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| Boy, does my son's slant run crappy! https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37475 |
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:24 am ] |
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Quote: Did you replace the hoses to the tank and to the fuel pump with EI hose when you rebuilt the Dart Sport???
Probably not, since I don't know what EI hose is. Frank  We did that about four years ago and used what was available at the time. Clue me in, Jerry |
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Boy, does my son's slant run crappy! |
Quote: You do do keep a couple of modules under the seat don't you?
I do have the new one in Aaron's Duster project and will swap it over this evening for a trial run. Thanks to all of you for your suggestions/comments, Jerry |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:30 am ] |
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He means EFI hose, marked "SAE 30R9" (rather than the less resistant 30R7). |
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:33 am ] |
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Quote: No hoses should be hooked to the OSAC valve. You might want to replace the PCV valve, just as preventatve maintenance
I'll take care of these items, as well.
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:38 am ] |
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Quote: Just cap the vacuum fittings on the carb that are intended to feed the EGR system and you are golden.
Anyone have some good diagrams of the Carter BBD for six cylinders? Ones that show all sides and what the various ports/nipples are for.
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Oct 14, 2009 10:05 am ] |
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Why, yes, yes we do. Over in the articles section under the Super Six article you will find a link to this: 
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Wed Oct 14, 2009 2:14 pm ] |
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Well, then, I'm in good shape, because... EGR fitting on back is blocked off PCV fitting on back is correct Choke vacuum diaphragm is connected as shown to port on back Does not have ESA vacuum source tapped into choke hose Canister purge on front is correct Bowl vent fitting on right side is correct Distributor fitting on right side is correct The heated air fitting is the only one I'm not sure about. I think it is connected to the air cleaner base, I'll have to check. Fortunately, my carb has fuel/air mix screws exposed on the front and easy to get to. By the way, yes, I do have the electric choke assist, and it works properly. I might add, after parking the car and killing the ignition, it sometimes "diesels", but only once, then dies. Does this indicate anything related to the other issue of stuttering? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The dieseling suggests the timing may be improper — could be a distributor placement issue or a timing chain issue. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Oct 14, 2009 6:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Yep... |
Quote: The dieseling suggests the timing may be improper — could be a distributor placement issue or a timing chain issue.
Re check your timing with a timing light and see where it is at at #1 TDC for Base timing... sometimes "carb issues" can also be ignition/timing issues... if the distributor walked a bit then you might be 5-10 degrees too far out...Dieseling/run-on can also occur if the throttle plates are too far open (i.e. improper idle screw setting...usually you only see that when someone can't get a carb to idle right for the big cam they just bought and need to keep the carb at 1800 rpm to stay running....) Good Luck, -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:52 pm ] |
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DI's got a good point; keep in mind these things can be really tangled: the timing's wrong, so the idle speed and mixture screws have to be way off where it should be to make the car start and idle, so the vacuum advance schedule is screwed up...fixing just one misadjustment won't get the job done in cases like this; you have to find and fix them all. |
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Thu Oct 15, 2009 6:13 am ] |
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Wow, there's nothing quite like a good, long list of potential problems and their causes and relations to completely reassure a novice, such as myself. But, hey, that's why I have you guys watching my back, right?How about we do this? Let's devise a plan of attack to eliminate the remaining culprits by establishing a checklist of things to do in order of priority. I'll go ahead and plead my ignorance to some of these steps, and many of them I have already done, but will check again to keep the process on track. Given the symptoms and discussions we have already had, what would be your list of priorities and in what order would you do them? Goes something like this (confirm = minor observation, check = manipulation): PRE-START 1. Confirm all vacuum hoses are properly connected and in good condition 2. Replace all rubber fuel lines with SAE 30R9 3. Confirm free flowing fuel filter or replace 4. Confirm carburetor is mounted firmly 5. Confirm condition of spark plugs 6. Confirm ignition wires are attached securely 7. Confirm distributor cap and rotor integrity 8. Confirm distributor is mounted securely POST-START 9. Check electric choke assist for proper function 10. Check choke for proper function 11. Replace ECU with known good unit (confirm good ground) 12. Set valve lash 13. Check timing and reset if necessary 14. Reset idle 15. Check air/fuel mixture Please feel free to add to this list or change order of sequence. |
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| Author: | '74 Sport [ Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | May not be the carb after all |
Not to go off on a wild goose chase in the middle of the current ongoing discussion, but.... At lunch today, I stopped by the shop where Aaron had a Holley 4bbl rebuilt for his Duster project. I simply wanted to know if he could determine whether we are dealing with carburetion or something more sinister. Without much hesitation, he said that it is has a dead cylinder and is missing badly. So, it may not be the carburetor after all.He said it may be something in the secondary ignition system - between the distributor and plugs. What are some of the likely sources for this problem, and where do I begin? How do I determine which cylinder is "dead"? |
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:50 pm ] |
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 I would be interested to know what tests he did to determine there was a dead cylinder.The quickest and easiest way to get an *estimate* as to which cylinder is dead is to pull one spark plug wire at a time from the distributor cap with the engine running. When you find a plug wire where the motor does not run noticeably worse when the wire is disconnected, that is probably your dead cylinder. Don't shock yourself.
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Mon Oct 19, 2009 6:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Other way...less shocking... |
My favorite mechanics trick is to use a test light/probe (the kind with the clip on a wire and the point on the other...)... Let engine run at idle (or fast idle if you can get it to repeat problem at a high rpm)... Clip attaches to ground... stick point into spark plug boot until it touches the plug wire clip... you will now have a "dead" or shorted cylinder... check all 6 until you find one that doesn't cause the idle to change any...that's the cylinder to check (turn off car and check plug...it's either wet, oil fouled, or...'kerploded'). At least this way you won't accidently get that "shocking" feeling while trying to wrestle plug wires off the plugs on a hot engine. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:52 pm ] |
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Heh. I shocked myself last week checking the ignition on my brother's van. I had installed a Ford E-core coil the week before. YOWZA!
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