Nope, didn't change the valve cover. It is still the "ribbed" style. I don't know if it is the original valve cover or not, but the grime and gunk buildup on the engine makes me think it is untouched and original. Of course, who knows after 35 years....

Yeah, that's an older valve cover. I think they look better than the later flat one myself.

Ohh, you're going to butt weld the new corner section. I think I would have flanged the car side and lap welded the new section. Flanging pliers are the only other tool you'd need.

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Joshua

Uh oh, we already cut the metal too small to flange. I'll go slow and not weld too much in one place. I ordered some of those fancy panel clamps Eastwood sells to hold the two panels together while it is tacked in place, and I am using JW Harris "Twenty Gauge" cored wired. Hopefully it will turn out okay in the end. We're not going for show-quality work, but it needs to look presentable.

Reed you could use a "backer" strip to tie it together and have a little something to burn into,couldn't hurt

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

I plan on doing that in a few places. I see some Bondo in the future....

Okay, don't laugh too hard. This is the first time I have ever tried this type of welding before.



This is actually the second pass over that particular joint. The first pass was done with no backing metal behind the joint and was a simple butt-weld, but with a 1/8 or so gap between the panels. Ugly and most of it didn't work.

So I tried using a metal patch piece behind the joint and the weld went much better.

That one weld is all we got done, but it feels good to finally be moving on this corner of the car. Lots of Bondo work in the future, but it should come out OK for a daily driver.

Those panel clamps from Eastwood are really cool, and VERY helpful in aligning everything.

If you have some copper strip or sheet you can put behind the joint it will help a lot. Eastwood sells copper spoons for this kind of welding.

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Joshua

Thanks Josh. I am actually using pieces of the dented portion that I cut out as a backer to the joint. So far it seems to be working well. The real test will be when I try and weld the bottom seam.

It might be a good idea to weld the piece in several spots around the perimeter before you stitch any one seam up solid. That way the warping will be less likely to open up nasty gaps and screw up your pretty fit.

Cool duster!

radar in philly

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madam im adam

Thanks for the advice and encouragement. I am trusting to Bondo to take care of making it look good. Now that the piece is held by that first seam, I will jump around to different spots to minimize warping.

I was speaking with a gentleman about this welding project and he mentioned a neat trick- he said I should try using a wire coathanger (with all the paint stripped off) as filler in the big gap. The coathanger woudl act as filler metal as well as assist in dispersing heat buildup. I am going to give it a shot. My welding skill are not the best, and I don't want to have to go back and grind everything down more than necessary. This coathanger idea sounds like it might be just the ticket.

Don't use a coat hanger! Use the proper rod for whatever welding setup you have. The coat hanger metal is full of impurities and will make poor welds.

For example, with my gas setup, I would use the smith 201 tip and copper coated steel rod. The patch panel should have a gap about the width of the rod from the parent panel.

The trick is to fill the gap. To do that you tack and let cool. Each tack should be on the opposite end from the last. Once you have tacks every inch, you can start filling in between. Remember to go slow and let stuff cool off berfore proceeding.

Thanks! Like I said, this is my first time doing this sort of welding, so I really appreciate any and all suggestions.

I am currently using .030 gauge wire of the "Twenty Gauge" brand sold by JW Harris/Perfect Circle. It has worked well for me in the past on the few bits of sheetmetal I have welded. Should I try a thinnner wire? It was recommended to me that I try a .023 wire.

Thinner wire is better (easier) for thin gauge metal

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

OK. I will go to the local welding shop and see if I can scare up some thinner wire and the correct tip for my welder. Thanks!