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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 4:48 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2010 7:09 am
Posts: 17
Location: Edwardsburg, MI
Car Model:
I had the same problem with my build last week. I degreed the cam and it was saying 114.5 degrees on the intake centerline to TDC. I modified the cam gear and finally ended with 101 degrees. However, the dots never lined up to begin with and they DEFINITELY don't line up now, but all the timing events are correct by the degree wheel. I can tell you that even though degreeing it was a pain, I think the end result was much more confidence inspiring.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 11:33 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:45 pm
Posts: 578
Location: Orange County
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I talked to the guy I got my cam and he said "its the most common stock grind" he said 260/260 lift and 162 degrees at .050....... does this sound right? He wants to charge me to make up a cam card.... what bull


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24510
Location: North America
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Quote:
I talked to the guy I got my cam and he said "its the most common stock grind" he said 260/260 lift and 162 degrees at .050....... does this sound right? He wants to charge me to make up a cam card.... what bull
The most common stock grind is 244° intake duration, 244° exhaust duration, 26° overlap, 0.414" lift. These are all "advertised" figures, not "at 50" figures. He wants to charge you to make an item that should have come with the cam...? Um, no.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 1:26 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:45 pm
Posts: 578
Location: Orange County
Car Model:
thats why i grabbed the cam, said ill be back, and gave him a wink, and shook my head walking out, he knows he lost a customer, i went to him for all my chevy stuff.

any idea how to get advertised out of the numbers he gave me, or .050 numbers from any of the advertised numbers you have>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 2:02 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13104
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Stick the cam in the block, get a degree wheel, a dial gauge, a magnetic mount for the dial gauge, and a pad of paper and a pencil, and map it out. Tedious, but about the only way you can map the cam events.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 2:05 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
See this list of factory SL6 cams for the advertised durations.
The ".260" is lift at the lifter, that is .390 lift advertised. (1.5 rocker arm ratio)
DD

http://www.dutra.org/dutraorg/pictures/ ... -specs.jpg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 2:14 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:45 pm
Posts: 578
Location: Orange County
Car Model:
i figured .390 for total lift, if these rockers really roll a 1.5. is that a good stock cam figure, that link only had advertised duration, no lift numbers. im in the process of getting a nice set of dial indicator and mag base, im either thinking starrett or brown and sharpe. every time i have done degree'ing was at my buddies shop and i used his harbor freight crap. which works perfectly fine but, when i buy my own $#!+, it will be good stuff.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:55 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:45 pm
Posts: 578
Location: Orange County
Car Model:
Bump. Wondering if cam I have is okay or find a real stock cam


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