A couple things -

64 Convert is right: a good crimp junction is superior to the average solder junction in applications (planes, trains, cars) that move and vibrate.

Wjajr is also right: the cheapy consumer-grade "wire pliers and 250 terminals for $15.99" stuff commonly available at parts stores and discount stores are junk.

It's plain common sense that a good junction of either type is better than a bad junction of either type. A good crimped and soldered junction may or may not be the best of all.

Obtaining a good crimp junction requires buying a real/good crimp tool and real/good terminals, but only a small amount of practise.

Obtaining a good solder junction requires buying a perfectly serviceable, decent-quality solder gun + solder and miscellaneous supplies but needs a <i>great</i> deal of practise.

Obtaining a good crimped-and-soldered junction requires nontrivial expense and a great deal of practise (whee!).

I don't get enough practise soldering to be much more than a menace with a soldering gun, but one thing I do know is the importance of correctly twisting the wire ends together. It's not just any ol' twist, it's a particular technique wherein the wires are brought together at a shallow angle and the ends are wrapped securely around each other, creating almost a straight-line junction rather than a pointy twist as commonly found in household junctions.

Interesting discussions and articles here and this adjunct here (if you read nothing else, read these two…also see this guy's big list of articles here; many of them apply directly to automotive work). Also here and here and here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan , Yeah I don't plan on doing much soldering anyway, but if I plan to ,I want to know how to do it right . Thanks for the articles

Dave

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81 Dodge D150
It looked easier in the book .

Dan, nice pile of nerdly reading, thanks, very informative.

One concept I have to keep in mind when messing with a car built using slide rules, and friction tape is; unless every connection, terminal, and conductor is updated to the latest strain relived, weather tight device, and high performance insulated conductor, my patch methods will hold up. They may not be up to air craft industry, or exotic car racing standards, but neither are the wiring methods coming out of Detroit (read every day iron) these days. This is not to say welcomed giant strides haven't been made in reliability in regards to a cars electrical systems.

With my car, cycles to failure on whatever I have molested with my soldering iron and crimp tools, probably will never be reached in my life time.

One more observation; some of the ranting in red was referring to new bench work, not upside down under the dash repairs where the little torch may not be appropriate. Remember some parts of one's car may be combustable.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Wjajr & SSD,
In previous posts and the articles posted earlier, much stress is placed on quality crimp-on connectors. Can either of you suggest a good brand? I know little about electrical work, so my knowledge of reputable brands and suppliers is somewhat limited. Also, I intend to shrink wrap my connections (HEI upgrade, here we come), so I assume I don't need the insulated type connectors?

Thanks,

Nat

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1970 four-door Dart, 225/A-904/2.45 gears. 0-60 in twenty three minutes!

AMP was the highest quality supplier when I was in the business. Here's a link to one site, but they can be found all over.


http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/cata ... 0576,17560