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| 60 Valiant suspension Qs https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33631 |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:38 pm ] |
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'62-'66 pitman arm is not the same as '67, and not the same as '68-'72, and not the same as '73-'76. Different P/N for '60-'61, too. |
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| Author: | Michael [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 5:25 pm ] |
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I have found that P/Ns are sometimes are not a good guide. When the arm looks identical in a side by side comparison, I begin to wonder about how often part numbers were superseded for no apparent reason. I just like to solicit real world experience 'cuz sometimes the numbers lie.  I really appreciate the exchanges because I have no other sounding boards.Cheers - M |
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| Author: | HyperValiant [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:19 pm ] |
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Im not sure about the spline count on the later pitman arm but the shaft that goes into the centerlink is smaller than the the 63 up cars. This is what I have done to my 60 Valiant to upgrade it some some without a complete re-design, 1. Had the original steering box(20 to 1 ratio) rebuilt by Steer and Gear. 2.Installed adjustable tubular upper control arms from CAP Auto. 3.rebuilt front suspension with new parts from Just Suspension.The parts were NOS and not items that they make so they may or may not have anymore. 4.Installed 73-76 A-body lower ball joints(yes,they will fit the 60 lower control arm). 5.Installed f-body spindles with the 11 inch rotor(be carefull as this disk setup is wider overall than the the drum setup,so you will have to watch the backspacing of your front wheels. 6.Installed 63-66 outer tie rod ends to mate with the later ball joint. 7.installed an 7/8 front sway bar from Addco for a 60 Valiant but plan on adapting a Addco 1 1/8 bar for a 63-66 Abody. 8.Installed KYB shocks. Hope this Helps,Im sure there are some things I leftout so feel free to p.m. me. HyperValiant |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:55 pm ] |
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Quote: I have found that P/Ns are sometimes are not a good guide.
Right. That's why I said the pitman arms are different for '62-'66 vs. '67 vs. '68-'72 vs. 73-'76, but said the pitman arm part number is different for '62 vs. '60-'61: I'm sure of the actual differences after '66, not sure of the actual difference before '62. Remember, '62 was the first year for sealed steering pivots lengthening the lube interval from 4k to 32k miles, so it could potentially be that the only difference from '61-'62 is the construction of the pivot.
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| Author: | Michael [ Fri Feb 06, 2009 10:17 am ] |
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"That's why I said the pitman arms are different for '62-'66 vs. '67 vs. '68-'72 vs. 73-'76, but said the pitman arm part number is different for '62 vs. '60-'61" Oop, sometimes reading the computer screen causes me to miss the most obvious points. Thank you Hypervaliant, that is what I was afraid of after my first cursory comparison of the arms. I'll do a little more undercar investigation. I did find a reference to the lca/strut rod swap in issue#38 of the old SSN! Doug Dutra writes: "I've known people to put the 62-66 (really 62-72) lower control arms on early Valiants and Lancers. The only thing needed is a notch-out on the unibody frame rails to clear the head of the torsion bar adjusting arms. A small die grinder is all that is needed." That info alone is a big help. Thanks retroactive to Dec. 1989 Doc! |
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| Author: | Michael [ Sat Feb 07, 2009 6:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | progress |
I had to give up on my idea of swaping later idler and pitman arms into the 60. The early idler mount is almost identical to the 68-72 idler mount. That gave me the idea to use 68 - 72 idler and pitman arms with 63-66 centre link and so forth. But the early steering box has a smaller spline making this idea a no go.  On a better note I was able to install the steering column from a 63 Dart with amazing ease! I found that the wiring plug was identical down to the same number and colour of the wires. The splines on the output shaft didn't change so that went on easily as well. The column housing diameter is smaller where it mounts under the instrument cluster but that was solved with some extra thick rubber. I did use a steering box from a 61 with the short output shaft because the original box was worn and leaky. I think that this swap may work with the long shaft box if you used a power steering shaft, but you would have to measure. I have decided to go with bbp power disc brakes so the suspension will be a few days in coming together. This car is pretty beat up so I feel okay with some Frankenstein-type methods to get her going. I will post pics in a day or two. |
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| Author: | HyperValiant [ Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:43 pm ] |
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Michael,In my opinion I wouldnt use power brakes on an A-body as I feel they are light enough not to need the extra assist.I have been driving my 63 Dart for three years with non power disks and my Daughter has been driving her 72 Valiant for 8 months with non power disks and both of them stop extremely well. If you do decide to run power assist be careful which booster you use as there isnt much room where it is suppose to be.I cant use power assist on my 60 because Im using a HyperPak intake and with a booster the carb and master cylinder would want occupy the same space. HyperValiant |
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| Author: | Michael [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 7:58 am ] |
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Thanks for the input! I have a complete power boosted 75 disc set-up on my 63 Val and have liked it alot, but I agree that it is far from necessary. I have several of the later style boosters handy and the lines to go with 'em so it is kinda' tempting. I'll test fit for clearance before making the final call. I'm planning a super six set-up and clearance shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for your interest! |
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