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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 5:51 pm 
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Supercharged
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Greg,
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Looks like eye candy for the Carb.
I actually used one for a year under a standard "T" bar style 1920 and it gave it a very nice strong bottom end, especially at start up when everything is cold. It is not necessary to run one under a 1920 Economaster. The Economaster does a super job of atomizing the fuel.

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 6:45 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
But Mario Andretti endorsed it! It must be true! :lol: :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 7:11 pm 
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I think the lift is 505.....

If that chamber is not relieved around the valves and it worked before there is no reason to think it work now.

Did you cc those chambers?

The Ford 6 has other size stems ...I think

I used Chev valves 1.72/1.50 The chambers were reshaped.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:51 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Haven't cc'd the chambers yet. I need to do that, then take a WAG about how far down in the piston bore the pistons stop on the motor. I have a limited window where I will have the van at my place to swap the cam and the head so I need to have the machine work done beforehand. Unfortunately, this means I won't be able to properly measure the deck height of the pistons. :?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:48 am 
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Turbo EFI
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It is amazing how shrouded stock valves are in the head.

A cheap pocket type gauge is all you need to measure the piston height.

I like the idea of polishing chambers on the street.

With .060 off the head and a polish job with stock valves unshrouded I got 45cc's on my friend's 78 model head.

I got the same numbers on my '74 drool plug head for the Dart. No polishing or unshrouding. .060 shaved.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 7:29 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Getting the gauge isn't the problem, getting the motor in my hands so I can pull the old head off and take the measurement is.

I will get the head CC'd and go from there.

Thanks everybody!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 2:46 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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Looking at the valve sizes in that head, that thing has terrible flow I'm sure. :shock:

Personally, and this is only my opinion, if I was building a grunt motor with no more camshaft than what you will be using, I'd use a stock head and mill it for as much compression as I could get with stock deck height and call it a day. :D

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 3:14 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
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Thanks D! That's the kind of answer I was looking for. I really have no experience with non-stock slant sixes, so I have no idea how to guess how these valves would perform on a street motor.

THe main motivation to use this head as opposed to a stock head is that this head has already been rebuilt which would save some money. However, I don't want to go through the trouble of putting this head on if the head will have poor flow characteristics and will not be beneficial to the intended use of the motor. :?

Argh. Maybe I will just pull the head on the van now and get that rebuilt. I am getting splinters in my butt from sitting on this fence....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:28 pm 
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Reed, somebody in your area has got to have a rebuildable head laying around they would almost give you.

If you were closer I gots 3-4 laying around the shop. :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 5:39 pm 
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Supercharged
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Actually, now that I think about it, I think I have an extra hydraulic head in my stash. Sure its heavier, but its not like 15 extra pounds will turn a van into a pig. :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 6:03 pm 
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...or you could remove all the valves in the BIG VALVE head and relieve the chambers with a Dremel .....All the chambers need to be the same.

There are very good guidelines for relieving on Panics site. When I did mine we used a vertical mill .......

After you are done you would need to mill the block or head to get back some CCs.

You could photo the process......

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 7:13 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
There are very good guidelines for relieving on Panics site.
Panic's site? :shrug:
Quote:
When I did mine we used a vertical mill .......


How about a drill press? Closest thing I got to a mill.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 7:36 pm 
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http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/main.htm

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 8:41 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Image Thanks Charlie!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 6:33 am 
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You dont need a verical mill.....we just used that because it was fast and easy.

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