Tony moved his Memory Lane yard out of Sunland a few years back. Finally closed it down altogether and retired for real last year or the year before. Haven't seem him since, hope he's enjoying things.

I'm still running several parts on the HAMBster and El Toad that I got from him.

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

When I rebuilt the carb and put the intake on I replaced all the gaskets. Could they REALLY be so crappy as to not seal at all?
Thought: My exhaust runner for the number 6 cylinder is missing the top back bolt. When I got this truck I noticed that bolt was missing I figured it was broken off. But when I got my exhaust off I found out that someone had previously helicoiled that hole and put a new bolt in that had broken off... SO I, not having the tools to deal with it this evening and it being my daily driver, just put it all back together with new gaskets. It was almost 9pm and I have to drive my truck somewhere in the morning. I figured, if it has been broken all this time and ran ok it can be broken a little longer. lol
If I had an exhaust leak here would it cause the rough idle/carb pops?

On another note I was reading the FAQ stuff on here and I may need to do some adjusting on the idle mixture. I don't think I was as thorough as I should have been. This may help.

Is there a way to test my PCV valve to see if it is operating correctly? It is the older style one held into a steel cap with a bolt that slips onto the valve cover. umm... Just had a thought... if it is not sealing properly... that would create a vacuum leak... lol Duh...

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1965 D100 225 slant 6, NP435 Utiline.

I used to go into memory lane when it was in Sunland and just hang out... lol It was so comforting to just be in a place that these awesome cars weren't considered scrap just yet. They still had parts that had lives yet to live. lol
I was in a Buick phase at the time... RIP 73 Estate Wagon rustbucket with a 500HP 455... Fastest trashcan I ever owned... lol

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1965 D100 225 slant 6, NP435 Utiline.

Memory Lane ended up in Wilmington for a while before shutting down as previously stated a few years back...

+1 on the good luck finding the super six setup... I havent been to the Sun Valley yards in a while, but may have to start hitting them up again because most of the South Bay yards are lacking old cars lately.

OK so first of all, I got it to stop the popping from the carb. However, I DO have a vacuum leak... and I am having the worst time trying to locate it. I read that if I slowly cover the carb with my hand and the engine revs up on it's own I have a vacuum leak. I did this and it for sure idled REAL smooth for a second while I was covering my carb.
I got out my propane bottle today to swiff it around my intake stuffs and the only thing I got the engine to "race" faster on was the base of the carb... more specifically, the throttle plate shaft area. it was not a huge difference but it was the only area that the engine's behavior changed. I just rebuilt this carb and this truck is my daily driver. Is there a place where I can buy JUST a re-manufactured throttle body part of the carb? The whole rest of the carb is working great. I have GREAT throttle response and improved power and this is all without even doing my exhaust yet. BUT, I have this damn vacuum leak that I just can't locate. My vacuum advance for my Dist. is toast so I just plugged that line until I can get a new one and my PCV is working just fine.
Are there any really good ways to locate vacuum leaks and is there anywhere else I could have one except from my carb to my head?
I thought of using oil or carb cleaner to locate them but I tried the propane first.
THANKS GUYS!!! Just trying to get this thing running right and get decent mileage. lol Getting about 17 on the highway and about 12-13 around town.
Compression seems a really solid 120 on all cylinders except #2 where is it about 105-110.

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1965 D100 225 slant 6, NP435 Utiline.

Throttle shafts can pass air on high mileage carburetors, the shafts will egg out the softer metal of the base. These can be re-bushed, or just fine a carburetor in better shape.

Another location for big vacuum leaks to occur is at the base of the carburetor & intake manifold due to the base of the carburetor becoming cupped or concave from being torqued down too tightly. This condition can be determined by placing a straight at edge ear to ear diagonals, and north – south, east – west on the bottom of the carburetor while shining a light in such a way to illuminate any void between the straight edge & base.

