It doesn't cost you money to post here. You are not charged by the letter. Please go ahead and use actual, real English words (like "you" and "might"). Otherwise, people might mistakenly get the idea that you're some kind of a nincompoop.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

a 260 cubic inch engine turning 7000 RPM with a 90 percent volumetric efficiency needs 526 CFM of air flow.

I am also voting your carb is too big.

Play with it here:

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Add another vote for "carb too big". And that cam is way too much for an otherwise stock motor. It might be all right if you run it at redline all the time, but if you run it on the street, it's not the hot setup for driveability.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

That subtitle is a sort of ranking, based on the number of posts you have made in the forums. It looks like you've graduated to "4 BBL Hyper-Pak"

A carburetor too large for your application will lead to low vacuum and poor throttle response among other things. There is a wealth of knowledge and experience on this board; you'll serve yourself well to at least consider it. Good luck with your project.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I love how people put nice engines in cars that look like $#!+

At least my Dart looks AND runs like $#!+

well i am missing how u get this is a mostly stock engine?? im getting about 185cfm head flow? what else besides head, cam, heavy porting, port matched intake/exhaust, headers, big valves, overbore does it not fit "mostly stock" catigory? ok next time the head comes off i'll get my compression up to 10:1.

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

The initial question was about vacuum.. I think you might be able to coax an inch or two more, but with the cam and mods your not going to clear 15" HG. About all you can do is see if running a bit looser lash fixes things. Back it off till you start hearing a loud 'tack" Measure, and tighten it one or two thousandths.

As it is, the 600 Holley Double pumper is too much for something your going to run on the street. Until it hits 3500 rpm it's going to fall on it's face with the ignition and compression your running.

You might want to think about a 390 Holley if your set on a mechanical. Better yet, save a few bucks and get yourself an Edelbrock 500 AVS. You can pick them up from Summit and places like that for pretty reasonable rates.

If the distributor is still "stock," it isn't going to be optimal for this sort of build. It will carry too much mechanical advance in most cases. Back your initial timing down around ten or twelve, then use a dial back gun to see where your timing is all in, and at what RPM.

Keep it to 30 degrees or less, and get it all in before 2800 rpm.

Are you running a manual transmission, or did you put a high stall converter in? Your going to need one or the other to play with cam numbers you listed in your first post.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

yea im gonna up the compression when i get the funds (just bought my first house!!) and have already ordered lighter springs for the dizzy. and as far as the drivetrain i am rebuilding a 904 with a 3K flash and a 8.75 with 3.91 sure-grip.

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

But the bigger concern, what about some body work, your car is rotting/rusting away. Just like mine...

One alternative, read up on POR15.com

It is buying me some time on my ride until I can start to do some cutting and welding.....

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

haha actually there isn't much rust, just a lil banged up. need a new drivers quarter and have two straight front fenders to put on.

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

ok guys so i played with the distributor today, just messing with adv. so using a dial timing light i found i was running 17* @ idle (1050rpm) and a Total of about 27* @ 2100-2200.

so i undid the other adjustment bolt on the dizzy and bumped the timing up to 22* @ idle (1050rpm). with a total of about 30-32* @ 2200-2300.

the car runs alot better just bumping up the timing!! on hot starts i used to crank for about 3 seconds will it would kick and start! but now it starts on about the 2 revolution!!

still need to change the springs but do u think i need more total? or just bump up my intial to get my total more?

thanks for the advice on the timing and i'll get a vacuum gauge on it and see what its at.

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

Cool, I couldn't tell really well from the video. I just assumed it was rusted since it's almost impossible to find rust free mopar's these days. My car is rusting, rotting and overall just plain falling apart while I drive it to school and I can't do nothing about it untill I land a part time job. I've put in 15 different applications without so much as a phone call in return, so I'm forced to drive my Dart and watch it fall apart.

I'm sad now...

Sorry, in my self piteous bi#@%ing I didn't even realize I jacked your thread. lol, I'm going to go start a thread so we can all bitch about our cars.

well just treat small areas at a time! just get some por15 or whatever and just "stop" problem spots till the time is right!

it is an original CA car from bakersfield. i found a stack of famoso pit passes from way back behind the dash!

my point is that any body who has been to bako... most things dont rust!

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid