I think it's a glazed clutch disc, maybe from a rear main seal leak. If it happens only when you depress the clutch pedal, then release bearing failure is a likely cause.

He said it didn't matter if the clutch was in or out, so throwout bearing or glazed clutch is not likely. He also said he removed all belts and still had the noise, so it can't be the alt./a.c./p.s./water pump/etc. He said he checked the balancer as well, so that pretty much eliminates everything other than the engine itself. I'm afraid he will need to drop the pan to find this noise. Not what you want to hear, but it seems the most likely answer.

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Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car

It could still be a torn membrane in the power brake unit.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

update ..... okay found no leaks at the intake manifold, but I did get some movement allready on my rebushed carb shaft , so I had a a new holley 1945 from a 6cyl ford 6cyl my carb was little different as it had a bowl vent and this carb didn't, and the ford carb had a return spring set mounted on the shaft, I tried to switch just the tops of the carbs but the linkage on the acc.pump was different lengths so I drilled out the bowl vent set up in the new carb I compared jet sizes with the back side of a drill and they were the same I put on the carb and dialed it all in (I have the smoothest idle ever) drove nice down to the store gas station I put some gas in and headed home up hill it was back a little different more like a balloon being held at the end as the airs gets let out, definatly a vac leak. allthough I have a little more vac at idle with the new carb and lots more with my foot on the gas not like before when it would go down to nothing. I hit it pretty hard the closer I got to home nope no way its the clutch cause I still had plenty of pulling power. I get home and start testing vac equipment with my mighty vac hand tester and found the dist vac advance to not be holding vacuum a torn diagram. I call autozone and they have a complete dist for $40. I hope the curve will be okay cause who knows what I'll actually get allthough it will have a good diapram. thanks so much everyone I'll keep you posted. the best thing is that means I should get alot better mileage when this is all said and done.... I do have a super six set up but I didn't want to get in to broken bolts this weekend if I didn't have too. also I think I want to buy one of those new holley 2brls off ebay. and I can't decide between the cast iron intake I have (has been a little modified to an open plane) or I have a stocker porous aluminum . ...... thanks again everyone

OK I will toot my own horn Nailed it! Happy dance time!

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

okay plugged it went for drive still there but not as loud again much better vacuum with my foot into it. ahhg........ checked the booster with my mighty vac and it holds good vacuum but the grommet going into the booster looks a little weathered so I'm going to find a new one when I pick up the dist. tested my charcoal canister as it was tee'd into the line with the dist. and checked good as well. sprayed carb cleaner around again and nothing nothing with the stethoscope either. gotta be getting closer to answer earlier question yes it was a used trans I inspected though it was put in atleast 6 months ago I drive it almost 50 miles a day to work clutch was all new with surface of a flywheel. this problem did happen out of the blue on the way home I had done nothing to the truck lately(except gas and drive) I heard the squeak on the way home and I though oh its the belts so I tightened them up and did an oil change that I was due for. I also cleaned the motor as I always do when I do the oil change nothing different there. I've owned the truck over a year and in that time its used maybe a total of 1 quart of oil in between oil changes combined. so its not a leaker or a burner. by sound I convinced its a v.leak but maybe that wishful thinking

I guess I danced to soon

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

I changed the booster check valve grommet,change the pcv valve, found a leak in the temp sensor in the air cleaner, I disconnected that but noise still there. not much else to check vacuum wise.........

OK lets think about it. Do you have any non factory vacuum accessories? Vacuum gauge in the cab? Are your heat & A/C controls vacuum? You are doing good by eliminating items one at a time. Are you isolating the vacuum lines at the manifold and not farther down the line? Have you tried blowing the carb spray down inside the various vacuum lines incase one has a partial blockage?

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

i have a factory vacuum cage I checked it with the mighty vac pulling it off the vacuum tee it checked good. But nothing else than factory at this point I've pulled everything off one by one either the carb or tee and the bad stuff has been the dist, and the air cleaner temp sensor both now disconnected truck doesn't have a/c so there is no vacuum hooked up there.

"Are you isolating the vacuum lines at the manifold and not farther down the line?" yes I am

this engine - a Ford 351 bent type,made no knocking,and still had some oil pressure. But what it did do was squeal - quite loud.
I hope for your sake that it is not some mechanical disaster, but the sound is possible to come from within an engine.

regards,Rod

If you have the 'tree' full of vacuum hose outlets attached to the intake manifold's inner branch, beware! Those 'trees' are made of some $#!+ metal that cracks and leaks, and if not already done, you should replace it with a single high quality nipple for the vacuum hose to the power brake booster attached there.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

yeah I was thinking that I have my vac gauge and air cleaner as well as the booster hooked up to it though I could probably find something a little more well built. ............... I know it could be internal engine wise but I am being optimistic as I have faith in my trusty slant, she only letting me know she needs a little attention.... as I've been working on a ford exploder in the garage for a friend she's jealous. any way if it was a bearing wouldn't I hear it just the same if I down shifted and the revs came up but I don't only under a load and its not rpm specific. .... I'm not giving up yet but I"m done for today

That is not correct routing of the vacuum lines. The charcoal canister and distributor vacuum advance should have separate vacuum outlets on the 1945 carburetor body (the latter via the OSAC valve, which you should bypass anyway). See the pics in this link from the Carburetor operation & repair information in the engine FAQ.

If you have a vacuum gauge, is it connected to manifold- or ported vacuum, and what does it show when you hear the sound?

Olaf

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Aspenized