GD,

Remember the slave works of what is basically a standard master cylinder. I had a similar problem once to what you are talking about and found the master cylinder was leaking back past the piston. In time I am sure it would have shown inside the cab, but all it has to do is fail to apply pressure enough and you won't release from the pressure plate.
If you are wrestling around with this problem may not be a bad time to check that master. It will fail someday anyway. The slave failing is more obvious, but are you sure it is applying full stroke?

rock
64d100

I think you hit it with the slave. Installed another new clutch assembly and same problem! While I was messing around pushing the clutch in I suddenly lost the clutch pedal feel and when I climped underneath the truck the slave cylinder was leaking out by the rod end by the clutch fork. Maybe I had two problems. Waiting for new clutch slave cylinder at the moment.

Thks

Gettting close finally with new slave cylinder installed! I can shift from 1 -4 fairly easy with motor on. However, reverse grinds with motor on? Now the shift lever would not come out so I had to disconnect the rods at the transmission end and unbolt the 3 bolts holding shifter assy to trans. I was carefull not to turn any rod thru the thread ends. I marked them and then have not moved. It seems there must be a trick to line up the shift lever ends with the rods or maybe I just need to readjust one of the rods? Sometime with motor off going into reverse seems tight too.

This is an 87 A-833 overdrive

There is an indexing hole or notch on the bottom of the shifter. With the transmission in neutral you should be able to slide a 1/4" round screw driver through that hole and all the shifter arms including reverse which has a notch in it. If it doesn't go you may have to adjust on or more of the rods. Try that.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Couple more things here, do like EG says on the indexing,I use a 1/4" drill bit. On mine I disconnect all the rods from trans, slide in the indexing rod then adjust shift rods so tabs line up and reattach,done. If you haven't cleaned up the shifter assembly nows a good time to get all the old grease/dirt out then do the adjusting. I'm thinking you should have a grease zerk on shifter so give it a couple shots of love while you're doing all this Good luck.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Okay - I found the alignment you guys are talking about. I inserted a 1/4 dril bit through. It went through fairly easy. I would say the very first tab the bit slides thru needs to be adjusted towards the rear of the truck slightly but even if I hold in perfect position the trans still grinds going into reverse? It does seem to have trouble going into reverse without engine on too sometimes. I also tried to hold the first two tabs in alignment with the bit and then shift to reverse but it wont move into reverse with those two pinned together.
I have cleaned and greased the shifter. It should be noted again this shifter handle would not come out originally so it was banged around a little trying o get it out originally to do the clutch. Any chance I just need to drive this a little to break in the clutch? One other thing in case it matters, I used multi purpose dex-merc trans fluid.

Man this has been a battle...but real close, any more advise please?

Thks

I'm a bit confused(my normal state-we even have our own flag ) unless I screwed my adjustment up, when the indexing pin is all the way in the shifter is locked in neutral and won't move,to get the tabs at end of rods on trans to line up you screw the rods in or out until tabs slip back on to trans shift ears. My next question was what you are running for trans fluid,not sure of the dex-merc fluid but should be ok I think. I think to remove the shifter handle you slip a thin blade down along side the handle and it releases the spring load which allows handle to come up out of it's pocket,or some such as that

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

my repair manual says to use a .010" feelers gauge in to release the shifter handle

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Nothing beats a slant six
1987 D150

Okay I understand the adjustment better as you explained it second time on the rods. I'll have to re explore that.

As for the shifter handle coming off my repair manual says that too with the shim but I tried and tried and gave up getting it out. I think it's rusted in there.

Now one thing that bothered me when taking this truck a part was the clutch slave cylinder rod was at a wicked angle to the clutch fork. When I replaced the slave today the instructions after bleeding say to reinstall the strap over the tip and mount it back in the slave bracket. When I did this the rod was way off center from the clutch fork (same as I took it apart). Then it says to step on the clutch pedal and the plastic strap will break as the pedal is depressed. I had to have a helper slowly depress the clutch and push the rod tip over at an angle to get it to drop into the clutch fork. After that a snipped the plastic strap on both sides. I'm wondering if thats making me not disengage enough especially for reverse. It sure doesn't look right but thats how I bought the truck. I took some pictures but not sure how to post.

I'm thinking that the misalignment of your slave cyl is not a good thing.In fact it's possible that is why the clutch was bad and you don't want to ruin the new one. No telling whats been cobbled together in the past by PO's and mech. I'm more familier with the torque shaft manual clutch which my book says was through 86 so your 87 would be first year for hyd clutch with the 833od trans,thats if Chilton was right,which they're not quite often.Search here on the board for pic posting info(you'll need like a Photobucket account) as we really need to see what your up against.
Keep at it,you'll make that dog hunt yet

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

I wish I had the parts to do away with the hydraulic clutch setup at this point. Never had that in my other trucks. It did feal great to go around the block after a month grounded!

Are you sure that you have the reverse shift lever pointed in the right direction? I believe it is supposed to point up, but it will usally go together the other way and never let you go into reverse.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

I don't think the shift linkage would cause the problem described. If it was the cause, it wouldn't matter if the engine was running or not. The detents in the trans will not allow it to be shifted into two gears at once, running or not. That's what happens if the linkage is hooked up wrong.

Easy test to see if your clutch is releasing fully. Engine off. Trans in any gear. Jack up 1 rear tire if open rearend, both tires if sure grip. Have a friend push clutch pedal in. You should be able to spin the tire, which will spin the driveshaft, which if it's in gear will spin the input shaft to the trans. If it won't spin(it should without too much effort), the clutch is not fully dis-engaging. If it won't dis-engage, take a prybar and pry the clutch fork back all the way until it won't go anymore. If the clutch still won't release fully, the bellhousing is warped. If it's not aligned properly, it cocks the clutch disc to one side and will never allow it to release fully, unless it's worn out. There is an easy fix if warped. Loosen the 4 trans mounting bolts and install a .030" thick feeler guage between the trans and bellhousing on the bottom LH corner and tighten bolts. Push clutch in with trans in gear and try to turn the driveshaft by hand(with rear tires off ground). If it turns, cut the feeler guage sticking out of the trans off and go enjoy your day. If not, loosen the trans bolts up again and move the feeler guage up to the top LH corner. Tighten bolts and repeat last step. If that's not it, keep trying the feeler gage in diffent spots until you get it right. There are special tools from Chrysler and a dial indicator you can use but my way is the poor man's way and it works. On the trans fluid, if you tow with the truck, put 80-90W in the trans. Your bearings will thank you, but it will shift hard when cold. If you don't tow, use the dextron, it will shift easier and last just as long. You could also put 5W-30 motor oil in it and add gearlube additive and have the best of both worlds. That's what GM did on their truck 5 speeds. The GM oil is $18 per quart though. Sorry for the long post!

Joel Harris

Couple more points here,Exner by pointing the shift tab up or down will only change position of shifter itself to get into reverse,ie to the left and forward/proper position,to the left and back/wrong but still in reverse.
Joel,the 833od doesn't like heavy fluid like 75/90,even warm it requires double clutching and long S L O W shifts.It was designed for auto trans fluid and works/shifts/lasts just fine,myself and others can attest to this with both wore out trans and fresh rebuilds.Some have had good luck with the likes of RedLine etc.auto trans fluid.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Thanks for the inputs guys.

Joel,
I'll checkout if the clutch is releasing or not first. Interesting about the shim idea but what about the wicked slave cylinder angle I have? I need to find a picture of another setup or look around the junk yards to compare my slave bracket. It just doesn't seem right. My slave rod is almost at 40 degree angle to the fork.