Hi richie, I have to comment a little on your post. In theory I agree that there is no reason to change a working setup, if you're happy with your truck as it is, keep it like that.

In practical life I totally disagree! But that doesn't mean that I expect everybody else to do the same.

My '77 Aspen Wagon is my daily driver, and for the last couple of years, age have really been starting to show, small things that are often more annoying than critical. My ignition performed OK, apart from the ballast resistor that frequently didn't, and the grinding from the starter when it didn't fire up the engine was really annoying. I switched to HEI for the reasons given in the HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To, see the Why and Comparison links. I have both working orange and chrome boxes lying around somewhere, but I won't use them. I also like to play with metal and tools and make things, and I have a plan to clean up the engine room, so there is another reason. As I told, I have had problems with 'fusible links', and I want to just replace a fuse, if that ever becomes necessary with new wiring.

I also try to lower the fuel consumption, HEI is a part of that plan.

I said the original electrical setup in older mopars is madness, and I am not the only one thinking that. But you actually confirm it when you describe a 2" burn down a wire! Well, you caught it in time, but what if your truck had ended up as a smoking wreck along the road? I doubt there would be much comfort in having Dan there patting your shoulder and telling you that at least you're not a sissy! (I have the greatest respect for Dan in other matters, the irony is that he actually makes a living out of upgrading driving light circuits with new wiring and relays, among other things!) My Aspen has a factory ammeter shunt, mopar finally saw the light (a bit dim, but anyway...), but as things grow old and fragile, I see no reason for not upgrading to a safe and more modern standard. For me, the only exception would be restoring a car to original state.

My slantsix is going to run for many, many years to come, the problem is how to make me and the rest of the car do the same.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Olaf, please try harder to avoid making up stuff I never said and mischaracterising my opinions. Thanks.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, have you no sense of humor? It was meant as a funny comment to something written in a post by someone else, I don't really expect you to be driving around looking for burning trucks either...
Olaf.

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Aspenized

Olaf, See that smile on Dan's face in the photo. That is pretty much always there. Imagine that smile when you read all his posts, and you will get the true impression of Dan. My impression was he got the humor, and was replying in kind. I could be wrong, but I prefer to see it that way. Call it the glass half full syndrome.

SAm

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I have no complaints, Sam, I totally agree!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

I have made an update to the original post, Sep 19 (local time, I'm way ahead of you...)

Olaf.

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Aspenized

I like the voltmeters installed in newer cars. It gives me the information I need without passing all that current through a gauge.

Voltmeter reads about 14v? Alternator is charging. Reads 16v? Overcharging. Reads 12v? Not charging. Simple. If you bypass the ammeter circuit you can install a voltmeter under the dash.

If you just want to bypass the ammeter without changing the wires in the bulkhead connectors, just hook both wires to the same post on the ammeter (clean them too!). You don't need to connect them together with a bolt.

Usually the cause of 2" of burned wire is that the ammeter connections were corroded or loose, causing heat. If you go to check these connections, you should first remove the "outer" nut, remove the connector, tighten the "inner" nut, then reinstall the connector & "outer" nut. If you don't tighten the "inner" nut you can still get heat buildup at the connection.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster