Slant Six Forum :: engine knock?

well the bolts definately took care of the tinny noise and snugged everything up. So I gave it a test start after tightening the throttle cable and adjusting the dist a micro. The monster fired right up and after one quick step on the throttle,nothing lengthly just a rap it shut down. I was correct about the knock as there is now a large chunck of block ready to come off if not for the bracket from trans to block under the starter holding it kind of in place. Well now I know what the problem was and its getting covered until vacations over. Dont want to go and be bummed for a week over this. Maybe Ill be looking for a short block when I get back. I do apreciate all the help and advice from everyone. Talk again in 10 days.

Author:	65CrewCabPW [ Thu Aug 18, 2011 5:38 pm ]
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Quote: well the bolts definately took care of the tinny noise and snugged everything up. So I gave it a test start after tightening the throttle cable and adjusting the dist a micro. The monster fired right up and after one quick step on the throttle,nothing lengthly just a rap it shut down. I was correct about the knock as there is now a large chunck of block ready to come off if not for the bracket from trans to block under the starter holding it kind of in place. Well now I know what the problem was and its getting covered until vacations over. Dont want to go and be bummed for a week over this. Maybe Ill be looking for a short block when I get back. I do apreciate all the help and advice from everyone. Talk again in 10 days. I have a rebuildable slant core. in fact, if you're real serious about it, you could probably do some teardown, clean up, and run it as it is. Some joker did this engine and did a terrible (as in no idea what he was doing) rebuild on it. I was going to rebuild it and turbo it for a truck, but that never materialized.

Author:	Dizzydean [ Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:23 pm ]
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thanks crew I still have the original 67 motor out of the dart I may get into it when we get back but thats for another day. Appreciate the help. Ill probably look for your assistance around then. My million $ ? is what happened to the pressure. as i said everything was new.

Author:	Doc [ Fri Aug 19, 2011 9:10 am ]
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Fast bottom-end failures in a SL6 are usually caused by: - Oil Pump / drive gear failure. (that usually takes more time then your engine ran) - Incorrect bearing oil clearance(s) caused by poorly reconditioned crank journal(s), con rod bore(s), a cap that was installed "backwords" or incorrectly torqued. DD

Author:	Dizzydean [ Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:11 pm ]
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65crewI started tearing apart the 67 block. Ill be looking for a reliable machine shop to do most of the assembly at least the lower end. Doc I believe the backwards journal may be the culprit as I recall when putting it together only half the rods were numbered and I remember scratching my head a couple times if I had them right. Well at least I have enough new parts to save on some cost. Any ideas how to tell if a new oil pump is operating properly,is htere any way to prime these? Ill keep you guys posted on progress. Thanks for all the help.

Author:	Dizzydean [ Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:23 pm ]
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I forgot to add where do we get our pistons from? The grenaded block has .030 but Im considering going bigger. Thanks

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engine knock? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45970	Page 2 of 2

Author:	Jeb [ Fri Sep 02, 2011 6:11 am ]
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Wiseco makes slant six pistons, They are pricey but it's the only ones I know of off the top of my head.

Author:	Dart270 [ Fri Sep 02, 2011 6:18 am ]
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For builds up to 250HP or even higher, stock cast replacements are fine. FYI, a stock Slant in reality makes about 120 HP, so doubling that is quite significant. Many manufacturers make decent ones - Enginetech, Silvolite... Any parts store or places like rockauto.com or summitracing.com can get them for around $10-20/piston. Should have off-the-shelf options up to 0.080" over. Lou

Author:	Dizzydean [ Sun Oct 09, 2011 8:26 am ]
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Hey guys its been a while. I finally got the rebuilt and my original 67 torn down and apart. Everything that I thought was incorrect wasn't. First the rod that let go was #6 and the 5 mile bearings were paper thin just short of welding themselves together. All other bearings had from minor scratches to extreme wear marks. I believe the rod let go due to lack of material just a guess. As I was going through my rebuild kits block plugs I noticed the threaded galley plugs and saw two. I had been reading on the oil flow mods and wanted to see how the shop did with the dead motor. I recall when he gave me the parts (i did the assembly) there was only 1 of those so I put it in the back not knowing there were 2. After I got it all running I noticed oil constantly flowing from the timing cover,no pressure unless I revved, and a minor knock before detonation. I think I found the problem. I checked the sump thinking I had it on wrong but its the same as the 67 so my very badd in not knowing about the 2 plugs. I won't make that mistake again.

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