Still waiting for the last pieces of the puzzle (15x6 rallyes and tires plus caliper bolts for the spindles) but am very close!!

I am using 1981 LeBaron calipers (larger 2.76 bore pistons) and am using a new raybestos M/C from a 1974 drum/disc Dart. I bought a new factory type drum/disc prop valve and all new front brake lines/hoses too. I am also putting in all new ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, upper control arm bushings and cam adjusting bolts too. I figured do it right the first time and not worry about it later.

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 Post subject: Omaha
PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 7:58 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Sat May 05, 2007 4:23 pm
Posts: 19
Location: Omaha,Ne
Car Model:
Hey 3DW,
Is this Chris ? Anyway since I am also in Omaha I would like to see the finished product as I am contemplating the disc conversion for my 66'. I even have a donor car lined up.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 11:55 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:12 am
Posts: 21
Location: Alton,il
Car Model:
Quote:
It would work fine and you should not need an adjustable pushrod. The piston in the cylinder ends up in the same spot relative to the firewall with the adapter plate.

You should use residual pressure valves with drum brakes. There is talk about how they are not needed if the wheel cylinders have expanders. Save yourself the trouble and be safe. Just use them. They do shorten up pedal travel a fair amount too, and that alone is a big reason to use them.

Having the pedal get mushy while the fluid level in the master rises is just a hassle no one needs, and thats what happens when the wheel cylinders start gulping air.

I have seen new wheel cylinders lately that DO NOT have the expanders, they were Centric brand. With all the imported junk in the market things like this are not getting better.

I upgraded my brakes to disc, I used a 72 dart MC w/disc and 10 in rear drums cardone part number 10-1627,(not sure of the bore size) but the effort is easy, how-ever i do not have a full pedal as i did with drum brakes.. I called MPbrakes and asked them if I needed a residual valve in the line for the rear, they told me i did NOT need it since my MC was above the wheel Clys?
what would i need to do to get a full traveling pedal? I was also told i may need to go with a larger bore MC..

any suggestions?


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