Cupping can be corrected by using a 10 inch mill bastard file. Carefully remove the high spots while spanning the entire base of the carburetor with the file. It is slow work, but once the high spots are removed, and carburetor torqued properly, using new virgin gaskets, the problem will be solved.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Grab an old heater (or garden) hose a couple of feet long. Makes a great stethoscope for leaks and odd noises.

oooo good idea on the carb cupping. I will pull the carb off this morning and throw my straight edge on it and take it from there.
And lengths of hose I have. haha I will give that a shot too. I think it is not related to the intake. I do think that it is somewhere from the carb base to the air cleaner... just a matter of finding it...
Thanks again guys I will let you know this afternoon. lol

-Marc

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1965 D100 225 slant 6, NP435 Utiline.

If you aren't exactly sure where the leak is coming from, spray some soapy water on the sides and base of the carb, as well as your intake runners where they meet the head. Then pull the hose off your pcv valve and use your compressor to shoot some air up the hose, toward the carb. It should bubble where you're leaking so you can get a better idea.

If it's bubbling from the throttle shaft, then take it to a carb shop and just have them rebush the shaft. Will probably cost you $60.

With the carb popping, what is your timing at? Is it popping when just idling or when you give it a bunch of gas?

OK. So, with a 2' length of hose and some carb cleaner I probed my carb. Found that I was getting differences around the throttle shaft and the base of the carb.
So I pulled the carb and put a straight edge too it and found that it was a little out of whack. I took a file to it and got it nice and straight. I cleaned it off and put it back on the intake and started it up and it was still running a little rough. So I got out my hose (shhhh) and found a little hissing at the throttle shafts. Got the base of the carb to stop responding to carb cleaner but the shafts still leak. So... I guess it looks like I am in for a re-bushing of the throttle shaft. Could the throttle shaft leakage really make it idle so rough just on it's own? I would hate to have it all done and still have a problem...
I think the carb popping was due to it being set lean and me not adjusting the idle mixture properly. Once I made it more rich the popping stopped. BUT I have this vacuum leak and will never get the carb adjusted right if I don't fix that.
My timing is set at about 12 deg. BTDC... I think... I don't have a really descriptive timing tab... It just has 4 lines with no numbers. I should probably pop my distributor cap and see where my rotor lands on each of the lines... but none the less, the popping happens only at very light throttle, if at all any more.

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1965 D100 225 slant 6, NP435 Utiline.

I took out my carb and pulled the throttle body off of it. I took out the throttle shaft to find that the shaft itself it worn... Probably along with the shaft holes... Will this be fixed if I have a carb shop re-bushing my carb? Or must I just locate another throttle shaft/throttle body?
This must be where my problem lies. lol

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1965 D100 225 slant 6, NP435 Utiline.

Have it re-bushed. Keep all your carb parts together. It generally runs $40.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ok well I took it to a shop and had my throttle shaft re-bushed. Put it back together and tried to tune my truck... same problem. So I grabbed some soapy water and pressurized my Carb/intake with about 10lbs of air. As I squirted everything down the only place I got bubbles was at my damn throttle shaft. I dunno...maybe this means that I have to bite the bullet and just buy a new Carb instead of testing my luck at the junkyards. Not sure what else to do. I am kinda short on cash and hate that my truck is kinda running not up to par. Not to mention that my mileage could be better and if I didn't have a vacuum leak my Carb would not have to be set so rich to compensate.
Ugh... on the upside the rebush only cost me $25.

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1965 D100 225 slant 6, NP435 Utiline.

Now you're coming to the frustrating part of the process. I've got boxes of BBDs so worn out that re-bushing didn't save them. Finding a NOS BBD is a major topic of conversation here. I finally settled for a Holley 2280, a bolt-on substitute for the BBD.

Be patient and persistent.

Maybe check the 5 vacuum ports you plugged. Hook up the distributor vacuum line and power time it, don't rely on your light. Move the distributor around until you get a good idle. Road test. Keep advancing until you get a slight ping in a higher gear at low speed. Also check the intake surface. If I recall the nuts are torqued to 10 ft.lbs. The carb wasn't a lean burn, was it?