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motor oil
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Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:58 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
the crane cam I just bought for my smallblock recomends not using an sm or sl rated oil
That doesn't make any sense. The worry over SM-rated oil in flat-tappet engines is questionable, but there's never been any worry over SL-rated oil.
Author:  urr-lord [ Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:36 am ]
Post subject: 
i run valvoline max hi mileage in my 82 slant truck.it stopped my startup smoke issue and lessened engine noise.smoothed it out a bit.i love a smooth inline six.
Author:  ceej [ Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:18 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
As for Moly... additives that oils like Royal Purple utilize- the question there to me is whether there is a risk of the additive... precipitating out of the oil.
Interesting question!

When I was in the Motorcycle industry, (Family Business,) I remember some snippets where dad and the mechanics talked about GTX and Moly additives building up in some air cooled engines. This was over a very long period of time. High mileage BMW boxers and Guzzis.

Dad began recommending use of Torco Moly every other oil change with regular torco motor oil. He also recommended the same cycle with the Castrol GTX.

I remember seeing a Beamer motor that the oil returns were almost completely plugged up with the stuff. Keep in mind, this was in a high mileage air cooled engine. The temperature of the engines run much hotter than a water cooled application, so having additives come out of solution may not be an issue in our cars under normal conditions.


On the other subject, when I ran my engine in, my builder supplied an additive from Crane cams. He said once the break in was complete, there was no need for additional additives. He spoke to Erson about this prior to making the recommendation.

CJ
Author:  Pierre [ Fri Feb 06, 2009 3:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm on the hunt for a new oil as my supplies are dwindling. I've been running chevron 10w-30 SM + 1 cup of the old GM EOS as per this post of Dan's.

That article by the corvair's owner suggests ci-4 for the most zddp. Problem is, in my hunt, I've found ci-4 is made of unobtanium let alone in 10w-30. Seems the newer cj-4 has taken over. And even then, finding one in 10w-30 may get difficult.

Also Dan's post mentions 0.10%-0.12% zddp is ideal - thing is, spec for cj-4 is 0.12% max. So why wouldn't a cj-4 oil work well?

Shell synthetic 5w-40 is available commonly at auto parts stores. Rotella diesel oil 15w-40 is also common. Rotella 10w-30 exists but not so common - only places I've come across for those are a shell distributor or walmart. All cj-4.
Author:  Mopar-or-no-car [ Sat Feb 07, 2009 5:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
if you really are wanting a 10w-30 mobil 1 high mileage 10w-30 is a more robust oil, and would do well in the slant. Rotella(shell),delo (chevron) and delvac(mobil) also come in the 10w-30 flavor. Motorcraft heavy duty (hdmo)10w-30 isnt to shabby either.

I still like and stand behind the shell rotella t 5w-40 synthetic its readily available, and works great and turns in good uoa
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Feb 07, 2009 6:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
if you really are wanting a 10w-30 mobil 1 high mileage 10w-30 is a more robust oil, and would do well in the slant.
Hey, wait a sec, I thought you said even the Mobil-1 "high mileage" formula lacks sufficient ZDDP...
Quote:
I still like and stand behind the shell rotella t 5w-40 synthetic its readily available, and works great and turns in good uoa
I've used it with good results.
Author:  volaredon [ Sat Feb 07, 2009 7:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
:twisted: Remember the debates sparked from the no-longer-made Arco "Graphite"? My Dad used to mix 2 qts of that and 3 qts of a name brand of the same weight (never Q-S though) but Pennz, Valvoline Havoline etc whichever he found on sale theat week and never "store-brand" on every oil change.
Not looking to add a "fly to the ointment" or anything, I'm not saying whether it was "good" or "bad" (though that Graphite oil, was harder to clean off of your hands when spilled onto them than regular oil) I know that Dan does not like this viscosity of oil but I continue to run name brand 10W40 Dino oil with good results so far! I have never used a synthetic in an engine or a trans (other than ATF+4, I believe that is synthetic, right?) but I have in differentials.
Author:  Mopar-or-no-car [ Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Dan read my posts again I said mobil 1 5w-30 NOT Mobil 1 10w-30 High mileage huge diff in additive packs yes the high mileage is a great syn 10w-30 for those wanting the such it is group 4 also.

