Slant Six Forum :: Slant Six Camshaft,, Racer Brown

: Dave Thanks for the reply. Did you make the
: adapter yourself or did you have someone
: else make it? Any idea if I could have one
: made and the cost? Were you able to retain
: headers with the low starter location?
:
: Rick

: Rick
: Sorry for delay in response. I used an old
: block and crank and knocked the locating
: dowels out of the block. Then I cut a flat
: piece of .300 mild steel the same shape as
: the 340 belhousing. I mounted a transmission
: to the BH and fit all the parts together on
: the floor. I then marked the dowel holes on
: my adapter plate and then drilled them. Then
: I used the dowels back into the stock
: bellhousing and located the other holes I
: needed. I ended up having to use 4 or 5
: countersunk grade 8 allen head bolts for the
: areas where the 340 housing overlapped the
: /6 pattern. I then used the tilton starter
: in the /6 location. If I was doing it again
: I would use the 440 BIG housing (11 inch
: flywheel) so there should be less overlap.
: My Hooker Headers clear the bellhousing but
: not the Z bar. I had to beat a couple of
: tubes that I should have welded and
: relocated. They are real close. ?'s
: Stan

: No because the Lakewood BH has a block plate
: that is around .2 or .25 thick anyway. I
: needed the extra material to make the
: countersunk bolts work. I have had zero
: problems with the flywheel/clutch/disk setup
: in the car. If you want to, call me at 757
: 898 7469 and we can discuss anything else
: about the setup.

: Where did you get the adapter plate and what
: did it set you back$$
:
: Thanks, Rick

Author:	Dave M [ Mon Dec 24, 2001 2:58 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Shifting Stan
Quote: : Dave Thanks for the reply. Did you make the : adapter yourself or did you have someone : else make it? Any idea if I could have one : made and the cost? Were you able to retain : headers with the low starter location? : : Rick I had Mark Goodman help with with the adapter plate. He is another racer back east with a green Lancer that is very helpfull.The biggest expence was the scatter shield. Mark dialed in the new scatter shield with his cylinder block and had .008" run out. He than told me to recheck the run out with my cylinder block. I had over .060" I than recenterd the scatter shield and ended up with .009" Guess what I am trying to say is that these plates are not that hard to build. All you need is a chuck of aluminum and a dial indiactor. As far as the hedders ? I changed so many things on the car that I didn't even try the using my old hedders. These were the full length Clifford hedders. I just took my time and built some. damuel@kalama.com

Author:	Stan Aiton [ Tue Dec 25, 2001 7:55 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Shifting Stan
Rick Sorry for delay in response. I used an old block and crank and knocked the locating dowels out of the block. Then I cut a flat piece of .300 mild steel the same shape as the 340 belhousing. I mounted a transmission to the BH and fit all the parts together on the floor. I then marked the dowel holes on my adapter plate and then drilled them. Then I used the dowels back into the stock bellhousing and located the other holes I needed. I ended up having to use 4 or 5 countersunk grade 8 allen head bolts for the areas where the 340 housing overlapped the /6 pattern. I then used the tilton starter in the /6 location. If I was doing it again I would use the 440 BIG housing (11 inch flywheel) so there should be less overlap. My Hooker Headers clear the bellhousing but not the Z bar. I had to beat a couple of tubes that I should have welded and relocated. They are real close. ?'s Stan stan12311@home.com

Author:	Rick [ Wed Dec 26, 2001 6:26 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Shifting Stan
Quote: : Rick : Sorry for delay in response. I used an old : block and crank and knocked the locating : dowels out of the block. Then I cut a flat : piece of .300 mild steel the same shape as : the 340 belhousing. I mounted a transmission : to the BH and fit all the parts together on : the floor. I then marked the dowel holes on : my adapter plate and then drilled them. Then : I used the dowels back into the stock : bellhousing and located the other holes I : needed. I ended up having to use 4 or 5 : countersunk grade 8 allen head bolts for the : areas where the 340 housing overlapped the : /6 pattern. I then used the tilton starter : in the /6 location. If I was doing it again : I would use the 440 BIG housing (11 inch : flywheel) so there should be less overlap. : My Hooker Headers clear the bellhousing but : not the Z bar. I had to beat a couple of : tubes that I should have welded and : relocated. They are real close. ?'s : Stan Did you have any problems with the .300 adapter setting the transmission back to far? Or did you compensate for that some how? rcovalt@innernet.net

Author:	Stan Aiton [ Wed Dec 26, 2001 7:11 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Shifting Stan
No because the Lakewood BH has a block plate that is around .2 or .25 thick anyway. I needed the extra material to make the countersunk bolts work. I have had zero problems with the flywheel/clutch/disk setup in the car. If you want to, call me at 757 898 7469 and we can discuss anything else about the setup. STAN12311@HOME.COM

Author:	Rick [ Wed Dec 26, 2001 12:27 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Shifting Stan
Quote: : No because the Lakewood BH has a block plate : that is around .2 or .25 thick anyway. I : needed the extra material to make the : countersunk bolts work. I have had zero : problems with the flywheel/clutch/disk setup : in the car. If you want to, call me at 757 : 898 7469 and we can discuss anything else : about the setup. Thanks Stan, You have been a great help! Just one other question and then if I need to ask any other questions I will call you by phone. I'm not familiar with the Tilton Starter? What it is? Is it in the stock location or low 340 location? I'd rather spend a little more money now and have a clutch/Pressure plate set-up that will work than to go with a slant/6 set-up that will give us a bunch of trouble. It sounds like you have a good set-up. Thanks for sharing your expertise. I'm sure there are a few others that still want to retain their 4-speeds as we do. Rick rcovalt@innernet.net

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Author:	Stan Aiton [ Wed Dec 26, 2001 2:08 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Shifting Stan
Rick The Tilton starter is just like the current crop of aftermarket starters. It's based on a diesel forklift starter motor and it needs NO nose support. It's light and it saves having to include some sort of nose for your starter! I mount mine in the stock location. Just transfer the starter holes from the stock belhousing and your ready to go. By the way, I drilled all my holes using a drill in a Black and Decker drill press mount and the run out was fine. Just go slow and it will be fine. The trick I think, was to get it square the first time and a new pilot bushing helps to center the input shaft. I'll rather eat worms than race an automatic. Just kidding all you auto guys! (wimps)

Author:	Dart270 [ Wed Dec 26, 2001 5:39 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Shifting Stan
Quote: : Where did you get the adapter plate and what : did it set you back$$ : : Thanks, Rick Rick, My plate is out of a pre-68 pickup or van with an A727-A and Slant six. This was before they made Slant Six 727's. It is a cast iron piece 1.125" thick with a matching spacer ring for the flexplate. Don't know if they used these on manuals. Weigh's 20 lbs for both parts so that's not too bad. I got it at a swap meet for $20. You can find them in junkyards too. Cheers, Lou

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