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my block is bent?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46219
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Author:  Pallazzo [ Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:00 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Palazzo, the original information about pressure is from the US factory manual '1978 CHRYSLER PLYMOUTH DODGE Chassis-Body Service Manual'. The pressure is given in psi, the info in the spanish version is in metric units kg/cm². Maybe there could have been some confusion abot conversion factors in the original translation?

It makes me curious; where is the engine assembled? If not in the USA, is you manual an original issue from the assembly plant?

Olaf.
Olaf:

i did read in other post the best compression for an older slanty is 150 psi, then the only thing that i goin to do is trust in MY engine manual.

Author:  hantayo13 [ Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:14 pm ]
Post subject: 

if it runs and doesn't use oil or smoke .....RUN IT

Author:  hantayo13 [ Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:18 pm ]
Post subject: 

if it runs and doesn't use oil or smoke .....RUN IT

Author:  Pallazzo [ Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:30 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
if it runs and doesn't use oil or smoke .....RUN IT
yes it runs, but like a snail... and overheating like a bi... well you know... and that is the reason to take me a time to write and ask what can i do with that problem...

thanks everyone...

from Chile.

PD: si alguien habla o escribe español mandenme un PM para intercambiar informacion

Author:  Fopar [ Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:36 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Quote:
if it runs and doesn't use oil or smoke .....RUN IT
yes it runs, but like a snail... and overheating like a bi... well you know... and that is the reason to take me a time to write and ask what can i do with that problem...

thanks everyone...

from Chile.

PD: si alguien habla o escribe español mandenme un PM para intercambiar informacion

translation---

If someone speaks or writes Spanish send me a PM to exchange information

Author:  ceej [ Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:42 pm ]
Post subject: 

What is your ignition timing set to? Too much advance can result in overheating. I suffer from that when I try to road drive my car. Around town, no problem, but it gets pretty toasty trying to cruise up the freeway.

You said something about the water coming out of the radiator cap when off. Are you seeing froth, or is it just turbulence blowing water out? Turbulence is normal.

What Thermostat are you using. Most slants work best with a 195° F T-Stat.

CJ

Author:  Pallazzo [ Tue Sep 06, 2011 7:15 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
What is your ignition timing set to? Too much advance can result in overheating. I suffer from that when I try to road drive my car. Around town, no problem, but it gets pretty toasty trying to cruise up the freeway.

You said something about the water coming out of the radiator cap when off. Are you seeing froth, or is it just turbulence blowing water out? Turbulence is normal.

What Thermostat are you using. Most slants work best with a 195° F T-Stat.

CJ
my history is this... almost one year ago comes rammstein to Santiago Chile... and i have the "great idea" to go in the Aspen from Viña to Santiago (120 kms to go 120 to back obviously) and when me and mi wife comes to Viña after concert, our Aspen (whit the temp sensor bad)... get boil in the route... i had stop each 10 mins to refill the radiator because it had a hole like a 2 or 3 mm and i didn´t had nothing to repair it... the loyalty Aspen let us in the house but with a high cost. the head gasket goes to the hell... i change it without rectify the head, and the car runs how 7 months and then fails again the compression pass to the water ( when i acelerate whit the engine on and the radiator cap off the water jumps out the rad and wet the hood and all engine by the fan.. jeje... then i call a friend specialized on french cars like citroen or peugeot and he tell me if the oil is free of water the problem is the gasket, then i take the head and carry it to rectify, change exhaust valves and reapair any problem. when the head back... i put it again and the problem is here again boiling water after 15 mins... the distribuitor is ok, the timing chain is ok, the thermostat is 86°C 187°F and is ok too i prove it in boiling water out of the engine the hoses are ok, then i think with my friend to take compression and results so bad... and i think... now the head is flat because was rectifyed... and the block maybe bent by the overheating when rammstein comes to Chile..jejeje for this reason the compression pass to the water... and we want to take out the engine and carry the block to repair the surface then the 2 surfaces will be flat and the gasket will stay pressed uniformly... and replace the rings from pistons just for routine.

well that is the history... a little bore... thank for read it.

Author:  ceej [ Tue Sep 06, 2011 7:34 pm ]
Post subject: 

OK, that helps.

Check for cracks. That can be done at the machine shop when you have the block and head resurfaced. If all is well, what head gasket are you using?

How much did the machine shop have to cut off the head to true it up?

Get a new head if yours has cracks. If it's the block, then look for different engine.

Cracks can be repaired, but rarely is this successful.

CJ

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