ATF+4 is synthetic yes
Author:  paul_sak [ Sat Feb 07, 2009 9:46 pm ]
Post subject:  does it matter?
I can't help but to wonder, "does it really matter". I've gotta think none of us are beating the snot out of our engines anymore. Except for the racers, we're mostly babying the engines and changing the oil frequently. Back when all my daily drivers were slants and I was hard on the engine I never gave this stuff a second thought. I bought "name brand" oil, changed it regularly and never had an oil-related failure.

OK, here in 2009, oil technology has improved but the additive package has been turned down. But are these oil debates theororetical and do they truly matter in the real world?
Author:  Pierre [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 12:17 am ]
Post subject: 
Dan / Mopar-or-no-car - the synthetic rotella 5w-40 you guys used, was it the CJ-4 version? How often did you change it, and do you mind posting the UOA?
Author:  Mopar-or-no-car [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 12:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm going to have to do some searching as my uoa's arent coming up on bitogf, so I will look around here for the hard copies, but here is some.

here is a subaru wrx non flat tappet (so a Heavy duty engine oil should be LESS important in this engine), that does a used oil analysis for the mobil1 5w-30 vs rotella t 5w-40. This is the oil I had poor used oil analysis with in my jeep inline 4.0l flat tappet motor, as opposed to the rotella 5w-40, which came out stellar.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... 02&fpart=1

another roller
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... 02&fpart=1

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... 81&fpart=1

here is another uao with 4 different oils being tested hmm the lowest wear metal uoa is with the rotella the only hdeo
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... 49&fpart=1

here is a good mobil 1 used oil analysis, I actually think mobil1 is a good oil, I just feel the 5w-30 is less than adequate in any engine especially flat tappets this uoa is for mobil 1 10w-30 high mileage this IS a Flat Tappet Motor.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... 84&fpart=1

here are some VOA virgin oil analysis (unused oil)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... ost1071129


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... ost1248595

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... ost1119052
Author:  Mopar-or-no-car [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 12:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I'm on the hunt for a new oil as my supplies are dwindling. I've been running chevron 10w-30 SM + 1 cup of the old GM EOS as per this post of Dan's.

That article by the corvair's owner suggests ci-4 for the most zddp. Problem is, in my hunt, I've found ci-4 is made of unobtanium let alone in 10w-30. Seems the newer cj-4 has taken over. And even then, finding one in 10w-30 may get difficult.

Also Dan's post mentions 0.10%-0.12% zddp is ideal - thing is, spec for cj-4 is 0.12% max. So why wouldn't a cj-4 oil work well?

Shell synthetic 5w-40 is available commonly at auto parts stores. Rotella diesel oil 15w-40 is also common. Rotella 10w-30 exists but not so common - only places I've come across for those are a shell distributor or walmart. All cj-4.
I have about 4 gallons left of rotella t ci-4, but i can tell you don't sweat using rotella t synthetic cj-4, yes zinc and phos are down as to new api regs for diesels. but the over all zddp and level of additives is still far above sm oils (still very high zinc and phos)and more than enough for the leaning tower of power slant....
Author:  heckshemi [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 7:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
I bought a case of Valvoline 10w30 VR1 racing oil. SH/CD on the box. On the bottles it says contains zddp but it doesn't say how much.
I got it a NAPA. You have to ask for it as they usually only carry the 20w50 on the shelves.
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Mon Feb 09, 2009 5:50 am ]
Post subject: 
I did a oil change last week on my van. It was a coctail of what I had laying around. 3 quarts of NAPA 10-30 (private label Valvoline) 2 quarts of Walmart 5-30, 1/2 quart of 15-40 Valvoline diesel oil, and 1 quart of the old unobtanium STP oil "stabilizer." I bought all of that I could afford as STP quit making it.

I believe the stabilizer is high in ZDDP.

My cam is a Comp RV 252* .425" lift.
Author:  Pierre [ Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
I've seen some OA's like this one of the RTS show lower calcium, higher magnesium levels. Apparently the accuracy of the report is questionable, but I thought I saw similar calcium/magnesium numbers in other reports for the RTS.

I think I'll stick with the regular rotella 10w-30 CJ-4. Time to go empty walmarts shelves.
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