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Propane Truck (new thread) What's With This Coloring?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46642		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  FrankRaso [ Sat Oct 15, 2011 11:55 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I've been trying to find the parts to move the fill from the tank to the place where I removed the gas tank filler (not far apart) and am not having much luck. Just can't seem to find the fittings. Perhaps I don't have the right name or something. We fill it using the big round screw on connector that normally has a plastic cap (not plug) over the top, and contains a one way valve.
Before you do any relocating, you should familiarize yourself with NPFA 58, which can be viewed for free. Now would be a good time to make sure that your system is compliant with the regulation.

New ASME motorfuel tanks are equipped with auto-stop fill valves. If your tank has one of these, then you don't need a spit valve (liquid level gauge) to know when the tank is full. The remote fill valve you require can be found in the Sherwood LPG catalog. You probably have a PN PVE1855SD on your tank. For a remote fill, you will need a PVE1855SVFD or a PVE1855SD-90 and a PVE1855BRCN. If you don't have an auto-stop fill valve, you will also need to relocate your spit valve (likely PN PVE12AD).

You will need to run a 1/2" CGA Type III hose with SAE flare connections to connect your remote fill valve. Using a 3/8" hose will noticeably slow down your fill rate.
Author:  frank79912 [ Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:11 pm ]
Post subject:  O2 sensor
Look at any of the dual fuel systems for gas and propane and the O2 sensor is ignored-propane doesnt burn like gasoline.
Author:  87D100 [ Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: O2 sensor
Quote:
Look at any of the dual fuel systems for gas and propane and the O2 sensor is ignored-propane doesnt burn like gasoline.
I don't know anything about propane, but I do know about O2 sensors. An O2 sensor only does one thing, it senses oxygen content in the exhaust and outputs a voltage signal dependent on that, again I reiterate "it senses oxygen content in the exhaust". An O2 sensor could care less if your burning gasoline, methane, natural gas, propane, butane, whatever. all it cares about is the oxygen. Oxygen is all it senses. Now the software that the O2 talks too, that's a different story.
rant over :D
Kevin
Author:  65CrewCabPW [ Sun Oct 16, 2011 10:44 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Before you do any relocating, you should familiarize yourself with NPFA 58, which can be viewed for free. Now would be a good time to make sure that your system is compliant with the regulation.

New ASME motorfuel tanks are equipped with auto-stop fill valves. If your tank has one of these, then you don't need a spit valve (liquid level gauge) to know when the tank is full. The remote fill valve you require can be found in the Sherwood LPG catalog. You probably have a PN PVE1855SD on your tank. For a remote fill, you will need a PVE1855SVFD or a PVE1855SD-90 and a PVE1855BRCN. If you don't have an auto-stop fill valve, you will also need to relocate your spit valve (likely PN PVE12AD).

You will need to run a 1/2" CGA Type III hose with SAE flare connections to connect your remote fill valve. Using a 3/8" hose will noticeably slow down your fill rate.
I have an older ASME tank. Yes, I have a spit valve. I looked through the catalog and found part of what I need. I used to find relocate kits on Ebay for cheap, back before I did this, but not anymore. Now BullyDog was some 500 bucks for one, which is sheer insanity. It should not cost more than a hundred bucks.

I'm quite sure I'm NFPA58 compliant, except for my fill, which needs to be relocated, because you have to get into the box to fill it. It's not closed in, however. That's not quite sufficient for me, however. I want to add a 2nd electrical lockout right at the valve (and some kind of blowoff to protect from overpressure in the line). I have a vac lockout right next to the converter under the hood. That way, even if the line from the tank gets damaged, electrical shut off will clamp off the fuel at the tank, even if somehow the line gets damaged.
Author:  FrankRaso [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 10:55 am ]
Post subject: 
You need to read NFPA 58 yourself to be sure but, the way I read the regulation, NFPA 58 does not appear to prohibit a filler valve located in the bed of a truck. It does, however, require that the shut-off valve be readily accessible. A remote filler valve would certainly be more convenient.

The tank valve you are thinking about is a solenoid service valve (see Ceodeux Instruction Manual). Your tank manufacturer would be best able to provide you with the exact valve you require. I would also seriously consider retrofitting the tank with an auto-stop fill valve, which would avoid the need to also add a spit valve to your remote location.

Between the liquid service valve at the tank and the fuel lock, you should have a hydrostatic relief valve tee'd into the liquid line. This would be equivalent to a Sherwood PV3865.

I highly recommend that you have a professional propane conversion shop inspect your installation.
Author:  65CrewCabPW [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 12:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
You need to read NFPA 58 yourself to be sure but, the way I read the regulation, NFPA 58 does not appear to prohibit a filler valve located in the bed of a truck. It does, however, require that the shut-off valve be readily accessible. A remote filler valve would certainly be more convenient.

The tank valve you are thinking about is a solenoid service valve (see Ceodeux Instruction Manual). Your tank manufacturer would be best able to provide you with the exact valve you require. I would also seriously consider retrofitting the tank with an auto-stop fill valve, which would avoid the need to also add a spit valve to your remote location.

Between the liquid service valve at the tank and the fuel lock, you should have a hydrostatic relief valve tee'd into the liquid line. This would be equivalent to a Sherwood PV3865.

I highly recommend that you have a professional propane conversion shop inspect your installation.
Frank, I wasn't trying to imply that having the filler in the truck was non compliant... I can find no reason to think it is, but it is against policy for every seller of propane I can find to fill my truck because of it :( I gotta get out and climb in and hook it up myself, they don't do it.

As for the shutoff valve, the shut off is within reach standing beside the truck. The tank is actually offset in the bed by about 6 inches, and the shut off is right there within easy reach. I did read the appropriate and relevant parts of NFPA rules repeatedly.

As for there being a "professional" anywhere around...sorry. Nobody does conversions around here. Even the propane retailer that used to do them stopped and no longer has technicians trained to do it. The manager at the propane place did a checklist of all the items I had to have to be compliant, from materials to hose choice, etc, and it's done right, according to him, but he doesn't do conversions.

As for the cutoff, no, I don't want to change the valve... it's such a pain to have to empty the tank... and once it's emptied, it's immobilized, because it's propane only. I just want to add another cutoff by the tank in case of something getting broken , and just turning off the key cuts off the fuel. Thanks for the PN... I missed that somehow.
Author:  65CrewCabPW [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 1:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
This is how the truck idles... With the new cam.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxyx_ACTikw
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