Thanks Rock. All info helps. I just want to make sure that the mechanical head rear bolt won't be too much of a point of restriction to not allow the lifters to function properly. But it sounds like it should work.

Don't forget the hydraulic rocker arms have an extra hole toward the passenger side of the engine to allow oil to go down the push rods. The solid rocker shaft fills with oil..thats how oil gets to the valve stems. So I would think that an extra hole in the arm would not drop pressure that much, and oil will still get to the lifters. There is still only one hole in the rocker shaft that feeds both holes in a hydro head.

Okay, well, I guess I wil just give it a shot then. Thanks!

Reed
I would still go with the Hydro head rear bolt. I think it will let more oil by for the Hydro parts.
Just my 02.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

No way the hydro bolt will work in a mechanical head:



But what do you think about grinding a section of the mechanical rear bolt down to a smaller diameter at the point where it passes trough the bottom of the rocker shaft tube? Keep the top the same size and keep the lower threads the same size, but make the middle into an hourglass shape to improve oil flow into the rocker arm shaft? Alternatively, what about drilling the bottom hole in the rocker arm shaft to a larger diameter?

My question is a bit different. I put the peanut head on my sons dart and find that it should have the stepped bolt in the rear rocker hole. We are running this head on a solid lifter cam and rocker assembly. Must I drill out the rear hole to fit the larger bolt or can I just use a smaller grade 8 bolt and a washer? The stepped bolt was not with the head when we bought it. Or is this going to let too much oil to the rockers. I really don't want to drill it out if I don't have too.

Was planning to put this in the car tomorrow. So I would rather do this before I put it back in the car.

Thanks,

Rick Covalt

I think you can just use the smaller bolt and washer. Since you have a solid lifter cam, more oil isn't an issue. I am using a hydraulic lifter cam so i need to have enough oil to pump them up. Putting a hydro head on a mechanical motor is not an issue,it is going the other way that is.

Thanks Reed that's what I was thinking and hoping.

Rick

Reed
I like your idea about turning the bolt down(or grinding). I would think you could look at the head and valve train and determine where and how much to take off. BTW I have a few bolts if you end up needing a replacement.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

popcorn

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

If I had hydraulic valve gear and pushrods I'd convert one of my existing engines. I bought a set of juice slant lifters on fee-bay a while back; a custom cam is $70 plus tax and core charge. Sounds like fun.

_________________
Joshua

Am I too old to get it?

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Yup Charrlie
It took me awhile too. He means he is watchin this thread to see the out come.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

locking in emails to this thread...........

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Well, here is the plan-

I am getting a free dead hydraulic slant from 6shotvanner and my brother wants to put a hydraulic motor in his 74 Duster since he wants to never have to adjust the valves. However, my brother also wants to build a street performer out of the car, so we are going to use my big-valve head that has Ford 300 valves installed in it. The problem is the head came offof a 1972 198 motor, and therefore has the mechancical valve train rear bolt.

Looking at the diagram of the hydraulic cam passage in the hydraulic head leads me to believe that the whole purpose behind the modification to the rear bolt and the pocket for the rear bolt is to improve oil flow.

However, we all know that oil already flows into the rocker arm shaft on mechanical lifter motors because that is how the rocker arms get their oil. Thus, there is provisions on the mechanical head for oil to go to the same place as on the hydraulic head. The only difference is the rearmost bolt and bolt pocket. So if I grind the rearmost bolt on a mechanical head to an hourglass shape where the bolt passes through the bottom of the rocker arm shaft, then flow should be improved. It won't be as much as a factory hydraulic head, but it should be enough to keep the hydraulic lifters happy. I think I will be giving this a try.

Charlie- I think what Rugtrucker meant was: