I recommend you don't do either of those things. Water pump lube is neither necessary nor beneficial, because ordinary coolant contains plenty of water pump lubricant. And a cap of lower than specified pressure greatly hinders heat transfer from cylinder head and block metal to coolant, because of much more localised boiling. The radiator is the expensive part of the system; everything else is cheap and easy. If you suspect the hoses or the heater core or the water pump might be weak, replace 'em.

The exception to the "use the correct 13-16 pound cap" recommendation is with waterless coolant.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

me quoting me: Just repeating what my third generation radiator guy kept telling me to keep my high mileage service vehicles cool and rolling. This family has been in the biz since 1929. My initial comment was in regards to a worn out cooling system. If all the components are up to snuff they can take the pressure.

I do agree with Dan on local boiling. By lowering the pressure, boiling takes place at a lower temperature**. Additionally higher pressure allows for higher temperature differential ( delta T) when passing through the radiator which increases its cooling efficiency.

**This is why an over heated engine turns into a geyser when the pressure is suddenly lowered either by a hole in a hose, or the radiator cap being removed. The coolant goes through an instant phase change from hot liquid to steam, a very dangerous condition.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Yep, brand new in the box, I think I got mine from Advance Auto and got a lifetime warranty too. I just looked at Rock auto and they had it listed for $199.79, of course plus shipping ect... The "look up" I use is 1967 Dart 225 (NOT 170) no ac, which is the smaller of the 2 choices. You are looking for "PROLIANCE Part # 433354". In my previous post, I said I used the same hoses, I know the top hose is the same, I think I used another lower hose. If your lower hose won't work, a 67 will. I think I may have used a 77 Volare hose I had around.

When I ordered it I was prepared to cut and weld as I WAS NOT paying the $600 and waiting the 4 weeks that the "local rad shop" wanted. I drive my car every day, everywhere I go, unless I really "need" a truck, the car being "down" is unacceptable. I was very pleasantly surprised that it almost "bolted right in" with NO cutting or welding. I guess I should prolly drill a hole for the 4th bolt, but it has over 15k miles on the 3 bolts, so I haven't messed with it yet. I will prolly wait till I have the rad out for some other reason, then drill the hole, unless I have a really boring day at work lol.


TopHat

Just want to say thanks to all for the advice and choices, leaving Sunday on a 4 week cruise so it's going to have to wait till I get back.

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64 barracuda
64 valiant convertable
65 valiant sedan
65 signet
74 vw beetle convertable
79 E-250 4WD van
94 dodge dakota

radiator.com (1-800-radiator) has one for $99 and one for $299. You’d probably have to call them to figure out which one fits.

They’ve always been very reasonable with me in the past - just guessing, but I’d say the $99 one is the same one everyone else has for $199.

Danny

just called them and they said it's obsolete

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64 barracuda
64 valiant convertable
65 valiant sedan
65 signet
74 vw beetle convertable
79 E-250 4WD van
94 dodge dakota

When the radiator in my '64 - and my spare radiator - started having significant leaks, and cracks in the tanks, I put in a Volare/Aspen unit. Height is something of an issue, but it was a simple install. Worth a shot if you can't find something closer.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

New vs., used, for a few hundred bucks I don't know why anyone would mess with installing an old radiator, unless the car is being sold. After brakes, lug nuts & tires, I would rank a sound radiator #3 in importance to safe dependable operation of an automobile.

I remember as a kid there were two common side of the road brake downs: flat tires; and boiling over cooling systems. A two hundred mile trip would yield a half dozen of these side of the road mishaps. We never see this these days.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

That was the first thing I tried, but I couldn't get over the height issue in my Dart. I had a rad from a 77 Volare slant around, so that was the first thing I grabbed. That rad had survived a demo derby with only a tiny crack in the upper tank (an easy fix with hwd store plumbing stuff) so it would been kool to run for a while with it's "lattice" paint job, and patched tank battle scar. I figured I had it so it was "free" so it was the place to start. I couldn't get my hood closed so I moved on. I actually went through quite a bit of my rad pile without success, or who knows what could have wound up in there. I got on here and searched and found what wound up doing would work, and it does.

Nice to know it can be done, as I'm always looking for A bodies, and am sure many will be looking this way if the source of the 67 up is truly obsolete and gone.

I bet you can find all the brand new, bolt right in, look EXACTLY perfect E body rads you want, for a price of course.

Sorry 'bout the rant, Glad to know it can be done, I have to look in to it more thoroughly sometime.

TopHat