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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:46 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 01, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 830
Location: joyce wa
Car Model:
Just a FYI the RemFlex can be had through Napa at least a few up this way were willing to get them.
Wow you'll give me 5k plus deliver? I just couldn't take advantage of you that way :wink: :lol:

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 4:07 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
:lol:
yea i wouldn't feel right takin yur $$ just to deliver it

BTW - it was running 17.33 in the 1/4 (with a POS carb even!!)
it hauls tons of crap at 70+ on the highway
it corners like a BMW
and tons of people I have no idea about give it the thumbs up or holler at me to let me know it's an awesome rig

oh yeah - and Captain Kirk went from the Captain of the Enterprise to riding around in the back of it doing commercials!!!

guess i will have to bill you a little more!!! :lol:

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 4:19 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 6:59 am
Posts: 17
Car Model:
Exhaust manifold is warped. I see a broken rear stud coming soon (yes, that's why they have a tendency to break). While you have the head off put some new high quality ones in with zero fatigue life.

Consider taking the intake/exhaust manifold assembly into a machine shop to get it surfaced as a unit. That can probably wait until you have more money but spend the few bucks on the studs -- at least the rearmost one.

Wild guess is that lack of careful periodic patterned retorquing of the head bolts (I forget what the schedule is for a new gasket) is behind the gasket failure and will prevent a new occurance. Witness marks indicate a higher loading of the inner bolts.

Looks like you need new valve stem seals (#3).

Be careful with long sanding blocks. Make damn sure they are flat over their entire length or you will introduce distortion rather than remove it. Also keep in mind that rigid bodies are theoretical constructs. When you have a long flat bar it is probably flexing as you use it if you press down more in one area. This seems very technique sensitive for a novice. Kinda like jumping into the art of finishing optical flats.

Sorry to hear about your back.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 4:47 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2008 1:12 pm
Posts: 227
Location: Nashville
Car Model:
Image

KLJohnson = Kevin Johnson?

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72 dart acquired 12/08 /6,holley2b, mopar perf intake, mopar perf header, cam, built motor,904 finally re-installed, 8.75....still needs sorting out.
99 dakota 318 5 speed reg cab picked up 9/09; Trans finally fixed! woohoo!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 5:51 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 11:23 pm
Posts: 163
Location: Halsey, Oregon
Car Model:
It does sound like him. :?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:03 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:26 pm
Posts: 1237
Location: CBS Newfoundland Canada
Car Model:
how did this happen, #6 looks like a lean mix lite the fire ring in the gasket and blew it out when it weakened,also the ex side of the manifold gasket seems to be leaking all over the place, #3 comp chamber looks like high temps cleaned off the carbon layer on the surface. :?:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 6:49 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
wow - thanks for telling me what you see from the pics!!

okay - the studs were all brand new 5 yrs ago - actually everything was brand new
I retorqued the head a couple of times - center out etc

i have let it slide for the last 2 yrs though - just checked the valves

i have been running mobil1 exclusively

what I find weird - #3 is the one with all the crap on it!
#6 has a little on it as does #1 - #3 being the worst of them - except that it is also the one that cleaned up quickest - all except #3 exhaust are white - nothing actually on them??

I checked the block and head with one of my aluminum levels - both are straight - the intake/exhaust are too - dirty with crap on them - but straight across - have not taken them apart as they did not leak where they connect - which is always a pain

so what I am hearing is that even after 5 years - it should be retorqued regularly? I figured a couple 3 4 times during the first two years was enough??

as far as leaking all over??
did not see any of that??
only actual spot that looked leaking to me was where it blew through #6 into the galley - what am I missing

anyway - thanks guys

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 1:22 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 6:59 am
Posts: 17
Car Model:
In a couple of the pics corrosion can be seen inside the coolant passages of the block (rear) but the antifreeze looks fresh -- doesn't jive. It could be that your high rpm usage has swept up deep corrosion and deposited it there. At the least the cooling there is not going to be as efficient -- more stress on the gasket. That also means you should look at your radiator to see if it is clogged in some areas.

More "chemicals for better living" are in your future (power flush?).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:05 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13115
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
Reed - ??????

