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| Slant 6 Dan and all, I would like your help- overhtng clues https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40944 |
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| Author: | gen2cudas [ Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Optimistic this Afternoon about it. . . |
Been both here and over at FABO for input on my problems- thanks to all. A gentleman going by JamesDart had a suggestion last night- take out the square fitting on the driver's side of the block and give the water jacket a check for water flow from that side. None. In fact, the inside of the nut was dry too. Took an auger bit (!) to the black stuff inside the hole. . .then a screwdriver. . .then a pick. . . . . .and finally struck water after a bit of digging. Spent the next hour or two cramming wire of various sizes and stiffnesses inside the block through that hole trying to break up whatever it is in there that must be stacked up on the floor of the water jacket- and around the bases of the cylinders- filling and draining through the hole, filling and starting the engine and letting the water blast back out under RPM, filling and letting set, then pulling the plug again. . .etc. I can't be making any real headway with whatever it is- I can't reach much with wire. And, it has sat for collective months with coolant that never percolated down into the mess (dry!). Short of pulling this block for a hot tank, any idea what I can pour into the block that might soften this mess? Tophat, will make that TDC stop you linked for me- I have always needed to buy a degree wheel and this one looks close by the rotor on the distributor. . .but I am having my doubts, expecially how this thing seems to affect the cooling ability of the engine to this extent. Right now, trying 50/50 pickling vinegar straight into the block from the top. . . |
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| Author: | gen2cudas [ Sun Jul 11, 2010 2:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Oh, and by the way- thanks for that bit about the tranny TopHat: me, starting to think too much. Figured that the oil would already be black if it was creating friction internally and causing that much heat. Nice to know the temp is only that high inside. . . Mike |
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| Author: | tophat [ Mon Jul 12, 2010 5:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Don't really need a degree wheel to check TDC. Disconnect the battery. Remove all the sparkplugs. Install the piston stop on #1 cylinder. Rotate the engine BY HAND, till the piston just touches the piston stop, mark the balancer. Rotate the engine backwards BY HAND, till the piston just touches again, mark the balancer. TDC is exactly in between the 2 marks you made. A degree wheel is nice to have though. There are even some on line you can print out on-line and glue to cardboard. I bought an aluminium one from Jegs for about $20. On to your coolant jacket problems. It may be helpful to remove the intake / exhaust again, for clearance. Pop out the core / freeze plugs, and take a stiff wire to that side too. I would knock them all out, they are cheep, brass is worth the extra few dollars. I would save and take the old ones to the parts store to match them up. Parts stores in my area here couldn't look them up, but they have a big selection in the back they can match up. You could do this with the manifolds on, but it will be much more difficult. If you do this with the manifolds on, you could use the rubber plugs that are available, temporally while running flush in the engine, then remove them and flush the holes out with a garden hose. Beware that the rubber plugs are NOT for permanent use, but are handy for repeated flushing short term. Be careful running any kind of flush in it though, all that gunk coming loose can plug the radiator and heater core. I would bypass the heater core before flushing, and leave it bypassed until it is clean. Removing the core plugs you may even find wires, about twice as thick as a coat hanger, these are safe to remove. Those wires were part of the sand core at the foundry when the block was cast. Worst case scenario you may need to pull the head again, and root out the coolant passages from the top of the block too. I just looked at the block on my engine stand. There are 2 holes about the size of a nickel at the back of the block, and a hole about the size of a pencil about an inch from the head bolt holes on the manifold side of the block. When you had the head off, if these holes weren't clear you will probably need to pull the head again. I don't know of any other way to get it clean in there. There is no magic flush that will clean it out without rooting it out first. It seems to be common practice to stand the block on end and let the cooling jackets sit with muriatic acid for up to 2 weeks. You cant do the acid trick in the car though, and it can be dangerous if not done correctly. TopHat |
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| Author: | gen2cudas [ Tue Jul 13, 2010 3:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
No Joke! Me, I was thinking dumping in varsol, kersosene or even diesel into the core and letting it sit. What is evaporated antifreeze gonna be like anyway? The stuff I dug out was like black carbon. I will go for the two on the driver's side (freeze plugs) if I have to- already had 'em out and dug away once when they blew. Thinking also that my nice aluminum rad may have taken a shot of rust into the tubes. . .but it looks and runs clean water. Can't take a look down the tubes to see if they pass any light, but will think on how I might. Sent an old dip stick down a few the other night, seemed clear. . .? Gonna think some more on that original dizzy, original drive gear, and perhaps it really being set retarded too. M |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Is there any moisture down low yet? I was not sure from your description. Can you snake your old dip stick around in there? About an old drain snake like you use to unplug a drain. Or, maybe a small plunger. I don;t know id there would be a sealing surface for than. It seems like you should be able to get this stuff broken up with continued probing. Sam |
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| Author: | gen2cudas [ Wed Jul 14, 2010 8:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Sam. The radiator is a vertical core; the dipstick was the only piece of flat enough metal I could find in the garage that would fit down the cooling tubes from the inside- very narrow. Of course, water was in the thing, so all I could do was stick it down the inside of the cooling tubes top to bottom on 3 or 4 and see if it would stop or go all the way to the bottom of the radiator. The few I could reach and get the stick into seemed clear. . . . . .as far as the "stuff" down inside the cooling jacket is concerned Sam, I am on the road working right now and can't get back to the car to see until Sunday. . .I was just commenting on the fact that, when I dug it out of the block on the passenger side Sunday, it was dry in spite of the fact it has had flush, water, antifreeze, hot and cold cycles, and full running flow over it now for about a year (how long we've had the car). Seems to be waterproof- no water has settled down through the sediments sitting in there. |
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