Well, I don't agree. The cheapest, crudest, nastiest cost-engineered hunk-of-garbage engine will generally not experience a failure related to inadequate oil filtration within a 150,000-mile lifespan at least. More robust engine designs such as the Slant-6 will carry on in mechanically fine condition for several hundred thousand miles without an oil filtration-related failure. So…where's the lack?
It depends on how you define "all the time". 6k filter changes and 12k oil changes with off-the-shelf Mobil-1 are perfectly reasonable for an engine in good condition warmed up to full operating temperature on at least a semi-regular basis. The 3k oil change is a gigantic scam, even for older cars, given the vast improvement in today's oils over yesterday's.
That makes life a great deal easier as far as engine oil is concerned. It will stay much cleaner!
Okeh, yeah, thanks for the warning, I'ma gonna drop off this thread and go get my tinfoil hat.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So, you've never used one, I take it. It has nothing to do with tinfoil and lots to do with filtration and adsorption. I have used one, seen the effects and my dad was a mechanic for many years. I got to see 60's engines with oodles of miles that were nice and clean on the inside because the owner used a TP based filter, and even with extended oil change intervals ( 5 to 10K miles back then), the engines were clean as can be.

I have seen the results, no tinfoil hats needed.

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.

I added the Accusump system after several articles in the forum discussed the merits of prelube for the engine prior to startup. I believe Doc has a manual system in that he throws a valve near his seat open to discharge the oil into the block.

I like the solenoid system so that I can minimize the line lengths & simply place the key into the on position to activate the solenoid & discharge. I wait about 15 seconds before starting the Sl6 since at that point more than half of the stored pressure head has been dissipated....of course the engine light goes off instantly when the solenoid is activated.

The largest oil port to the engine exists at the oil filter mounting so using the remote oil filter gains access to that port. Since the engine tightness or resistance will largely determine oil flow rate, the pressure drop in the lines must vary based on whether the engine is severely worn (highest oil flow rate) versus new & tight.

I climbed into a Volare SL6 taxi with severe interior wear in SF 2 decades ago & asked the cabby how many miles......he offered 550k. I asked him how many rebuilds.....he responded none & that the company policy is to keep the engine running at all times including driver changes & gas fillups to avoid rebuilds, starter/battery replacements, & minimize oil changes.

Since I have 50 psi at 2000 rpm headed into engine oil port(standard oil filter outlet) I wonder how that compares to any pressure readings others have taken (like at the oil pressure sending switch). My engine has only the original 60K & the only improvement was I put new rod bearings in when I inspected the bottom end & cleaned the inside of the oil pan.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/