This particular topic gets the crap beaten out of it quite often if I remember correctly. I've taken part in a few myself. I know people who have run headers for years and not had a problem while others have nothing but problems. Seems to be hit and miss with headers sometimes.

For my purposes only, I have found Dutra's manifolds to be extremely easy to use. Keeping to stock rear half of the manifold makes the swap easier for those on a budget who are not necessarily able to go about fabricating a new kickdown linkage setup (For automatics) and/or manifold heat (for those who wish to retain it). In these factors alone I see the Dutra manifolds as a solid economical way to do what you want to get done.

I also personally prefer to give my $$ to a rock solid man of his word whom with I share my personal taste in engine choice, and when possible, speak with in person.

That being said, I feel that for someone new to the game who may not be quite sure on the way they want to go with their engine and who may not have the resources to modify other parts of the car, the Dutra manifold setups shine.

Your mileage may vary.

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yeah, you were. If you were able to start from cold with no choke, your carb was jetted way too rich and you were pissing away gasoline no matter what mileage you were getting. This is about as arguable as a question of whether square wheels are a good idea or a suggestion that the sun might choose to rise in the North tomorrow morning instead of the East.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Here we go again...

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

I fail to see how 0° cold starts have anything to do with Headers vs. Dutras, and if that's true, it isn't worth arguing about.

.02¢

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

So what about if I live in New Zealand?

With the weight, I'm guessing even a front Dutra would be $100 to ship.

AussieSpeed headers are the main choice. Maybe ceramic coating before delivery to extend life?

Then your six slants the other direction, you have to be careful the beer doesn't all spill out the bottle when you open it ('cause you're standing upside down), and you have a totally different situation with regard to extractors -- no steering gearbox in the way, so much greater leeway for pipes to travel through the space without being bent a million ways (and pulling the flange plate all cattywumpus), and if I'm not mistaken there's nothing such as anything other than warm weather there.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ah-ha.... I'd forgotten about the advantage of right-hand drive.

Excellent.... 1 5/8 long clean primary pipes into true dual exhaust it is then.

These should do the job nicely:

http://www.aussiespeed.com/index.php?pa ... &Itemid=23

It's a point of not needing a choke, which is one of Dan's whines about why Dutras are better. I'm not arguing about which are better I have never used Dutra Duals. I am simply commenting on my experience.

If I was dumping fuel and money out my tail pipe by the double fist it would manifest its self as poor economy.
All a choke does is create a rich condition and increase idle speed until the engine warms up enough to allow for lower rpm's and a leaner idle mixture. Jetting has no effect on idle circuit or idle mixture unless your idle circuit is in poor enough condition that you need to open the throttle plates to maintain idle speed.

But now we are way off topic.

My point is if you can get a good set of headers and set them up properly they can be a viable alternative to a stock exhaust. I personally can not afford Dutras new, I have to get my performance parts second hand. I have never seen a Dutra Dual for sale at a swap meet, even one as large as Carlisle, but every year there are 2-3 sets of headers.

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I think what Dan was trying to say was that, without a hotspot under the carburetor, cold weather driveability would be poor. If you can get this engine to start immediately and run smoothly without a choke in cold weather, your fuel mixture is probably very rich.

I found that my engine with headers and a chokeless carb (BBS and AFB) did not start well even during the summer here in Ontario. The lack of a hotspot resulted in a major off-idle bog that I could not cure even by going to a super rich metering rod in the AFB.

Going back to the subject of this topic, I think that Dutras are better because they last longer than headers. In my case, I bought a set of Clifford headers back in the late 1980s and had them aluminum sprayed for corrosion resistance. Later on, I found that the heat given off from the headers caused my idle to become poor if I idled for very long. I then insulated them with header wrap, which did help to keep the heat down. However, after a few years, the headers corroded at the bends, which is why I went to Dutras (dual fronts). The wrap probably accelerated the internal corrosion but I think they would have rusted out eventually anyway, even though my car is only summer-driven.

Depends on what part of NZ :

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

To ship a Dutra front section to New Zealand using USPS - FRB costs $45.50
DD

I have one DDD, and want another so I can eliminate my stock manifold.

Converting to an electric choke is a given, and since my convertible is a summer driver in Texas, manifold heat is a minor problem. If I find I need it, I can fabricate what I need.

Right now, I'm working on a different mounting method for the linkage, and it looks rather easy.

However, my big problem is finding an exhaust pipe to mate with the manifolds. Out here in East Texas, I can't even find a shop that will replace the stock pipe! I've visited four shops and called several others, and none of them want to mess with it. I have a dime-sized rust-out already and had to put a temporary patch on it until I find a shop to do the job.

Doug, I'd love to see you come up with a pipe configuration for your dual manifolds that would be a bolt and weld in kit for some of our old cars, especially for those with shift cables to work around.

Oi Slanty....... shhhhh! The more people think we don't have snow, the more fresh tracks I get!

And only $45 to ship, Doc? Crikey...... well, considering that the AS headers/extractors are $525, your prices work for me!

On top of that, I'd bet I'd be one of a very select handful of guys running Dutra Duals down-under....

$45 for a front DD to NZ? well, i'd say it'd have to be about the same to here in Oz, huh?

I would love to run a fresh front and rear (Dual Dutra Duals) to mate up with my Speco twin Carter BBS intake.

pray tell, wise one - how much for the pair of duals including shipping to Oz? (postcode = 3015)

if it comes in close to the cost of extractors, i'd be very interested (and yeah, it would be unique to run DD's on a true dual exhaust system - everyone here runs extractors, mainly to single 2.25" or 2.5")

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Chris


The Wayfarers

six 'n out

Going into the exporting business Doug?

Until I installed the nasty cam, I had no problems running without a choke or carb heat. (RV15M RDP)

With the shag-nasty cam, it won't idle until I get better than 150°F of coolant temperature at the pump supply port. (Formerly referred to as the heater hose outlet.) Fortunately, it never snows during the racing season, except at MATS, but that's not really so much a race as a Moparty.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing