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Master cylinder rebuild cost????
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32849		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Dec 17, 2008 5:35 pm ]
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...c'mon, I can't do it all for ya! :-D

Let your fingers do the walking. Google's your friend. RockAuto has it. Probably you can find one locally with a few phone calls. Hit the Raybestos website and see if they have a "Find a dealer" section. It's a very common American brand of brake parts.
Author:  Joe Colby [ Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:39 am ]
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Sorry Dan, it's just that you guys know everything there is to know about these (OK, that's a real suck up). I'll try and do some of this on my own. Do you want to drive south a little and help me put it on???
Thanks again.
Joe
Author:  Dizzydean [ Sun Dec 21, 2008 8:31 am ]
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Hi Guys, I was reading this and wondered if I did something wrong or missed a part somewhere. I replaced the master on my 67 with a unit for the same year(s) that stated manual with front disc after changing the front end to disc. There was no block or proportioning valve listed or visible. Did I miss something here :?: :?: I havent had any problems with stopping as in grabbing to a side or the backs locking up or..... As said before this board ROCKS :bow:
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Dec 21, 2008 9:06 am ]
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'67+ cars were factory-equipped with distribution blocks set up for dual master cylinders.
Author:  robertob [ Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:55 pm ]
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I've found that the stock '67-'72 distribution block makes the swap more difficult, not easier. The dual MC block requires replacing the flare nuts on four of the five lines with new ones, so it's only really feasible if you are replacing all of the hard lines (or really enjoy making double flares under the car)

My favorite way to do it is to use a 3/16 to 3/16 female inverted flare (IF) union and a 3/16 male IF plug. Remove the rear line from the stock 4-way distribution block and plug the resulting hole with the male IF plug. Then connect the union to the stock rear hard line. Bend two new lines from the MC to the stock distribution block (use a flare nut with a 3/16 bore but 1/4-size threads) and to the union (use a standard 3/16 flare nut).

Hope that makes sense. You need to get the special flare nuts for the MC lines - grab the short hard lines from a Dippy or other M-body mopar in the junkyard. They're too short for use in an older mopar, but the nuts are the right size.

If you're determined to do it with the OEM parts I have one of the distribution blocks with most of its flare nuts I can sell you cheap :)
Author:  robertob [ Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:06 pm ]
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oh yeah, the '67 up block mounts in a different place than the early block so all of the lines won't match up. Better to do it the way I mentioned unless you are a masochist.
Author:  steponmebbbboom [ Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:25 pm ]
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Quote:
(or really enjoy making double flares under the car)
do not use a flaring tool on old brake lines. the sealing surface (the flare) needs to be fresh, unrusted and unpitted metal for a proper seal.
Author:  wjajr [ Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:58 pm ]
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steponmebbbboom:
Quote:
do not use a flaring tool on old brake lines. the sealing surface (the flare) needs to be fresh, unrusted and unpitted metal for a proper seal
Check out where this guy is from. Me thinks he wants to sell a little extra steel during these tuff times...


Just kidding!

Never mind that man behind the curtain. Do what he said.
Author:  robertob [ Fri Jan 09, 2009 10:09 am ]
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Yeah, good point. I've only had to re-flare an original line once, when a nut was rounded off too badly to tighten (even with vicegrips) but it was on a CA car with minty steel lines.

So in other words, do not try to use the '67 splitter unless you're buying all new lines.
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