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Oil Pump Swap?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34456
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Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:22 pm ]
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Here is a linky to the pics. Pulled the pan tonight.

Whatcha think?

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... ost5133365

Author:  Joshie225 [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:50 pm ]
Post subject: 

Looks like the remnants of a rope type rear main seal. I hate those things.

I'd tear the engine down completely and get everything cleaned. Make sure the crank journals are within spec for size and roundness. I'd probably put it back together with new rings, bearings, timing set and oil pump.

I try not to do anything half way as I usually end up regretting it. Sometimes quickly, other times not, but cutting corners almost inevitably ends up with disappointment.

Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:21 am ]
Post subject: 

Right now is not the time to rebuild it. Money is very very tight. I have another engine sitting in the shop. It came with the 74 Duster I have.

I may pull it out and check it. These journals are IMO need turned.

What is strange I see no bearing metal anywhere.

Author:  Joshie225 [ Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:10 am ]
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It's impossible to tell from the picture if the crank needs to be turned or not. By the wear shown on that one rod bearing you probably need 6 new ones. You could put in a new rod bearing and check the clearance with Plastigauge. If the clearance is too great you're only out the cost of one rod bearing.

Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Thu Apr 09, 2009 7:24 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
It's impossible to tell from the picture if the crank needs to be turned or not. By the wear shown on that one rod bearing you probably need 6 new ones. You could put in a new rod bearing and check the clearance with Plastigauge. If the clearance is too great you're only out the cost of one rod bearing.

Rod bearings are $3.99 each. $49.98 for a set of 6 :roll: Guess how I am ordering them?

The rest of the rods and mains look great. I am not going to buy mains.

Pump looks good. I haven't checked it with a feeler gauge. It did have some shards of plastic between the gear and the piece around it. I am guessing it is from the distributor gear. (pickup must have a hole it it :(

Author:  Joshie225 [ Thu Apr 09, 2009 8:17 am ]
Post subject: 

Is that a stock aluminum body oil pump or an iron replacement?

Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Oil Pump Swap? Part Duex

Just got off the phone with the local machine shop. $70 to grind and polish the crank.


I am waiting for a guy that does mostly Mopar stuff call me back this evening.

For the van head I have been porting and polishing for an '80 slant S6 conversion. I asked about taking .060 off and new guides 5 angle on both valves. $140

Author:  rock [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 7:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Trucker, I know why SSD tells ya not to make prescriptions,

Trucker,

I know why SSD is emphatic about deciding what you want to accomplish before you go doing things. I agree. Yet experience shows me the value of taking off .100 instead of .060. You are already 60 percent of the way to what, if you have good valves, good crank, and play a little longer, you will probably wish you had done. Did you cc the chambers before deciding to mill .060? If not, milling that amount with no data is less defensible than doing the .100 that many of us here run with great success....after being able to breathe with good valves, porting, and so on. Heck if your top is built you can always put in a cam later if you want one. If you use the good aussie gasket you are putting on a thick spacer, ya know.

rock
'64d100

Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:54 am ]
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I have put a lot of time into that head. Too bad it isn't mine!!

Everything I am doing to it I would love to do to the head on my Dart. Just need the Dart back on the road. That van will never get a bigger cam.

I have a MP mild cam that I could put in the Dart. Not gonna happen. It's getting the Super Six + new freeze plugs.

I get this head cleaned up I will post some pics on Moparts with a link. I might CC it after it is milled.

Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:37 am ]
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Machine shop called. Rear main was .060.Needs to be welded. They have the right type that is .030 under ready to go for the $70 price to do mine.

Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:39 am ]
Post subject: 

Oh yeah my cam has some holes on the face. It may be getting the MP mild grind I bought 5 years ago.

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