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| Battery sparks when i crank the ignition https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40500 |
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| Author: | 1974stepside [ Mon Jul 12, 2010 7:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | ongoing issues. |
So now that the electrical seems fine I started it and meant to drive it around the block but now there seems to be no power. Before I started re-wiring the electrical i tried to lower the idle, then when I started it gas started leaking so I tightened it back up. Do you think I need to reset the timing again (did this about 2 months ago)? could it be something else? |
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| Author: | ESP47 [ Mon Jul 19, 2010 2:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Gas started leaking because you lowered the idle? I'm not following there. The two shouldn't go hand in hand. Where was gas leaking from? Also what is your timing at right now? |
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| Author: | 1974stepside [ Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yea, I had the Idle screw all the way turned out. its fine now. I tried deleting that post. Everything is fine except my rear tailight/indicator keeps burning out, not sure how to fix. works fine for awhile then eventually stops working until i replace the bulb. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Tue Jul 20, 2010 12:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
steside, You may have to redo the ground with new wire. Run a line back from the engine block or negative battery terminal. Sometimes the bed and frame don't carry a ground very well. Especially if it is old and rusty.... Just run a new line back through or along the frame. You need anyway if you ever pull a trailer. |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Wed Jul 28, 2010 12:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
A bad ground should not cause a bulb to blow because it will be running less than full current. But one thing that could happen is that any bad connection to the bulb will cause excessive heat, and that could cause the bulb to fail. Testing for a bad ground is easy with a voltmeter. Using an analog type, it is easier to see but you can use a digital type as well. Put the negative probe on a KNOWN GOOD ground. This may require running a long wire to the negative side of the battery to wherever you are troubleshooting. First test the battery connections at the battery. Read from the actual post of the battery to the battery connector with the lights on. You should read zero. If you read anything here then the connection to the battery post is not good. Clean & re-test. Do this for both battery terminals. Once you know you have a good ground wire, hook that to the negative meter cable. Put the positive lead of the meter to where you may have the bad ground, such as on a taillight housing. Turn on the circuit for the item you are testing and read the meter. If the ground is good, there will be a zero reading. Anything else shows a bad ground. Let me know if this is not clear enough. |
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| Author: | 1974stepside [ Wed Sep 22, 2010 3:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I put in long lasting bulbs and so far the brake lights are fine. Still having trouble with the tailights, they dont go on when the headlights are on. Also still having an issue with the fuel guage. Goin to make sure the guage works by testing it with a 6 volt battery. Thanks for all your help. |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Wed Sep 22, 2010 7:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Do the taillights go on with the parking lights? |
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| Author: | 1974stepside [ Thu Sep 23, 2010 4:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
No. The tailights are the indicator and brake lights all in one, they only work when the brake is on. |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Sat Sep 25, 2010 11:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: No. The tailights are the indicator and brake lights all in one, they only work when the brake is on.
I don't understand your reply (tailights are the indicator and brake lights all in one). There is only one bulb, but there are 2 circuits, one for the taillights and one for the brake/turn lights. I am trying to determine if the taillights come on when the headlight switch is in the "park" position but not in the "headlight" position.
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Sun Sep 26, 2010 5:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Unhook your battery when fooling around with repairs, especially under the dash where it is easy to short between the chassis and a hot wire with a screwdriver or wrench. For electrical restoration, I found a local truck supply shop has most of the bits and pieces I need. My local one is Keller who sells products by www.colehersee.com Sam |
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| Author: | 1974stepside [ Wed Sep 29, 2010 10:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sorry for the late response, No the lights do not go on when in the park position. Would that mean the light switch could be the issue? |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Wed Sep 29, 2010 3:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes, the switch could be the problem. To test, I would pull the switch down so I could get at the terminals. Use a voltmeter to test the terminals. First find the "hot" terminal so that you know you have power to the switch. Then turn on the switch and look for a different wire that is "hot". The wire you want will be "hot" in BOTH the parking light and headlight positions. If you don't find one "hot" in both positions, the switch is bad. If you do find one, you can try to follow this wire out from the switch and see where it stops working. I believe on some A-Bodies the wire goes down the left side of the floor under the door sill and then back into the trunk. |
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| Author: | 1974stepside [ Fri Oct 01, 2010 9:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks, hopefully i will get around to it this weekend. |
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