You can do the math............

http://www.aptfast.com/KN_Additional_St ... _facts.htm

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Hi Guys,
I need to install a tachometer and start keeping track of shift points. Also the K&N air filter part # is ( E-1000 )....Next time I am at the track I will switch from Paper filter to K&N and see if I can measure a difference...The induction sound is greater ( and I like that ) with the K&N and it's staying...just a preference..thats all.
I made 12 runs at the track and 10 of those were at 75mph....2 were 74mph because I tried to raise the timing. I could hear, in the exhaust tone when I added a few degrees, that it might not help. After the 74mph runs I set it back to 3 degrees BTDC and got my 75mph back.
OK, next is Electronic ignition/HEI and back to the strip to see how it improves...Then at some point I want to mill the head...should I aim for a true 8.5 CR using the stock cam or can I go more?? the more I think about it the more I want to stay with the stock holley 1 barrel, kinda using the F.A.S.T. approach on this Valiant. Thanks guys for all the input and help...I think the combination of this cars light weight and good tuning is really making this car fun...and to think, my GLH Turbo drag car is sitting in the garage collecting dust! Thanks, nico

Also, a couple of the online HP calculators are telling me that I am making just shy of 100HP at the wheels. I dynoed the car a year ago and got 80HP. I just can't justify paying $75.00 for another 3 pull session to verify so I will continue at the strip and calculate HP...The HP increase will be direct result of opening up the exhaust cut out at the strip a valvelash adjustment and carb tuning since the dyno day!

Another note, plugs 2 through 6 are all looking good with a light brown color...number one is a little darker. Is this from the constant fan wash?
thanks again, nico

I'm running true 8.5:1 with a stock '67 cam and it pings a little, but it also uses some oil which doesn't help the pinging situation at all. If you ran pump premium you could probably get away with 9:1. I have recurved my distributor so I could run more initial timing and not have too much timing at high RPM. I still need to do more experimenting with timing. I think a little less mechanical and more vacuum would help me.

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Joshua

Joshua, what grade of gas are you running in your '67? Curious, also, have you weighed your car?
I will consider 9 to 1 , I don't mind running premium if needed.

I've been running 89 pump octane mid-grade. The '67 cam is shorter duration than the '72 and later cam so that's something in your favor. The oil usage due to worn cylinders and rings and increased compression ratio is what I believe to be causing the pinging.

My car was 2950 when I had 14" steel wheels, 10.87" disc brakes (standard late A-body), 7 1/4 rear axle and a nearly full tank of gas. I now have 17" wheels/tires, 8 1/4 axle and Wilwood calipers on 11.75" rotors. A lawn tractor battery and mini starter are the only real weight saving parts. The car was lighter with the 9" drums, but I like good brakes. Car has almost no options. No radio, lighter, etc. I could take out a few pounds if I took the rubber floor mat out from under the carpet and I really should.

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Joshua

Next I am going to concentrate on the exhaust downpipe....A friend is going to help me make 2 custom downpipes. A 2" and 2 1/4", both with a smoother radius as it exits and makes the short run under the car. Also a little porting on the exhaust outlet to make it just over 2" inside diameter. Since it is a torque motor and the one barrel is staying , he has theories about going to big on the exhaust at this time hence the 2 experimental sizes. In the process of the EI conversion as I type also....So I should have a really nice tuned exhaust and a better spark for the next track day....80 MPH here I come..nico

K&N have less restriction because they don't filter as well.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I found a few hp by leaning the carb out from the stock jetting, your dyno guy should have told you if it was rich though when you had it on the dyno.

Sounds like fun. I like the idea if keeping the 1 barrel, its kind of like keeping the slant instead of a V8. How did you get your car weight down? Or is that near stock weight? I don't know what my '74 weighs but I know they are heavier than '71-'72's.

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

New digital scale at the race track showed 2650 for my '72 Valiant....I had the trunk totally emptied out including the spare tire and jack...My car is a factory radio delete so there is a few more pounds saved...it only has power steering....9 inch drums all around helps too I suppose...
I was very surprised when I saw the read out...I didn't think it was that light... a few more things will help shed a few more pounds such as....nipondenso high torque starter (it looks like a toy put it sure cranks the slant with authority), aluminum intake manifold in place of the iron one, and maybe a fiberglass hood...I think I can get it to 2600 lbs and I need to lose a few lbs myself....I think I can realistically get it to 2750 race weight ,with me in it. 16 sec 1/4 mile times with the 1 barrel should be no problem...hope to be there this summer...nico