They have them new for $180 at silver-seal.com.

Try fixing the one you have.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Kevin,

On one of my motors I am running with out the flapper/diverter. I opened it up inside to flow more. Instead of the welding the shaft holes, I just drilled them out a little and installed stainless steel bolts with low profile heads and the nuts and lock washers on the outside. That motor also has a aluminum intake which warms up and cools off very quickly so no heat soak problems like the cast iron intakes. It actually gets better mileage than the stock cast iron intake with the working heat diverter.

Even though the manifold is older it will work. Hopefully you don't live in Alaska or are running a Lean Burn System.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

lean burn is going away very soon and I also have an aluminum intake. I was thinking of tapping the holes and threading bolts in.

Kevin

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crossthreads are better than locktite

Great thread. I too am wrestling with a worn out heat riser on my 63 Valiant. I'd like to keep mine in the open position going forward until I can replace the manifold.

I know this is taking the idea of "there's never a dumb question" to the limit, but (as I can't actually see the valve in action without prying apart manifolds) do I want to turn the valve all the way clockwise, or counter clockwise to ensure it's open?

Thanks!