That head was checked, decked, ported and polished and all new everything - 5 yrs ago

You telling me I "screwed up" again???

lol - just par for my course I guess!?!?!
Nope, but if I were going to be putting this much effort into a head, I would use the revised combustion chamber head, if possible. I don't know if the rebuild on your head included hardened seats or not. If it did, then you are fine.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:17 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
Kevin - is this the spot you are refering to? Image - if so, that is a little rust colored but it has nothing in it that moves or scrapes off etc. As a matter of fact, I can even see the casting rod in the head and move it around.

I have stuck my fingers into those holes and tried seeing if anything was loose and my finger comes out clean, not even any rust color comes off onto my finger if I scrape it.

The camera just doesn't do it any justice.

Image - here is the block with the sanding done.

and the head with sanding done - Image

All I had to do was use some 600 grit wet/dry and it took me less than 45 minutes between the head and the block - and again, I checked the "levelness" of both by using two different levels that I have - straight and aluminum.

I had the radiator cored and cleaned a couple of years ago and then swapped it in. I have 3 others waiting around to have redone if and when I need them.

I run around in the land of the californicator and this van runs around all over the place in 100+ heat all the time - have never had it overheat - it will get a little warm if I am running down the freeway at 70+mph - but if I take the 55mph roads it never moves from normal.

Anyway, hope this explains that a little more??
Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions?
Dan

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:49 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
Reed - it absolutely did!

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 11:28 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 6:59 am
Posts: 17
Car Model:
Quote:
Kevin - is this the spot you are refering to? Image - if so, that is a little rust colored but it has nothing in it that moves or scrapes off etc. As a matter of fact, I can even see the casting rod in the head and move it around.

I have stuck my fingers into those holes and tried seeing if anything was loose and my finger comes out clean, not even any rust color comes off onto my finger if I scrape it.

The camera just doesn't do it any justice.
Yes, that's it. I was comparing the corrosion in there to the lack of corrosion in the corresponding holes in the head. That made me think the head was hot tanked but not the block (?). Keeping the anti-freeze maintained acts a bit like a time capsule since the rebuild.




Quote:
Image - here is the block with the sanding done.

and the head with sanding done - Image

All I had to do was use some 600 grit wet/dry and it took me less than 45 minutes between the head and the block - and again, I checked the "levelness" of both by using two different levels that I have - straight and aluminum.

I had the radiator cored and cleaned a couple of years ago and then swapped it in. I have 3 others waiting around to have redone if and when I need them.
I am thinking "why swap in the new radiator?" two years ago. {Rebuild was 5 years ago?)} Did it overheat (you say no below)? The head gasket condition (not failed yet then) could be an artifact of that event (lasted another two years).

Quote:
I run around in the land of the californicator and this van runs around all over the place in 100+ heat all the time - have never had it overheat - it will get a little warm if I am running down the freeway at 70+mph - but if I take the 55mph roads it never moves from normal.

Anyway, hope this explains that a little more??
Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions?
Dan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 1:07 pm 
Offline
EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
It never actually overheated - but since summer was coming on I wanted to make sure - so I switched rads. Was back during a time when I had the $ to get it done.

The block and the head were both tanked - the head was also magnafluxed (?) if that is the term I am thinking of.

Well, thanks guys - NAPA will have the gaskets Tuesday. Can't wait 2 weeks for the intake/exhaust ones from the other outfit (not to mention the $) - so gonna have to use the FelPro's from NAPA -
Dan

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 2:26 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24522
Location: North America
Car Model:
The head does not need to be retorqued periodically -- that is yet another bit of spurious misinformation by an individual who is not welcome on this board, has already been banned once, and will shortly be banned again. Pay attention to the good advice you're getting from knowledgeable people who actually own slant-6s, and disregard the babble and handwaving from those who seek only to stir up ѕhit.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:04 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
Thank you Sir!

I am still going to need a carb to replace this pos
Hopefully I will have the wearwithall to afford something next month

As if I haven't had a hard enough time doing all this with a bad back - yesterday I ended up walking out the door and walked off the step and sprained/snapped extreme;y loudly - my left ankle!!!!
Swollen about two times it's norma; size!

oh well - that's life in the fast lane for ya!!

Later,
Dan

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick
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