Slant Six Forum :: Seafoam???

Water works for me too instead of Seafoam. I just use a little water/alcohol injection to keep things nice and crisp.
It is on a separate valve so I can regulate flow or turn it off. The engine runs crisp, quick starts and instant shut offs!

I just shot some down the carb with it running until it stalls, then let it sit for 15 minutes. When you start it back up be sure to tell your neighbors so they won't call the fire department.

Ted, what kind of water injection? Like a setup from the 70's gas crisis era or is it just an occasion application of water and alcohol? I'd love to hear more!

vacuum line to to a port/fitting on the 1920 carb. It is about half way up or mid point on the carb body. It dumps out just above or even with the venturi

Author:	Old Car Scott [ Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:04 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Water/alcohol injection
Quote: Water works for me too instead of Seafoam. I just use a little water/alcohol injection to keep things nice and crisp. It is on a separate valve so I can regulate flow or turn it off. The engine runs crisp, quick starts and instant shut offs! Ted, what kind of water injection? Like a setup from the 70's gas crisis era or is it just an occasion application of water and alcohol? I'd love to hear more! Quote: I just shot some down the carb with it running until it stalls, then let it sit for 15 minutes. When you start it back up be sure to tell your neighbors so they won't call the fire department. I've heard of guys doing the exact same thing with automatic transmission fluid and B12 Chemtool combo.

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:50 am ]
Post subject:
Old Car Scott, Quote: Ted, what kind of water injection? Like a setup from the 70's gas crisis era or is it just an occasion application of water and alcohol? I'd love to hear more! This is a experiment on my 74 Dart Swinger........which is not a endorsement. The goal is to keep the engine crisp and running cleaner, hoping not to carbon foul the rings and plugging them up over time there by loosing compression and polluting the oil with fuel and carbon debris. And in this case cleaning up a horribly maintained used SL6 engine with over 100,000 miles on it after sitting unused in a barn under a pile of hay for nearly 10 years. Yes, like in the 70's but with a slight twist. I was in the Power Mech program at Western Washington State College. We built several mileage cars and raced them from BC to Mexico with other colleges. While I was at school I was given a alcohol water injection unit to run from a company, I can't remember their name, however, it did not perform like I wanted it to. The company representative plumbed it into my Chevy 283 engine. It ran all the time the engine was on. The instructions were to tap into the manifold vacuum. The higher the vacuum the more it pulled fluid in which was at idle........not what and engine needs at idle and not a good design. It used about a #60 in line jet for metering. So ......about 10 years ago I thought about the concept again and decided to give it a try. Since the stock SL6 is very low compression it would be a great way of keeping it clean internally. That way I could eliminate that uneven popping idle. If you pull the heads on 30+ year old SL6 engines, they do collect some carbon which can build up. I think we all have seen the accumulations during rebuilds. This time I wanted to hook it up so it only pulls on demand at rpms above 2000 which is 50 mph on my car. So I installed a small square radiator overflow tank and brass valve in front of the existing radiator over flow for the alcohol and water mix. I usually use the winter time Blue wind shield washer fluid which has enough alcohol in it to keep it from freezing. From there I ran a clear yellowish tinted silicone vacuum line to to a port/fitting on the 1920 carb. It is about half way up or mid point on the carb body. It dumps out just above or even with the venturi on my Economaster. Click on the red link below my name to view the photos. This is a very simple system, no fancy pumps. I have it set so at idle it does not engage. When you reach around 2000 rpm then the vacuum is strong enough to draw it out of the tank. You can watch it through the transparent silicone line. When you drop below 2000 rpm it stops. It keeps the engine running crisp. Idle is steady as a clock, no pops or putts out the exhaust and the throttle response is very responsive. Shut offs are clean and quick. Running two heat ranges lower plugs NGK (UR6) per SL6 Dan's recommendation look and stay very clean.

Author:	Old Car Scott [ Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:53 am ]
Post subject:
Ted, that is a really good system. I may try that out myself!

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Thu Aug 25, 2011 11:23 am ]
Post subject:
Accompanied by frequent oil changes the old barn find is cleaning up very well over the past two years.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Thu Aug 25, 2011 1:23 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: vacuum line to to a port/fitting on the 1920 carb. It is about half way up or mid point on the carb body. It dumps out just above or even with the venturi That's the venturi vacuum port, originally intended to provide vacuum signal to the EGR vacuum relay ("amplifier" as Chrysler calls it). It is present on '73-up carburetors.

Slant Six Forum https://slantsix.org/forum/

Seafoam??? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46038	Page 2 of 2

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Thu Aug 25, 2011 3:26 pm ]
Post subject:
Thanks Dan, had a brain fade.......all could think of was where the hockey puck was once connected. No EGR on this one. I usually block it off and loose the mess of hoses.

Page 2 of 2	All times are UTC-08:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/