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Engine cooling headache
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41959		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  nottrndy [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 5:37 am ]
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Wow! I really appreciate the responses. I also asked about the steel insert on the lower hose and was told that they don't even make them anymore. When I flushed it I did not remove that plug. I didn't think about the timing marks being off, I'll have to look closer at that. I also never considered it could be running lean. I didn't think there was an airdam but thanks for the confirmation. I'll have to check all of this out and see what I have. Thank you everybody, I'll keep you posted.
Author:  nottrndy [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 6:18 am ]
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BTW Reed, the car is a 79 Aspen wagon. It has the one barrel carb and stock ignition. Nothing has been modified on this car (yet) Its also running a 4-speed w/ overdrive if that matters here.
Author:  olafla [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 9:11 am ]
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Quote:
Its impossible to collapse a lower radiator hose if the cooling system is pressurized. Its been many (20+?) years since a new lower hose included a reinforcing spring.
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I also asked about the steel insert on the lower hose and was told that they don't even make them anymore
In theory I may agree, in the real world my car is only 33 years old, the 1978 (I haven't the '79 in front of me right now) workshop manual's diagnostic page and chapter on radiator hoses both refer to " The reinforcement spring inside the lower hose to prevent collapsing of the hose at medium and high engine speeds". It may be a section from an old manual that has not been taken out, but the fact is that it is there.

I have just purchased new radiator, fan and hoses from USA, and the lower hose, a Gates #20949 (from Rock Auto), came with a metal spiral insert.

Olaf.
Author:  Reed [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 9:53 am ]
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Quote:
BTW Reed, the car is a 79 Aspen wagon. It has the one barrel carb and stock ignition. Nothing has been modified on this car (yet) Its also running a 4-speed w/ overdrive if that matters here.
That is odd. Starting in 1977, all F-body and M-body wagons that had a six cylinder were two barrel engines. Only 1976 Aspen and Volare wagons came from the factory with a one barrel carb and a slant six. You also mentioned that this engine has a clutch fan. Those didn't appear stock until the 80s. Also, some F-bodies, usually those with A/C and/or a towing package, did come with fan shrouds. F-bodies could be ordered with several appearance packages that included a air dam, but it wasn't critical to cooling.

It sounds to me like someone has been in your motor before you. Find the green and white emissions sticker in the engine compartment. It should tell you if the car was built with a one or two barrel carb. I would definitely check for vibration dampener slip. You will need a piston stop tool and some whiteout. I have posted before how to use a piston stop tool to check for dampener slip, do a search on the website.

I would also check for vacuum leaks, identify which carburetor you have on there, make sure the carburetor is adjusted properly, remove that plug and clean out the block, do as Sandy suggested and check your timing advance curve, and check for vibration dampener slip.
Author:  olafla [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:47 am ]
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Reed, didn't the California wagons come with a one-barrel?

Olaf
Author:  Reed [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:58 am ]
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That I don't know for sure. Possibly.

Allpar says that the two barrel wasn't available on California cars, even wagons: http://www.allpar.com/model/volare.html
Author:  lowbudget [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 1:32 pm ]
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I just pulled a big radiator. shroud and thermo fan yesterday out of a 78 Volare air conditioned car. Bolted right up except for trans lines in my 77 Aspen. I can't believe I forgot to grab those. Looks like I'll be headed back to grab them tonight.
Author:  Reed [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 4:01 pm ]
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Huh, guess I was wrong about the clutch fan. I can't recall ever seeing one stock on an F-body, but, I haven't seen all F-bodies ever made. :oops:
Author:  olafla [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 4:41 pm ]
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lowbudget, was the fan off a V8 or a slantsix?

Olaf
Author:  lowbudget [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 8:05 pm ]
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Slant six Super Six set up. From all the reading I've done I don't think V-8 radiator or shroud will fit. I think though some 318 themo fans will work.
Author:  olafla [ Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:44 pm ]
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lowbudget, the radiator hose fittings for the V8's are placed differently

Olaf
Author:  nottrndy [ Tue Sep 21, 2010 12:43 am ]
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If the car was modified, it happened a long time ago. The previous owner gave me the original carb off of it. It was replaced with the same thing. Not sure why though. I also have a fan shroud on mine. Thanks for the line on the lower hose with metal insert. I'm willing to try anything at this point. I'm going to get to all of you recomendations by the end of the week. Thanks again for all of your guidance.
Author:  olafla [ Tue Sep 21, 2010 1:08 am ]
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Just keep us updated, and we'll be happy :D

Olaf
Author:  nottrndy [ Fri Sep 24, 2010 10:33 am ]
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You asked for updates, well here it is. Took the car to a carb expert this morning(carbs and I don't mix well) It was running a bit lean. He doubled checked the timing and it was dead on. Coming home, I used the same stretch of highway that I've been testing it on, and the temperature only rose to just shy of 210. A vast impovement considering its over 90 degrees outside. The mechanic also recomended that I use a higher octane fuel and clean the carbon from the fuel system. I needed to replace the tank anyway due to leaking, so thats going to be the next step in this car's rebirth. I'm also still considering a larger radiator, but with it supposed to start cooling off outside I may wait until next summer for that. Thanks for all your help and guidance. Hopefully one day I'll be able to return the favor.
Author:  Josh P [ Fri Sep 24, 2010 12:01 pm ]
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Glad to hear your car is running much better!

One thing I'd like to point out though. As stated earlier, the timing mark on the vibration dampener can (and often does) slip which would cause the timing mark to not accurately reflect the actual timing. So when you say the mechanic checked the timing and it was dead on, do you mean he checked that the timing mark is accurate or that the initial timing seemed to be correct? If its the former, then awesome. However, if its the later, I would still encourage you to check that the timing mark accurately reflects the #1 piston position...
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